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Member Since: Jan 14, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Alex McIntyre


Point Rank: # 1,478
Total Points: 416
Last Year: 114
Last 30 Days: 14
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex McIntyre been climbing?










Contributions


All 484 | Routes 17 | Areas 2 | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 202 | Stars 109 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : The Morgue (5.14a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: 2 days ago

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Comments: For what it's worth- the glued jug that marks the end of the crux has broken a couple times (once before I did it and then again later) and is now much less juggy. The route is still probably the same grade (~13d) but might be a little stiffer as it harder to recover after the crux for the top section. The conditions on the route matter a LOT- just a couple degrees or percent humidity hotter/more humid and the crux boulder problem gains V grades very quickly. The crux holds are sticky in very... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : The Worrier or the Warrior (5.10d)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Someone wrote "Not safe" in chalk at the base of this route, as of last weekend. Nothing looked particularly dangerous, but I didn't get on it so I could have missed something.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Dairy Queen (5.13b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: I think White Queen is 13a, Red Queen is 13b, and Dairy Queen is 13b/c. I haven't done Drag Queen or its sit start yet...

It seemed like Dairy Queen shouldn't be harder than Red Queen but having enough energy to pull the crux after being on the wall that long felt difficult. I did Red Queen first try and Dairy Queen took 8 or 9 goes to finish, all of which being one hangs at the crux move. Just my thoughts.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Jabberwocky (5.12b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: This one gets the full four stars and is a route I would travel to climb. Fantastic.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Hard Day at The Orifice (5.12b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Hard Day Direct (the left line of bolts at the finish) doesn't get a lot of traffic but is actually really good. Seems much harder than the OG finish in the chimney. Bring two draws and get on it!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing but more an incredible line up a side of the Fortress that doesn't get much action. The third pitch has some crazy exposure. We linked the last two pitches with no issues. The first belay anchor is what appeared to be two very rusty buttonheads (I think 1/4" but could have been 5/16") with SMC hangers- strange considering everything else on the climb was stainless 3/8" hardware.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Trapeze (5.11d)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: As I have now done everything in this section of the Beaver Wall I can confirm that neither the bolts on Sparky nor the bolts on Easy interfere with Trapeze. Instead of taking it to the Alley Oop ledge I traversed left along a handrail at the top of the corner on Trapeze and reached down to clip the anchors on Sparky Vision, as the slab to the ledge looked like 5.7 and I wanted to lower to clean. Trapeze felt about as hard as Easy on the Beaver did, which was quite unexpected and really shows ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Climb With A View (5.13)
By: Alex McIntyre When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: The bolts in question were either drop ins or self drives, as I am aware. According to the ASCA, both are considered to be dangerous bolts ( safeclimbing.org/education/dan... ). The second bolt in particular, which barely protects a fairly long run on some tensiony seam climbing, was incredibly rusty. It may have held some falls in the past, but for better or worse Climb With A View has seemingly fallen into obscurity in recent times and as far as I am aware the only people... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Climb With A View (5.13)
By: Alex McIntyre When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: David Adams and I went out a couple of days ago and replaced the first 3 bolts (the only independent ones). The old, while looking bad from the surface, were shockingly horrible. Bolt 1 was a pretty short taper bolt, and then the next two were only half an inch long when we unscrewed them- they didn't break, that was actually how long they were. All had SMC hangers. Continue to be aware of old hex head bolts on the mountain- they are full of sketchy surprises.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Aspen Trail Boulders
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for taking the time to document these boulders Matt! The pool of known bouldering in Tucson is finally expanding and gaining in quality. Psyched to get out here with you!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : 7 - Celebrity Cave : Lee Majors (5.14)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Currently, a combination of my own draws and CP's original project draws are hung on this route. Mine are the mixed draws in the first half; CP's are the Petzl Spirit dogbone draws in the second half. CP's draws have been hanging for at least 10 years. They have seen essentially zero to negligible sun and water runoff and appear to be brand new (down to the still-pliable rubber keepers); however, one I removed was pull-tested by Geir Hundal and failed at only 1900 pounds(a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : The Gallery
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Jake, I didn't take the nut and biner, but it's pretty absurd to think that a 1/2" stainless steel bolt that protects an entirely unnecessary near-horizontal rappel needs a backup and even more absurd to think that a nut there would hold should you somehow generate enough force to blow the bolt. If you leave gear that isn't welded in place it's going to be bootied, especially when it is completely unnecessary.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: A few years ago there was a bail biner on this route and I made it my mission to snag it and send the route in the process. I ended up aid soloing the route with a grigri and aiders to retrieve it and check out the holds. I came back later with a friend and managed to take a rather large fall from the leftmost point in the traverse up high and swung hard into the corner. I gave it another run but didn't get very far (it was the middle of July, ;long before I had figured out the "send... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: Geir,

I read Eric's comment wrong the first time to read "This is my problem with you" which would seem to fit with some correspondence we've had in the past on the topic. I've edited my reply accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 28, 2014

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Comments: I gave it zero stars. jbak gave it two. This one isn't very enjoyable, in my opinion. The movement isn't very interesting, the holds are basically razorblades (more so than almost any other holds on the Beaver Wall I can think of) and the line it takes isn't very inspiring to me. I do enjoy most climbing I do, but this one is pretty meh.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : The Plate (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: I climb this so that others don't have to.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Send It (5.12a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: I am going to disagree with Dave here and say that I really enjoyed this climb. It's been a couple years but I remember fun, technical climbing up the arete and face followed by cool dynamic sequences through the two roofs and a juggy slab to the chains. I did the right variation (staying completely on the steep overhang through both roofs and the top bulge). I remember seeing this listed somewhere as 12c, maybe the Sport Select guide? Regardless, I thought the climb was fun and a nice chang... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Luke, those are Peter Piek's project draws. The last set of draws he had up were stolen so he put up the Mambas with quicklinks to ensure that won't happen. They aren't permadraws and Pete will take them down when he sends. If you are worried about that runner I'd suggest talking to him about it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Definitely an under-the-radar classic. There's even some history- when I did it there were a couple bolts with bed frame hangers! The movement through the giant scoop is really cool.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Standard Route (5.6)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Why would you need both climbers to hang there for more than just a couple minutes?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: It's worth noting that you do not continue straight on the trail for very long after the first direction switch toward climber's right. There is a signed junction with another trail that continues straight and level around the side of Mount Olympus; instead, at this junction you take the trail leading uphill and climber's left. It's currently marked with a sign (in the middle of the trail) that reads "Private Property, stay on trail". I misinterpreted this and thought it was just a s... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Charadras (5.7)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This route is absolutely wild.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Special Brew (5.12)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This is probably my favorite of the original 3 routes at The Pub. I recommend double length draws on the first 2 bolts to minimize rope drag.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : The Pub Crawl [Var] (5.12+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This route may still be awaiting a second ascent. Get after it!

Update: And I hear that Rhyan Schefus has achieved the much coveted second ascent. Nice work!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Casino Cliffs : Mickey Goes to Vegas (5.9)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Did this on gear 6/2/13 for giggles. The bottom went easily but the top was a bit harder to protect without endangering the route should something break the rock. An okay #3 Camalot around to the left in the larger crack protected the last moves with the least potential for destroying the route. Jake Croft did it mostly on tricams only, clipping the last 2 bolts. We're calling it Mickey Goes to Eldo... just kidding.


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