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Rock Climbing Photo: Gyroscope (photo: Bryan Wilson)


Member Since: Jun 29, 2012
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Alex Bury

Point Rank: # 340
Total Points: 2,028
Last Year: 295
Last 30 Days: 1
45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Bury been climbing?










Contributions


All 832 | Routes 99 | Areas 10 | Photos 151 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 257 | Stars 160 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Slab Central (V0+)
By: Alex Bury When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Nice post Randall. Zero's don't get much better than this one. Earns three stars in Oceans Eleven.
Fifteen Years, Slab Central, Sunkissed, and Peerless Plates are my first-timer faves.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: I finally had a chance to come back and take a second look at this thing, and I'm happy to report its good-to-go. Solid clips and a bomber anchor.

I will say that it feels a bit ridiculous to take heat from the genius who bolted the cobble shown above (in our most popular zone, no less). But such is the way of the internet.

I think Lost Trout will prove to be a very popular line, and the name strikes me as quite apt. It's a worthy addition now that it&@P... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the second bolt: it is a lot closer to that ledge than I would have liked, but the draw hangs free when clipped/loaded.

Neither of the first two bolts could actually go where I initially wanted. In the pic you can see my chalk dot, up and left, where I'd originally chosen, until a few hammer taps encouraged me to look elsewhere. The hammer sung like it was Yosemite granite (by Wheeler standards...) over that ledge, so I compromised and went with that.

I... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Silent Mind (5.11b)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: After losing the blocky undercling down low and a couple pieces off the crux, this route's in pretty solid shape. It's worth mentioning that the original line ends at a jug just beyond the anchor (many opt to skip the last few moves with a super reachy clip at the shuts).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Silent Mind (5.11b) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Cole Gibson reaching for the last clip on Silent Mind.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : South of the Trout Farm (5.9+)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Bunk rings
Bunk rings


Aside from being very thin, these rings have not been welded into a closed loop. They are actually ajar at the connection, and produce a sharp, rope-damaging edge. Safe and proper hardware is rule #1.

I encourage people to contact me if they have any questions. I think new routes at Wheeler are great, Odgers and Becchio have done a fine job contributing new routes recently. But if you aren't sure, don't just bolt it and leave us wi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Two weeks back we noticed some bolts had sprouted left of Trout Farm. I gave the rig a whirl and enjoyed the climbing but was disappointed in the anchor, and the fact that this new line shared a bolt with Trout Farm. A new low bolt was also close enough that it could be used to avoid TF's unprotected start.

When new-routing, using hardware that is safe and proper is the first step. Respecting other people's lines, other user groups, and the area in genera... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Sick Boy (5.10)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Sick Boy is a quality line on mostly good rock. Up high there are a couple of those classic 'breadloaf' style holds, as found on Danger Boy. One or two features still feel like they might come off, so heads up. My favorite of the new ones so far.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Recovered a stuck cam today 7.23, send me a message to get it back (name the brand/size).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: It's funny how much ire is produced by these pics. This one's actually a parody, and still drawing the snooty comments.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Boom Boy (5.10d)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: I had a good time watching the guys finish this thing up on Sunday, and I got a lead in after they had all ran their laps. It's a fun route, is well bolted, and includes a crux on bullet hard rock. The upper section includes a bit of the obligatory Wheeler choss, but overall it's a good addition. Great work guys!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : South of the Trout Farm (5.9+)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: On Sunday I noticed a new line of bolts just left of Trout Farm, and gave the rig a go to see what it's all about. I do think it may have been possible to bolt an independent line, to the left, but the new line does share a bolt with Trout Farm. And the new low bolt will likely change the way people climb Trout Farm as it can be clipped to avoid the unprotected start. The anchors also include a set of rings which are absolutely unfit for climbing applications; they ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : The Hideout : Green Lotus (V3)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: I'm stoked to get more of a consensus going on with these problems. Thanks for contributing, Jon! I encourage others to put their 2ยข in as well.
Green Lotus was really the first problem I established here; the first move was always pretty demanding. It's also a big, reachy dynamic move so folks under 5'10'' might find it especially tough.
Such a cool little zone, it'@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Floyd (5.7)
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Floyd is an adventurous multi-pitch outing on the leftmost side of the wall. The technical crux is likely 20 feet off the ground, but the main challenge lies in the anchor building and route finding required to complete the route.
There is clearly an opportunity to rappel on the second pitch, but I haven't tried it (we walked off). Rapping might be less involved than the extra 150' of scrambling plus walk-off. Bring two ropes (or a 60m tag line) if you&@P... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Taken today, June 16, while trying to gather a decent image for the Floyd topo. Floyd climbs through the broken left side before gaining the buttress.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: There's an active bee hive right of the platform, about fifteen feet up (as of June 16). Climbers bouldering the traverse will come closest, so heads up.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Diamondback (V7)
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The Pit Viper boulder's been getting a lot of attention recently (mainly by Tim King, Niko G, and Ray Martin) and I'm stoked to contribute this problem. In the end this boulder will likely deserve its own page.

I put this problem up on Saturday, and by Sunday it had a couple repeats. The upper holds have broken twice already, so expect the problem and the grade to fluctuate as things settle.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Whiplash (V11)
By: Alex Bury When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice work Pablo! I knew I should have skipped breakfast the other day. Would have been great to watch this go down.





Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Black Wall Traverse (V2) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: Kelly Lindsay and Darren Odgers cruising the traverse.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Dinky Pinkies (5.10d PG13)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Poison Oak is all over this crag, and pulling the rope off Gnome Fingers will almost certainly drop your line right in it. That said, it can be avoided to an extent.
From the Gnome Fingers start, scramble down and around to avoid the clump and reach Dinky Pinkies.
The creek is currently running well so its possible to wash off on the way out.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Gnome Fingers (5.10b)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: A fantastic finger crack in a beautiful setting.
This crag has that special magic that some of our remote and historic cliffs have, but with relatively easy access.

Gnome Fingers is about 10 feet shy of being an all-star area classic. Tucker/Steele certainly gave it full stars. Climbers looking for an extra challenge might consider including Dinky Pinkies (10+ PG).

FA credit here is murky. Clifford/Roland are credited with the Gnome Fingers FA but Amos tells me he doesn't recall the ascent. Am... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: More info/routes/pics coming soon.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Gnome Fingers (5.10b) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Justice Holloway following Gnome Fingers (10b) via Dinky Pinkies (10+ PG).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Dinky Pinkies (5.10d PG13)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: For leaders looking for a bit more challenge than the standard Gnome Fingers, this version makes things more interesting. Sequency moves over small stoppers lead to some make-or-break moves getting into the upper crack proper.
A clump of poison oak stands between the Gnome Fingers start and Dinky Pinkies; tread carefully.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Gnome Fingers (5.10b) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Finishing on Gnome Fingers (10b) , after the Dinky Pinkies (10+) PG start.


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