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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Alex A When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: If you did it that long ago why was it not in the Extremist guide or the Extremist guide 2, I did it a longtime ago, and named it, think it's BS you did it, and did not blow your horn, by putting it in the guide, and it was not in your notes for the new routes for the new guide book, better to be in CO, and doing new routes to me and 1st ascents vs doing the same climbs over and over,
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cottage Rock : The Frigate : Code of the Sea (5.12a)
By: Alex A When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW Dave 5.12a is a sandbag, even for D.L. would say 5.12c/d, vary thin and technical
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Alex A When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, The DLFA did not do the 1st ascent, was done by Alex Andrews and Pete Cleveland,
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: Alex A When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun, easier climb, that makes you think,
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Acid Rock (5.12a) : Photo
By: Alex A When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Linn Hill, had a lot of trouble with this move,
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Alex A When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little history why the the area was closed, #1 there was graffiti Fuck Aid put by a aid route, in a place were it never rains, #2 carpet pieces, and old car mats were left under the overhang for bouldering, it was great place to boulder on a rainy day, #3 there was a couple of pieces of fixed trad gear left in the route #4 there was a top rope set up left at the top of the a route, this what the amateur biologist found, I think it was all the factors, it was not just t... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c)
By: Alex A When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One the safest 5.12 leads in the park, my only 5.12 lead at the lake, but not clean, it was closed so after, never got the redpoint,
they say this route got 1 to 2 letter grades easer, after sticky rubber came out,
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : Jackson Creek Dome
By: Alex A When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions are WRONG, cannot access from 507, gate is closed,(5/23/09) need to access from 502, come from Jackson Creek campground, drive till you can see the dome, the road makes a right turn, at the turn there's parking.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Infa-Red Riding Hood (5.10a)
By: Alex A When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another bolted crack, whats up with that, overrated, 10a if you're a sport climber who never climbed a crack, more like 5.8+/9- in the real world.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag
By: Alex A When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's SB as well, to bolt a crack. Sorry, but they're morons, to bring crack climbs to down to the sport climber's level. Have some balls and learn how to place gear. In a lot of places these would be chopped, along with the heads you the bolters. Bolts are fine wgere there is no pro.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Alex A When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think SB as well, to bolt a crack, sorry but there morons, to bring crack climbs to down to the sport climbers level, have some balls and learn how to place gear,
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall : Dance with Destiny (5.12b)
By: Alex A When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So has anyone onsighted this climb yet, to my knowledge, no one has,
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : The Beaver Wall : Frizzle Fry (5.12b)
By: Alex A When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route, FA Gary Braaten 92
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Leaping Lizards (5.10b)
By: Alex A When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorites, thin fingers and stemming, good pro but small wires,
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Location: WI : Photo (Copy)
By: Alex A When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, wow nice lead dude,
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Location: WI : Gibralter
By: Alex A When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add my name to the list, remember doing nice climbs there back in the 80's.
Alex Andrews
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Poker Face (5.9)
By: Alex A When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun warm up, bouldery start, if shorter.
Note on worn rap bolts: if people would not TR or lower off bolts they would last a lot longer, so add your own draws for TR, and rappel off, vs lower off, bolts would last much longer.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Out There (5.9 R)
By: Alex A When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Alex Andrews in the 80's 2nd ascent Peter Cleveland,
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Alex A When: Jun 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, if you are tall this is very hard, the roof of Fat City is easy compared to these, had to aid after 3 falls, 5.7+ a joke, my partner felt the same, WAS NO FUN, FYI climbed Fat City, and Cheapdate, Outlander, no falls, , The Pear is a great, but this exit is no way to end a great climb.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Alex A When: Apr 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, but 5.9+ is a sandbag more like 10a every 10 ft I thought crux was over, NOT!!!! great pro
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: Alex A When: Aug 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a good lead for someone leading at the 5.6 level.
The 5.8 finish is great.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Peyote Blues (5.12b)
By: Alex A When: Aug 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I remember when Rich Bechler did the FA of the route the left corner was off and it was 5.13, then using the left corner become the standard route, I think Eric Z, did it bare foot, he was getting bored climbing in shoes, doing a lot of the 5.12's and at least one 13 bare foot,
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Catenary Crack (5.9)
By: Alex A When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of mine, she had a friend with her who never climbed before, he onsight it, in a pair of slip on deck shoes, it was his 3rd climb of the day, then he tried Cop Out, my other friend, said if does it, he's going to quit climbing, he did not get vary far,
he was a gymnast,
I think Cop Out is easier, then Catecary,
It has changed, from the 1st time I did it, a hold broke off, if was still challenging, with the hold, but easier.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen
By: Alex A When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone climbed the cliffs above Evergreen Lake, they look good from the road,
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : T.S. Special (5.9 R)
By: Alex A When: Aug 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I did this one back 1984, it was 5.8 and no R rating, was one is dangerous, I broke my foot, be warned
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