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Rock Climbing Photo: Is there any good gear or solid holds up here???


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 30, 2016
Contact Alex Shainman

Point Rank: # 506
Total Points: 1,368
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 494 | Routes 101 | Areas 9 | Photos 21 | Page Improvements | Comments 118 | Posts 46 | Stars 174 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Out of Sight Boulder Area
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: This comment (rant) is in reference to the formation between the Out of Sight and PhD boulders...on its north face, specifically the Arete which is just to the left of the classic Unknown corner crack.

Who is the DOUCHEBAG who "tried" to replace the 1st and 2nd pre-existing compression bolts and apparently added a bolt higher on the right side of the arete? (the opposite (left) side of the Arete has another pre-existing compression bolt which was not replaced)

I say "tried" to replace because ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Slap You Silly (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 14, 2016

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Comments: What a cool problem! Tried it yesterday for my first time. Got halfway up on my second try with my body on the left side of the arete...but then got totally shut down for lack of feet. After looking at these pics, do most people straddle the arete and bearhug all the way up?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Purpose (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Gold standard "California 12b."


Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Right Wall : Boots On The Ground (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: Great rock for sure! Reminiscent of Hueco Tanks in a way, with the smooth texture and the scalloped dishes and holes. A fun onsight challenge with no chalk on key holds since you need to go for it, especially at the start but above too. Nice addition!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 23, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the responses Darrell, I enjoyed the read!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Race With The Devil (5.11d R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Hi, I have a FA history question on this route. How was the first pitch bolt drilled? I'm 6' tall and with my left foot on the only good foothold (after busting out the hard crux start) that "stance" seemed way too low to hand drill that bolt. There is a creaky hold, left of the bolt, which could've been hooked. How'd he do dat?

Might as well ask this general question here...
How many routes at Suicide were bolted on aid (hooks).


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: I just did this route for my first time a couple days ago. It's an interesting and varied line with cool pockets and unique moves but on sometimes flakey rock and with lots of excitement! The first pitch is intense! It blew my mind for sure considering the year of the FA, comparisons to other similar graded routes of the same year and of course and as always the footwear! I read the preceding comments and even though I went straight up at the crux I was also asking myself how they drilled that b... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Willow Hole Area : ... : The Last Unicorn (5.11a R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Have the bolts on this route been replaced yet?
Thanks in advance!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Willow Hole Area : The Super Dome
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the condition of the bolts (and critical holds) of the routes Warpath, The Mohawk and Sideburn?
Thanks in advance!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : Atom Smasher Area : Timbuktu Towers
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know the condition of the bolts (and critical holds) of the routes Pumping Hate and The Bates Motel?
Thanks in advance!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Really cool moves, but too bad that dihedral doesn't go all the way to the ground!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps the master-debaters of this thread topic have taken this discussion to the point of ad nauseam...laughable HA!

Picked a good time today to climb this fine route for my first time! Cool climbing! More reminiscent of maybe the South Platte or The Valley or Squamish...fun times! Classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Ouroboros (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a great line which climbs quite well. There are a lot of cool sections separated by really good rests and cruxy parts but no moves are anywhere as hard as the crux on Snake Watching. I found this route to be easier than the given grade but of course that's subjective.

After some thought, I have some opinions: I think the upper anchor should be moved down to where the last bolt is; that very last section detracts and is out of character from the rest of the route. There are st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Heads up on the crux start.... The other day we broke what was the end of the crux jug, just left of the second bolt. It broke from the force of a heel hook moving past it to stand up! That jug was very spider-web fractured and part of a very hollow, large time bomb of a flake which still exists. The hold that remains is now lower by 3" but smaller and squarecut. The very next hold just above is also very hollow. Belayer beware and consider wearing a helmet on all three of these routes! We were ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: For some added historical info...with Mr Ruckman's permission/suggestion, I added that first bolt approximately 15 years ago. I started noticing a trend in the late '90s with the receding "glacial" snow tongue, and this is such a killer route, especially in late season when it's totally dry. It was way more exciting before that bolt was there, when the snow wasn't....
Randy Farris should be included in the FA.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: I added a quicklink to each bolt and also tightened both bolts because the nuts were only finger tight...another common result of single link/ring "American-triangle" effect anchors. It's good to go now.


Location: CO : Action Commmitee For Eldora...
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone replaced the 2 lead bolts on the Eldo route Le Toit Direct (11+)??? I haven't been up there in 15 years. The 1st was one of those super short, '80s ring bolts and the other probably a late '70s, 1/4" buttonhead. Anyone...anyone????


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Le Toit Direct (5.11d R)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone replaced the 2 lead bolts on this route? I haven't been up there in 15 years. The 1st was one of those super short, '80s ring bolts and the other probably a late '70s, 1/4" buttonhead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: If you're going up to do Doubius Graffiti, bring a wrench for the bolt on the arĂȘte. The nut is only finger tight as of yesterday. The leader can tighten from the stance. It's a 3/8" stud; a 1/2" wrench should be the one. The stud appears to be a carbon steel RedHead and a few threads are exposed, so don't overtighten it. May be a candidate for near future replacement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ignition (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Did Ignition a couple days ago, probably had been 4-5 years. Heads up with the big, downward pointing flake between the last two bolts - it's WAY more expando with a nice vibrato than it used to be. I would no longer recommend putting ANY cam or nut in either side of it and only pull down, not out! Just sayin'! Just left of the bottom of the flake is a so-so horizontal med. nut placement but...just don't fall before the last bolt and tread lightly.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Divine Sculptor (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: As of today, there were QD's on the 6 upper bolts. They seemed kinda tattered and maybe have been there for a while but we decided to leave them just in case...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : The Chameleon (5.12b PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Hands-down one of the BEST pitches of it's style/grade/length in the Park! Brilliant! There's really nothing "R" about it...PG-13 for sure (if you bring a double set of mixed-brand, techy cams from tips to 2" and good footwork, you will have options). Bitchin' techy sequences through the bolts and into the crack, then you eye up this arching traverse. With the above comments, there's no spoiler that there's some business near the end of said traverse so I'll just say that was the only section wh... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Jailhouse Rock : Iron Junkie (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Heads up as of 11/22/13:
The 4th to last bolt's nut is spinning off AND both the 3rd & 2nd to last fixed quicklinks (on the hangers) have unscrewed all the way and apparently have been loaded enough while open to bend and could not be finger-tightened...we did not have any tools that day.

On a good note, none of the multiple super hollow big blocks fell out on us. The starting hold at the beginning of the overhang, where a brick recently broke, is rather crunchy. Iron Junkie haha classic!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: Any more recent news with possible NRG closures due to the gov shutdown? I've got a trip planned there tomorrow. Thanks!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Sting (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Wow what a bitchin' line, even though it's short and doesn't go through a roof! Powerful and bold but it's actually all there: 3 horizontals where 2 cams will fit in each (2x #3 Camalot and/or a #4 C4, Red+Yellow Aliens, #1+#.75 Camalots). At many newer sport areas this would be 12a or b, and have 4 or 5 bolts. I 2nd or 3rd not putting any gear in the start and just bouldering it out, I think it's safer. Using the crimp on the last move is definitely the way to go for me ... more >>


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