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Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
Contact Alex Shainman

Point Rank: # 454
Total Points: 1,569
Last Year: 218
Last 30 Days: 134
52 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Shainman been climbing?










Contributions


All 556 | Routes 102 | Areas 10 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 126 | Posts 60 | Stars 177 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Central Cottage Dome - Nort... : New World Order (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: I climbed here 4 days ago and it's not quite that bad...but yes please climb here more and do some scrubbing and the routes will become even better! It's not Medlicott quality but it's pretty good, plus it's afternoon shade!

Read description for Central Cottage Dome and feel free to add other routes to the database to get more peopl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : The Quarry (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: On the first pitch, it's also possible to link the start past the pin and bolt back into Blankety Blank's upper P1 right facing flake/corner for a slight variation...and yeah, it's highly recommended not to take big falls on either these two routes/variations.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Mr. Slate (5.10d)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: This route would most definitely deserve another star and be as good as Fred if you didn't have to traverse left to Human Fright at that current 5th bolt and the rock is kinda crunchy in a couple spots, but it is a good long pitch nonetheless.

The contrived sensation will dissipate as you make some exciting moves up and right before you clip the second to last bolt. I thought the upper climbing is well worth feeling silly about attempting. Other than a 2" piece before the first bolt, placing an... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: Great route! The 3rd and 4th pitches are excellent!

Thanks for the bolt replacements!

Regarding the 4th pitch...
This pitch was first put up (bolted) basically as an aid ladder and for whatever their reason during the first ascent, they put the top anchor where it is in that chimney. I think that anchor should be relocated over the chimney at a chosen stance on pitch 5. Why?:
1) That belay anchor is basically a point of aid for the mega classic 4th pitch - those last moves would make for an e... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack, Direct Finish (5.10b/c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Mega classic finish for Pope's Crack BUT that good right hold you reach for over the roof unfortunately ain't gonna last much longer. Climbed it a few days ago. That hold flexes quite a bit. Major bummer :-(


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Blood of Christ (5.12b) : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Nice pic! Said hold as pictured is definitely gone. Changed the sequence for sure. You probably used to be able to pull straight up to the next holds from that, right?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Burning Bush (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Both bolts are still the original 1/4" threaded Rawl compression bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Blood of Christ (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Gear beta: A #12 BD Stopper, concave taper facing right, is a very reliable piece at the top...in my opinion.

Hadn't done this in 18-20 years. Definitely a little harder than the original rating, less a couple holds or something like that. A good short, powerful and techy route at the grade. For sure 12a, probably b. Main thing though, have a great belayer, keep your shit together and don't blow any clips, bust a hold, etc. I wouldn't put a whole lotta faith on that big aluminum head, alt... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : O'Kelley's Crack (5.11a) : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 9, 2016

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Comments: I love it that you have a previous (8/9 years ago) pic on here from when the start required a touch of aid for you...Nice natural progression man! Awesome!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Between Heaven and Earth (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 9, 2016

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Comments: THE "King Line" in Eldo.

Excellent effort, Eric!


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Out of Sight Boulder Area
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: This comment (rant) is in reference to the formation between the Out of Sight and PhD boulders...on its north face, specifically the Arete which is just to the left of the classic Unknown corner crack.

Who is the DOUCHEBAG who "tried" to replace the 1st and 2nd pre-existing compression bolts and apparently added a bolt higher on the right side of the arete? (the opposite (left) side of the Arete has another pre-existing compression bolt which was not replaced)

I say "tried" to replace because ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Purpose (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Gold standard "California 12b."


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Right Wall : Boots On The Ground (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: Great rock for sure! Reminiscent of Hueco Tanks in a way, with the smooth texture and the scalloped dishes and holes. A fun onsight challenge with no chalk on key holds since you need to go for it, especially at the start but above too. Nice addition!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 23, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the responses Darrell, I enjoyed the read!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Race With The Devil (5.11d R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Hi, I have a FA history question on this route. How was the first pitch bolt drilled? I'm 6' tall and with my left foot on the only good foothold (after busting out the hard crux start) that "stance" seemed way too low to hand drill that bolt. There is a creaky hold, left of the bolt, which could've been hooked. How'd he do dat?

Might as well ask this general question here...
How many routes at Suicide were bolted on aid (hooks).


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: I just did this route for my first time a couple days ago. It's an interesting and varied line with cool pockets and unique moves but on sometimes flakey rock and with lots of excitement! The first pitch is intense! It blew my mind for sure considering the year of the FA, comparisons to other similar graded routes of the same year and of course and as always the footwear! I read the preceding comments and even though I went straight up at the crux I was also asking myself how they drilled that b... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Willow Hole Area : The Super Dome
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the condition of the bolts (and critical holds) of the routes Warpath, The Mohawk and Sideburn?
Thanks in advance!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Atom Smasher Area : Timbuktu Towers
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the condition of the bolts (and critical holds) of the routes Pumping Hate and The Bates Motel?
Thanks in advance!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Really cool moves, but too bad that dihedral doesn't go all the way to the ground!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps the master-debaters of this thread topic have taken this discussion to the point of ad nauseam...laughable HA!

Picked a good time today to climb this fine route for my first time! Cool climbing! More reminiscent of maybe the South Platte or The Valley or Squamish...fun times! Classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Ouroboros (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a great line which climbs quite well. There are a lot of cool sections separated by really good rests and cruxy parts but no moves are anywhere as hard as the crux on Snake Watching. I found this route to be easier than the given grade but of course that's subjective.

After some thought, I have some opinions: I think the upper anchor should be moved down to where the last bolt is; that very last section detracts and is out of character from the rest of the route. There are st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Heads up on the crux start.... The other day we broke what was the end of the crux jug, just left of the second bolt. It broke from the force of a heel hook moving past it to stand up! That jug was very spider-web fractured and part of a very hollow, large time bomb of a flake which still exists. The hold that remains is now lower by 3" but smaller and squarecut. The very next hold just above is also very hollow. Belayer beware and consider wearing a helmet on all three of these routes! We were ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: For some added historical info...with Mr Ruckman's permission/suggestion, I added that first bolt approximately 15 years ago. I started noticing a trend in the late '90s with the receding "glacial" snow tongue, and this is such a killer route, especially in late season when it's totally dry. It was way more exciting before that bolt was there, when the snow wasn't....
Randy Farris should be included in the FA.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: I added a quicklink to each bolt and also tightened both bolts because the nuts were only finger tight...another common result of single link/ring "American-triangle" effect anchors. It's good to go now.


Location: CO : Action Commmitee For Eldora...
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone replaced the 2 lead bolts on the Eldo route Le Toit Direct (11+)??? I haven't been up there in 15 years. The 1st was one of those super short, '80s ring bolts and the other probably a late '70s, 1/4" buttonhead. Anyone...anyone????


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