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Is there any good gear or solid holds up here???


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 441
Total Points: 1,365
Last Year: 61
Last 30 Days: 21
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Shainman been climbing?










Contributions


All 476 | Routes 101 | Areas 9 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 101 | Posts 47 | Stars 171 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: If you're going up to do Doubius Graffiti, bring a wrench for the bolt on the arÍte. The nut is only finger tight as of yesterday. The leader can tighten from the stance. It's a 3/8" stud; a 1/2" wrench should be the one. The stud appears to be a carbon steel RedHead and a few threads are exposed, so don't overtighten it. May be a candidate for near future replacement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Did Ignition a couple days ago, probably had been 4-5 years. Heads up with the big, downward pointing flake between the last two bolts - it's WAY more expando with a nice vibrato than it used to be. I would no longer recommend putting ANY cam or nut in either side of it and only pull down, not out! Just sayin'! Just left of the bottom of the flake is a so-so horizontal med. nut placement but...just don't fall before the last bolt and tread lightly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Divine Sculptor (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: As of today, there were QD's on the 6 upper bolts. They seemed kinda tattered and maybe have been there for a while but we decided to leave them just in case...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : The Chameleon (5.12b PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Hands-down one of the BEST pitches of it's style/grade/length in the Park! Brilliant! There's really nothing "R" about it...PG-13 for sure (if you bring a double set of mixed-brand, techy cams from tips to 2" and good footwork, you will have options). Bitchin' techy sequences through the bolts and into the crack, then you eye up this arching traverse. With the above comments, there's no spoiler that there's some business near the end of said traverse so I'll just say that was the only section wh... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Jailhouse Rock : Iron Junkie (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Heads up as of 11/22/13:
The 4th to last bolt's nut is spinning off AND both the 3rd & 2nd to last fixed quicklinks (on the hangers) have unscrewed all the way and apparently have been loaded enough while open to bend and could not be finger-tightened...we did not have any tools that day.

On a good note, none of the multiple super hollow big blocks fell out on us. The starting hold at the beginning of the overhang, where a brick recently broke, is rather crunchy. Iron Junkie haha classic!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Any more recent news with possible NRG closures due to the gov shutdown? I've got a trip planned there tomorrow. Thanks!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Sting (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Wow what a bitchin' line, even though it's short and doesn't go through a roof! Powerful and bold but it's actually all there: 3 horizontals where 2 cams will fit in each (2x #3 Camalot and/or a #4 C4, Red+Yellow Aliens, #1+#.75 Camalots). At many newer sport areas this would be 12a or b, and have 4 or 5 bolts. I 2nd or 3rd not putting any gear in the start and just bouldering it out, I think it's safer. Using the crimp on the last move is definitely the way to go for me ... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bird's Nest : Ladies in Love aka: Lesbia... (5.12b/c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Cool climbing canvas to move on. Way easy for the 12+ grade I thought, Slang over in Chopping was harder. I don't understand why the anchors are so low...Should go to the top!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : The Shrub : Slang (5.12-)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Great route but hard for the 12- grade I thought (especially if you have a short wingspan I bet!)...Easy start to a powerful clip and then a V5 sequence, a good rest and cool 11- climbing to finish.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Magic Dagger (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The clipping biner on the long yellow runner at the crossover is worn halfway.... Sorry, I didn't have a spare biner to replace it.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Rusty Cage : Blackalicious (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Just a heads up...the 2nd bolt is potentially bad; it's all the way in the hole, spins and can no longer be tightened.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Mr Friendly (5.10c/d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: A big heads up as of today...the 4th bolt (3/8") is missing hanger AND nut. I strung a Stopper on the threaded stud. Don't fall! Also, the 5th bolt looked funky and loose but probably only needs to be tightened.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Elastic Man (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: The true Elastic Man does not traverse through the Pheasant, clipping its bolt. The real finish goes straight up to a separate anchor and takes good gear to protect the last move. A .75" cam in the overlap works perfectly. You can also place a .5" cam right of that. The first move is not that bad (unless you're short)...just don't blow it. Great route!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Daily Planet (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Classic short route for sure! On P1, I wonder if the first pin, a thin knifeblade, could be replaced with a lost arrow without it snapping off. It sure flexes quite a lot. P3 traverse is killer...the bad pun is on the potential death flakes at it's start (but the worst of the worst can be carefully negotiated). If you want something to do instead of the original Rhinestone Cowboy finish (12b, new bolts!), there is a new "4th" pitch finish which, albeit some flakey/crunchy layers, is a great addi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Polaris (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Polaris yesterday and deciding to offer some safety advisories for future ascents...

First off, this is a good line, great FA vision, challenging climbing and I imagine a monumental undertaking to prep, equip and clean. Kudos!

The exfoliated rock quality in a few places has some potential dangerousness. I will break it down and add a couple more heads-ups...

P1-3 are relatively safe. [edit 7/24/13 the fixed ropes have been removed] On pitches 1-3, a fixed line is clipped into anchor ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Hellboy (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Don't pull too hard on the flexing first big rail entering the route.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Bad Omen (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: A couple of the bolts could use an upgrade. The flake leading into the left leaning corner is quite loose. Killer sustained technical line!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (5) Bat Wall : Bloodline (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: The bees are back in town.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Grace (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Fixed draws on the first 3 bolts will probably be a nice addition, with a 8" chain on the second one. Getting to the anchor when there's dirt/debris and moist lichen on the shelf is fun...


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (6) Shield Wall : Short Straw (5.11a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Don't fall getting to the first bolt; no reliable pro and the rock is funky and the clip is high! Would be better if climbed more regularly; the upper half gets dirty but the climbing is good! Bring extra cams around the 0 TCU size.


Location: General Climbing : Name that Climb Dec 2011 : Post : Photo
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mark! Which route IS this???


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Space Mission (5.11)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Wicked good! Most classic long and hard double corner. I found bridging the start to be better (easier) than stemming right away...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Fun splitter after the crux. Painful start! Ouch!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Winter Sustenance (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: MEGA GOOD! SPLITTER!!!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Wondertwins (5.10)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2013

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Comments: Maybe will feel relatively hard for grade. Really cool line! Roof part is kinda like The Rostrum, pitch 5 simulator...


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