Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Gyroscope (photo: Bryan Wilson)


Member Since: Jun 29, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Alex Bury

Point Rank: # 363
Total Points: 1,798
Last Year: 157
Last 30 Days: 1
32 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Bury been climbing?










Contributions


All 692 | Routes 90 | Areas 9 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements | Comments 103 | Posts 190 | Stars 148 | Ratings 19
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : The Hideout
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to everyone for doing a great job helping to incorporate this area and using it responsibly. I run the Pratt/Fox trail loop every other day and am often stoked to see people on the boulders. I've only had to pick up trash twice and have never come across stashed pads, etc.
When I established this area I wasnt sure how much use it would get, given the mandatory 40 minute hike. It's great to see it being appreciated.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Crystal Pools (5.9)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
Crystal Pools was completed in December of 2015 by myself and Chad Parker. I initially led up the route to establish the anchor, and we made several trips back after that to finish things off. All bolts are high quality, half-inch stainless
.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : ... : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Such a cool shot.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So it was a low start? Interesting! Now Im really wanting to drive up there and try this thing out (from the regular start, largely because Bob made it look so damn easy...).


Makes sense now. Pretty much how I remember it, except you guys are stepping on the bulge below the Pardon My Friench jug.
VVVVVVV


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Velocity Boy (5.11c)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For a while I'd been using a sequence at the start that was more like 12a. But I eventually found better beta that felt the grade; proper footwork will help you get a foot on the big blocky hold, and then its a wrap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I think Carlos' other variation included all the proper beta for the hands; twin gastons to the crimp, then the Dissing Euros bucket. But at some point, he walked his feet WAY out left and up and was pretty much sideways. It looked really improbable, but sort of cool. Perhaps an easier variation to Frenchman's Worst Nightmare. Looking forward to the video.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There's definitely some confusion lingering on this part of the boulder. I think it's likely that this problem is Frenchman's Worst Nightmare.

Frenchman's has never made sense to any of us and we always figured it was broken. Maybe it's not? Sean and I watched Carlos climb what seemed sort of like Frenchman's, but his version included some funky footwork on the shelf below and, I think, a drop-knee on the Pardon My French jug.
Either way, it's cool to see Pine drawing in out... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : South Face (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 'Crack of noon' start.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Oct 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Classic problem, classic angle....


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Oct 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Still one of my absolute Pine Mountain favorites.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Wadka (5.7 R)
By: Alex Bury When: Jul 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: FA Yvon Chouinard, 1980.
Thanks for posting, Chad. Let's rope up soon.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10)
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great work guys!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Curry Village : ... : Circuit Breaker (5.11b V2)
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun problem and worth the short hike up. Low crux with a heady topout. Im told the line just left goes at 5.12.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Boss Man (5.9)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Mike's a hip guy, it can't be helped. The route is visible in the top photo, it's the right-leaning crack directly above.
This climb was first done about fifty years ago.
Tex Bossier was putting up lines all over the place in the 1960's, and he was a local pioneer during this period as well. He and Yvon Chouinard were primary explorers of formations throughout our hills, completing ground-up first ascents and opening entire new areas. Some of these routes are now area classics. This one sort o... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'm an Ojai local as well as a route developer here at Wheeler. Sean's my homie and Jon is a good friend of mine. Sam I just met but he seems like a nice dude. I'm not going to get drawn into any debate regarding the route, but there are a couple things I want to say.

You guys picked the worst rock in the whole friggin county to mess around with. A lot of work (by Matthew and also Jon) went into making sure people are careful and considerate, especially in that exact location. In light of that... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Black Wall Traverse (V2)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: "This year's winter storm created a sandbar at the base of the Sespe Gorge. I cleaned vegetation to make a path along the bottom of the cliff.
The route starts at the Tree Root, goes under the platform, around the cave and all the way to the end of the wall under an oak tree...with the crux friction slab between the Ending Crack and the Pipe Cleaner, V2. After much practice, I completed the climb on 2/27/15. Try it ! It is great!"

-Trad Bob


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Lost in the Sespe (5.7+ PG13)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
This climb was reestablished in February 2015.
The ascent was in response to a line of bolts that recently appeared on the wall, terminating at a sport anchor mid-face. I led past the hardware, placing my own gear, and completed the line to the huge ledge above the corner. A second pitch took us to the rim, where we walked off the back. I returned a few days later and removed the bolts while on rappel.
Black Wall is a historic trad venue. It's important we respect this place an... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : The Frond (5.10) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 'The Frond' is the striking aréte. A belay can be constructed at its base, which is reached by following a trail up a sloping ramp.
'Silver Carpet' climbs the direct line on the face to the left.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Biome (5.10b)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
'Biome' was cleaned on rappel and then led from the start. It was done on gear as a serious, R rated lead.
A bolt has since been added up high to reduce the chance of ground fall.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Fern Dust (5.10a)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
The base was harder to reach when 'Fern Dust' was done, and I rapped the dirty groove adjacent to get to the start. Ergo, the ascent didn't earn ground-up stripes, but the fa went down first try without further notable tactics.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Indian Paintbrush (5.8 PG13)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
This was the first climb done in the area, and was so scruffy it barely looked climbable. But its position above the meadow was great and the place in general picture perfect, and I would sometimes hike up and top rope it by myself. Eventually I was able to get others to come check it out and, after some cleaning and a handful of ascents, it started to look like a reasonable lead. There was even a cool boulder problem start directly beneath the ribs.
Since then it's been led a b... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Fiddleneck Aréte (5.7 R)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
This scruffy line was done onsight, ground-up. The only real gear placed was a micro cam, low on the aréte.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : The Frond (5.10)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
'The Frond' was done onsight, ground-up. Natural features allowed the route to go bolt-free.
It would've been easy to rap down the route, clean it, and then lead it. But with the route's striking aspect and the adventurous tradition of the area, a ground-up attempt was in order. Plus it's a short route, and I wanted to get the most out of it.
Opportunities for gear at the start were encouraging but prospects above were unknown. I had my drill on a tagline in case there wasn't ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Silver Carpet (5.10b)
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dev. Notes:
'Silver Carpet' was completed onsight, ground-up. Drilling was done on lead, with removable bolts being used to protect the first ascent. The route has since been equipped with high quality stainless.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Upper Foothill (The Hideout... : Silver Carpet (5.10b) : Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Silver Carpet climbs the tall face in the center of the photo. The start is hidden by the oaks, but the crux at the left-leaning seam is clearly visible.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!