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Member Since: Feb 28, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Alexey

Point Rank: # 648
Total Points: 1,142
Last Year: 88
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alexey been climbing?










Contributions


All 538 | Routes 38 | Areas 7 | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 157 | Posts 28 | Stars 163 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Crack of Doom (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: I did not know that "Crack of Doom" has also biblical meaning
Crack of Doom is an old term used for the Christian Day of Judgement

ouvirmusica.com.br/the-tiger-l...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : Supplication (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: the second pitch has different name. It called "Intersanctum" and done by Dan McDevitt around 2010


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Spaghetti Western (5.11) : Photo
By: Alexey When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: good catch by photographer. Does not look like staged.
good that no one injured, cheers


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Vendetta (5.10b)
By: Alexey When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: try to do it at day light..
By the end of p2/3 the crack just kept getting narrover and narrover ;-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Mist Trail Boulders : ... : Cedar Eater (V5)
By: Alexey When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: directions from ST tread
supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...
whitemeat:
You are on the mist trail, and you are before the bridge that takes you to the granite steps. There is a part where you drop down a hill and you come across a big mossy overhang thing on the left side. This big roof/overhang will attract you because you are a climber! Every time i walk by I think, wow, that would be cool... There might even be chalk on the base.. Right across fr... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Crack of Doom (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Chad's trip report from 2012
supertopo.com/tr/Into-the-womb...

and couple of Peter Haan quotes from other ST treads :

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

I did maybe the 4th ascent of The Crack of Doom back in 1972 with a newcomer from the Northwest, Mark Fielding (sp?). It is an incredible route, extremely burly looking; you feel quite serious doing it.

The first pitch is a very steep bla... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Crack of Despair (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Higgins at the crux of the route ( from 1972 c...
Tom Higgins at the crux of the route ( from 1972 climbing mag)



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Crack of Despair (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: We did not link the pitches.
P2 - OW pitch consists from two sections - 5-6 inch ow and higher up 9 inch flare. Flare is the crux of the route and hard for the grade.
On p3 I was trying to get into secure chimney system to avoid to go for unprotected outside.
After taking off my helmet and chest harness with the gear- I still was not able to pass-throuh after fighting for inches more than half-hour. I am relatively small and had no problem on Harding slot


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 32 - Elephant Rock : Crack of Doom (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route second time and figured out more about discrepancy on Reid topo for for P3 and the way we actually climbed both times entering in the "narrows" of P3 [ same way as Bryan's description here on MP]
On Reid topo the end of p3 show two blocks with rating 5.8 and 5.9+ . Those two blocks is outside of the chimney and basically thin/hand cracks a pound those blocks. You can do it - if instead of entering "narrows" - traverse out of the chimney out- avoiding last 25 feet of tight c... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Crack immediately right of ... (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: there is second pitch continuation. Face climbing. Line of bolts goes ~100 feet above the top of pitch one.
Did not climbed it, but Dan rated it as 11a


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Jardine's Hand (5.11a)
By: Alexey When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: two distinct cruxes: first just after the slings in the middle - overhanging finger crack and second two face moves closer to the end - where crack disappears for ~8 feet


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Peter Pan (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This time we link p1 with part of the p2 and belay at the beginning of the wide splitter ( the place which Reid book call the top of p2.) I had idea to make the second pitch to the top of the pinnacle, but stop 15 feet short at the bottom of the final chimney with block and belaying there since last 15 feet can cause a lot of rope drag.
5.7 chimney hard, but secure and it lower part protected with #9, middle part with #4 BigBro


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Peter Left (5.10b)
By: Alexey When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: This time I link p1 and p2, but next time I would make it in two pitches instead, to make rack smaller.
If you not linking p1 and 2, you can take just 2#4 and one #5.
The crux of the route for me was also reaching the flakes, and than fighting for security in the upper flare which was very tight for me to be fully in, but not as tight to force me into layback it.
We were lazy to bring second rope and climb with 80m. - this works on rappel if you use intermediate bolts ( without r... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Golden Years (5.12c)
By: Alexey When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: Hi k-man, welcome to Mountainproject!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : The Crucifix (5.12b) : Photo
By: Alexey When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Great Dan's photo, great climbers and great pitch, one of the best in the Valley wide hands [blue camalot] pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Mecca Lite (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: yes, supertaco sport book is worst ever. Just made by left foot.
the good Mecca map and topos in Reid selected guide , 1998 edition

amazon.com/gp/search?index=boo...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windfall (5.11a)
By: Alexey When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: those " decently solid trees" is the time bomb.
Once I came up with bolt kit, but did not have time to drill.
Please consider to replace the slings crap with bolts


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Bridalveil Falls East (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: FA Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
In 1964 Frank Sacherer and John Morton climbed the overhanging jamcrack to avoid the short aid section which is the Midget Chimney pitch.

This late 50th early 60th route had good clean and hard chimneys and hard moves around chock stones.
Route finding is easy if you follow the huge chimney system from bottom to top. Only start of first pitch is about 20 feet right from the chimney and than 100 feet up it merge with main chimney. First and last pitches... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 16 - The Owl : Owl Roof (5.12c) : Photo
By: Alexey When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: what a great photo ! candidate for front page of new Yosemite free climbing book


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick, Left (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: stelar route, calories burner


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Alexey When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: my 80m rope was fully stretched on first rappel (p5,6) and last rappel ( p1)
Better to take two ropes. with 70m you have to down-climb twice.
it is easy to link p2,3 and p4,5


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Dr. Fun Time (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: My friends think that I overrated quality of the route.
A lot of loose rock, danger for belayer if he/she directly below the line, bad pro in the bottom part, and moving flakes on the upper parts. True, but the climbing moves are good!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Steppin' Out (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Until memory fresh from yesterday:
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save #6 for upper part .
This time the angry ants was above belay tree. we move out belay below the trunk.
The tree is almost dead.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 29 - Cream : Cream (5.11a)
By: Alexey When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Until memory fresh from yesterday:Left side in all the way from the crux.
Nice to have 3#4 , 3#5 and 2#6 to avoid pushing camalots. Save one #5 for upper part.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 17 - This and That Cliff : This and That (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: climbed it recently again- felt very hard for 10a (I did not lay back tzo)
#4 camelots works better than #4 Friends


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