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Member Since: Feb 1, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Alex Vidal
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Point Rank: # 9,294
Total Points: 37
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 202 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 21 | Stars 113 | Ratings 35
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Vipers for sale

Vipers for sale

Forums : FOR SALE / Wanted : ... : Post

Dec 16, 2015

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: Alex Vidal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I thought Parallels seemed a number grade harder than either pitch on Practice Wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Alex Vidal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The protection on P1 leaves something to be desired. P2 is stellar, albeit a bit easier (even for me, at 6ft).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Let it Vee (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: There really aren't too many quality one pitch climbs of this grade in Eldorado. I thought this was quite fun and has a lot of interesting stemming between the cracks on the right and the corner. It is worth nothing that the detatched block (that a beginning leader might be tempted to place gear in) on the right immediately following the stump, moves a bit and will not take reliable protection despite its appearance. As soon as you pass this block, there is a solid single crack that will take a ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: If you really want to enjoy Fine Jade, be sure to do it directly following Honeymoon Chimney.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Key Hole (5.10-)
By: Alex Vidal When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I led this climb initially and felt a bit frantic when I realized I would have to utilize ringlock techniques on a measly 10a. I took a lap after to realize there are solid pods and constrictions for the ringlocks, making this one seem even closer to 5.9 if you are utilizing all the opportunities for rests, good feet, and good hands. There are solid stances for placing gear as a result. I'd call it an honest 10a and representative of the grade in most trad areas.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Matron (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: The most adventurous 40ft in rock climbing. Begin by tunneling up behind the chimney to place your first piece, next downclimb and re-enter the outside in true bombay squeeze chimney style. Fight to your first piece, place another, and run it out on easy terrain to the chockstone.

4 star classic.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Pooh Corner (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch. For P1, the perfect rack is 2-3 of #1, 2 ,3 C4s. No bigger gear is required.


Location: CO : Leadville : Timberline Lake Basin : Tiger Cliff : The Left Side : Currant ArĂȘte (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch, tainted only by the ease of climbing on to the left and right 5.9 routes.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Probably one of the best moderate alpine routes anywhere. We did the direct start, which does have a substantial run-out gaining the crack system above. The 5.7 moves on the second pitch of the direct, as I found them, were steep and wet with PG-13 gear placements (shallow, in bad rock, or with best 3/4 cam lobe engagement). The climbing on the headwall is well-protected and fun. I brought: 1 half rope, 5 offset nuts, 6 alpine draws, and a 1, 2 mastercam, doubles 0.5-1, and a 2. I only placed t... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Cat's Cradle (5.8+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Awkward and strenuous but takes good gear. Might be hard to on-sight if 5.8... or even 5.9 is your limit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Tool Or Die (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Bomber yellow Alien exists high and right in the flake before committing to the crux move. I found this to be substantially harder than other 5.10s in the area, but maybe I botched the sequence.

Probably the finest 5.9 handcrack around.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Beefeater (5.10b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Horrendously hand-size dependent. As such, perhaps the 5.10b crux of my life (with #3 sized hands).

I did not enjoy this climb as much as I should have.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Front Porch : Tiptoe Slab (5.3 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: The rap sling has been bootied again, but the downclimb is really quite easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Are We Not Men (5.7 PG13)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I may be a glutton for the obscure, but I think this is my favorite moderate at Happy Hour.

Relative to other climbs at Happy Hour, the climbing in continuous, there are interesting features, and there is an exciting 20ft+ runout on 5.7 terrain to keep things exciting. The roof moves (attacked directly) are cryptic at first, adding to the tasty flavor of this climb.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : The Nose (5.6)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a fun romp, reminiscent of east face Flatirons excursions of the same grade-range: the major difficulties are encountered on the first pitch, and the rest is easy with short cruxes. The first pitch is quite polished, but the protection is adequate. I am guessing you move right at the pin to maintain the 5.6 grade.

Worth noting pitch three has a nice hand/finger crack variation that I wish would have lasted 200 ft instead of 30.

The descent is pretty benign and intuitive enou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Alex Vidal When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: I don't find the first pitch run out to be too harrowing, it will take a smattering of marginal pieces which will likely keep you off the deck. However the beginning of the third pitch is frightening and potentially R rated with one piece between you and your belayer. Ballnuts potentially alleviate this problem.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Three Tiers (WI2+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday, and it is in surprisingly good condition given the overall dryness of the area. Makes for a fun, early season jaunt.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Pretty nice route with pretty good protection. The pin seemed reasonable, and there are two good small (#4ish BD) nut placements within close proximity (1ft and 3ft). Also, it is possible to get to the Cave Exit/Cheap Date options by climbing the original finishing pitch, up through the roof onto the slab, and then working left through some very moderate slab (runout).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a really nice climb and frankly the 5.8+ rating seems a little soft. The climb is generally well protected except the beginning of the 4th pitch (which is easy) and the 6th pitch with the traverse (the difficulty can be minimized by focusing on the good feet, instead of the "good" looking chalked hands up high). I think it's important to note that the piton more so flexes than wiggles. I'm still not overly interested in taking a fall onto it, however.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Initial Route (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Definitely worth doing if you have done all the other routes in the area. The squeeze is actually pretty fun. At 5'11" I thought the 5.9- rating given by the guidebook was about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)
By: Alex Vidal When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Generally I consider myself to be very good with creative Eldo gear, especially passive gear. However, I thought this one was a bit hard to protect... certainly adequate but definitely not without a bit of spice. 2-3 marginal RP placements and a "reasonable" 0 Mastercam protected the crux moves.

Based on the other people's posts, perhaps I am wrong?


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : The Bends (5.11b)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Probably easier than 11c for crack-enthusiasts. Very well protected though I found the 2nd bolt very awkward to clip if you are using the easiest technique for upward progress.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shimminy Cricket (5.9)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: A really fun pitch. I am not sure why there are bolts, but might as well use them if they are there. Seemed like there were protection opportunities nearby in all cases (though perhaps the exfoliating rock is the reasoning?). The move around the second bolt seemed like the crux, but I saw a good #2 placement to the right of the bolt and another smaller cam placement above the bolt near the "solution" hold.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Giant Dihedral (5.8)
By: Alex Vidal When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a fine trad line and not to be missed if you are in the area. The first pitch seemed kind of awkward, with reasonable protection opportunities in semi-questionable rock (be reasonably solid at the grade). The second pitch protects very easily and is not sustained (a good beginner's lead). The 5.8 section on the second pitch has bolts you can clip, so you really don't even need to be a 5.8 trad leader to tackle the second pitch.


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