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Alex midway up TCT.  Photo by Kim Caovan


Member Since: Apr 20, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Alexander Nees


Point Rank: # 834
Total Points: 776
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alexander Nees been climbing?










Contributions


All 500 | Routes 45 | Areas 6 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 66 | Posts 56 | Stars 193 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : The Maze District : The Mother and Child : Child Tower (5.9 A1)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Cool info, thanks for posting! I am a bit confused though; are these towers in the Orange Cliffs unit of GCNRA? There are no permanent anchors or hammering allowed in this area, but it looks like both this route and the one on the Mother Tower involved the installation of permanent anchors and/or hammering...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Fearless First (5.8)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: If you actually stay out of the cracks and follow the bolt line, this feels a lot more like 10- to me than a 5.8. It's thin and tenuous in several sections and a bit polished too. Fun route, but I think it's a sandbag at 5.8.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : 2-fer (5.10-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: Really enjoyed these routes... led the left, then TR'ed the right. Left-hand way felt like a short 5.10- crux, right-hand had a longer 5.10+ crux that seemed well-protected by the two bolts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : RSG (5.10a)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: This is an outstandingly good face route... the best of the ones I've done here.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Rudimentary Extraction (5.5)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: This one is well worth the scramble to get over to the base if you're looking for an easy route... very unusual to have a good crack climb at such a moderate grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Eagle Plume Tower : Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South... (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: My ascent of this route years ago has really stuck with me as one of my most memorable climbing days ever. This is the best line on the best tower in the Valley of the Gods. It has some great climbing on pitches 2, 3, and 4. It also has some terrible rock on Pitches 1, 2, and 3, but I think that all the climbing 5.9 and up has good gear. Approach this route with respect and the expectation of some do-not-fall situations, and it will reward you with an incredible day.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Motion Fascination (5.11)
By: Alexander Nees When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: Sounds like this is the same thing as the route named "Pillar 2"?


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Photo
By: Alexander Nees When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Sure looks like Satisfaction Guaranteed to me....


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Three Blocks (5.11-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Fun route! The bottom is easier than it looks, the top is harder than it looks. (The middle is exactly how it looks.)


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : People are Poodles Too. (5.10-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: This route has some easy crack climbing at the top and bottom, with about 3 feet of horrendous, greasy, shallow, flared, awkward climbing in the middle. Ugh.
It's not actually as bad as all that, but I found it very awkward and won't hurry back to do it again. Top-roping the face to the left is fun though; good slabby face and seam climbing. Better than this route, I thought!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Short, Cupped Hands (5.9+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: ... if you climb it barefoot?


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Easy access even with a low-rider Civic. There's a good gravel road that gets you within 100 feet of the formation.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky
By: Alexander Nees When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: Depends on what part of the White Rim you are trying to get to. In general the road is in good shape... it's been a dry fall. Clearance is way more important than 4wd if the road is dry; a 2wd truck is a better choice than a Subaru or the like. 2wd truck will probably get you down Shaffer and as far as Chip and Dale, Airport, and Washer Woman/Monster Towers, or down the Mineral Bottom Road to Moses and Taylor Canyon. If you're trying to get to Monument Basin, I wouldn't go without ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.10+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Wow! This route is the whole desert tower experience rolled up in 3 pitches. Splitter, chossy, sublime, and funky all at once. Pitch 1 is some prime desert choss, with flaky rock but good pro and fun jams. Pitch 2 is an awesome beautiful splitter with a couple good rest stances. Pitch 3 is incredibly exposed, with wide funky climbing, sketchy pro, and incredible geometry. I would highly recommend this to strong visiting climbers who only have time for one tower and want the full spectrum o... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Carter Route (5.9+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: MUCH better than it looks from the ground. The bottom 20 feet is soft but not too bad, and the rest is on fine rock with fun climbing. The anchor is bomber, the cacti are gone... maybe this has cleaned up since the original, fairly negative description was written, but it's now quite a nice climb. Looks wide but doesn't actually need anything larger than a #1 C4.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Luhr's Route aka Right Dihe... (5.9)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Good climbing, with excellent rock. Don't know if it's cleaned up since the original description was written, but this is a really nice climb now.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Steppin' On it (5.9+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: Great crack! It's actually #3 Friends the whole way. If you have those, bring them, since they will fit the best. I would recommend bringing a single finger-sized cam to protect the bottom (I used a 0.4 C4). Without it, you're probably 30 feet off the ground in blocky terrain before getting gear.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Sweet Sunday Serenade (5.9)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: Very nice, moderate, granite multi-pitch climb... a rare bird! Worth it for the second pitch alone, which would be a standout even in Yosemite. The route-finding on the third pitch is weird: I had trouble finding a direct line from the Sundeck to the "correct" 5.9 crack left of the main Sun Dancer dihedral, and wandered back and forth a lot. Also, there's an optional short thin finger crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, just right of the main crack, that offers the best 10 feet of climbing on ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : OW (V2)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Ouch! There's calcite or something inside the crack that can really tear you up if you're not taped or very careful. Great practice for hand/fist stack and levitation technique... it's both in a corner and short, so it's not too hard at the size.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Dihedral (5.8)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: This can be easily and naturally jammed as well as laybacked. I jammed it, since I was bouldering with no pad and wanted the security of jams instead of laybacking. It's basically all wide-hands to fists, super solid, good practice for that size.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Chimney (5.7)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: I guess you could call this an "incipient chimney". I.e. it'll be a chimney once the pillar that currently plugs it falls out. There's a crack system on either side of the plug. You can climb either crack independently at around 5.7/5.8.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Some fun, short cracks here. I don't think it's necessary to bring a rope up to this cliff. The climbs are no more than about 15-20 feet tall, so they are easily boulder-able. Maybe if you were coming here to learn crack climbing skills, a rope would be useful... but it's not a great venue for that anyway.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area : Bullet Hole Cliff Band : Fingers (5.7+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: New, solid modern bolts and hangers have been installed. Not by me, though, but good on ya to whoever took the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Round-Up (5.11a)
By: Alexander Nees When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Great climb; I'd say it has a single hard move that's 5.10+. The rest is much easier, and there's good gear the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: This climb is amazing. For the whole experience, it's definitely one of the best towers I've done, maybe the best. Castleton's North Face or Fine Jade still win for actual quality of climbing though, I think.

  • **Single Rope Beta***
Every single guidebook and topo tells you to bring 2 60M ropes, but I don't know why, it's completely unnecessary. To reinforce Monty's comment from 2009, you can easily rap Pale Fire in 4 single-rope rappels starting from the shoulder. This is an awesome descent... more >>


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