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Member Since: Feb 1, 2012
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Alex Vidal
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Total Points: 67
Last Year: 43
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Vidal been climbing?










Contributions


All 244 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 20 | Stars 136 | Ratings 42
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : The B Boys (5.10+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun stem problem and a little more sustained than I was expecting (though there is only one distinct crux). I think it would go on gear pretty easily. There is gear by all three of the bolts (in order - yellow Alien, RP, yellow/orange Alien, yellow Alien, hand-sized cam)... that said, I'm not complaining about having them there.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: I've rated this climb 9+ to maintain the local grade ethic, but in other granite areas like, say, Squamish... this climb could be 11a.

A 9+ testpiece and fairly graded for the Voo.

A #6 is nice to have but not mandatory.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: 3rd pitch protects a lot better than it looks from the bottom. No need for big gear, there is a good pin scar that takes a bomber offset nut and a bomber TCU which will protect you (below your feet) for the step across to the jams on the RHS of the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: My follower had to leave my beloved 0.5 x4 on the 4th pitch. If anyone gets it out, I can provide 12 tasty beers in exchange.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Indian Peaks Wilderness Are... : Mt. Bancroft : East Ridge Direct (5.5 M2-3 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: Tons of tat. If I had a knife, I would have cleaned up. Also, with skis, this appears to be pretty reasonable in sub 5 hours. The crux is super brief, but there is some other pretty cool mixed climbing on route if you seek it out. Super fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Hi Ryan,

The webbing/rings for the first pitch are on the tree under the Sick Flake. As of 4/9/2016, they are in good condition. I'd argue it's best to skip this belay and go to the bolts on top of pitch 2.

Alex


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: I climbed the .10 variation last night. I think it has better and more interesting climbing. It's more technical, but if you stick the correct sequence, it's less work than the 10a crux. Those well versed in the "Eldo dance" will probably execute it easily. I still, however, think, that it is probably a 5.10 pitch and not 5.9, but I don't have much grade sensitivity in this area.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : McRib (5.10)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Some deathblocks by the chains. I threw one at my belayer. He is OK, but please be careful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Sicilian (5.11+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I have been on this a couple times this season and recently someone pointed out to me that most of the original start "fell off," which has completely changed the character of this climb. Some crag speculation that it could even be as hard as 5.12- with the modified start? I can not comment on the increased difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: I liked this route but would note that it's probably a little more difficult for those with big fingers. There were several moves I had to complete without getting more than my tips in the crack. I'd call it 10b in this circumstance.

It's worth noting as well this route protects ridiculously well with 0.4-0.75 cams and offset nuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b/c)
By: Alex Vidal When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: I thought Parallels seemed a number grade harder than either pitch on Practice Wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: The protection on P1 leaves something to be desired. P2 is stellar, albeit a bit easier (even for me, at 6ft).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Let it Vee (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: There really aren't too many quality one pitch climbs of this grade in Eldorado. I thought this was quite fun and has a lot of interesting stemming between the cracks on the right and the corner. It is worth nothing that the detatched block (that a beginning leader might be tempted to place gear in) on the right immediately following the stump, moves a bit and will not take reliable protection despite its appearance. As soon as you pass this block, there is a solid single crack that will take a ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: If you really want to enjoy Fine Jade, be sure to do it directly following Honeymoon Chimney.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Key Hole (5.10a/b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I led this climb initially and felt a bit frantic when I realized I would have to utilize ringlock techniques on a measly 10a. I took a lap after to realize there are solid pods and constrictions for the ringlocks, making this one seem even closer to 5.9 if you are utilizing all the opportunities for rests, good feet, and good hands. There are solid stances for placing gear as a result. I'd call it an honest 10a and representative of the grade in most trad areas.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Matron (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: The most adventurous 40ft in rock climbing. Begin by tunneling up behind the chimney to place your first piece, next downclimb and re-enter the outside in true bombay squeeze chimney style. Fight to your first piece, place another, and run it out on easy terrain to the chockstone.

4 star classic.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Pooh Corner (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch. For P1, the perfect rack is 2-3 of #1, 2 ,3 C4s. No bigger gear is required.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Currant ArĂȘte (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch, tainted only by the ease of climbing on to the left and right 5.9 routes.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Probably one of the best moderate alpine routes anywhere. We did the direct start, which does have a substantial run-out gaining the crack system above. The 5.7 moves on the second pitch of the direct, as I found them, were steep and wet with PG-13 gear placements (shallow, in bad rock, or with best 3/4 cam lobe engagement). The climbing on the headwall is well-protected and fun. I brought: 1 half rope, 5 offset nuts, 6 alpine draws, and a 1, 2 mastercam, doubles 0.5-1, and a 2. I only placed t... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Cat's Cradle (5.8+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Awkward and strenuous but takes good gear. Might be hard to on-sight if 5.8... or even 5.9 is your limit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.9+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Bomber yellow Alien exists high and right in the flake before committing to the crux move. I found this to be substantially harder than other 5.10s in the area, but maybe I botched the sequence.

Probably the finest 5.9 handcrack around.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Horrendously hand-size dependent. As such, perhaps the 5.10b crux of my life (with #3 sized hands).

I did not enjoy this climb as much as I should have.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch : Tiptoe Slab (5.3 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The rap sling has been bootied again, but the downclimb is really quite easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Are We Not Men (5.7 PG13)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I may be a glutton for the obscure, but I think this is my favorite moderate at Happy Hour.

Relative to other climbs at Happy Hour, the climbing in continuous, there are interesting features, and there is an exciting 20ft+ runout on 5.7 terrain to keep things exciting. The roof moves (attacked directly) are cryptic at first, adding to the tasty flavor of this climb.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a fun romp, reminiscent of east face Flatirons excursions of the same grade-range: the major difficulties are encountered on the first pitch, and the rest is easy with short cruxes. The first pitch is quite polished, but the protection is adequate. I am guessing you move right at the pin to maintain the 5.6 grade.

Worth noting pitch three has a nice hand/finger crack variation that I wish would have lasted 200 ft instead of 30.

The descent is pretty benign and intuitive enou... more >>


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