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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Linkup: Hebe to CWAV (5.13a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't post this until now because I was trying to think of a clever name. I never did. The one star rating is a bit of a misnomer, as the movement is cool and it does linkup what are, in my opinion, two 4 star lines. However, it is still just a linkup and isn't special in its own right.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I just checked my guidebook. SQL2 says Craig Smith did the FA of the traverse start in 1987 and Brad Smith did the FA of Rage Direct in 1988.
While I've heard of several repeats of this line before this last year, I haven't heard anything about previous repeats of Rage Direct. I'm surprised as the movement is really good and interesting, as long as you can reach the holds at the start.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: We talked in the gym jbak, I would agree the changes would make sense now. Although I would love to see the pin stay and just have a bolt nearby, as opposed to pulling it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why can't we just leave it as-is? I like the pin, it's (seemingly?) bomber and adds character to an already interesting route.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Photo
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always belayed off of slung chickenheads on BQ pitch 4, not off of a tree.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Walking off is almost certainly faster than doing 2 rappels, I know my partner who chose to walk down rather than rap beat me to the bottom by a few minutes.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Trapeze (5.11d)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking at the guidebook now (thanks EFR!), I can confirm a couple things. Easy on the Beaver is actually left of the Trapeze corner, and the bolts do not interfere with Trapeze. What is called Easy on the Beaver in the book I believe is actually the direct finish to Trapeze referenced above, and these bolts also do not seem to interfere with Trapeze original.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Lessons In Yorkshire (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably the fewest crimps on this route that I've ever pulled at the Beaver Wall; there's quite a few full pad or more edges, but only a couple small crimps. Really cool, powerful, yet body-tension-mandatory movement. Lots of nonstandard Beaver Wall hold types like slopers and underclings. I enjoyed this route a lot!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It appears bees have taken up residence and built a hive in the giant jug in the roof of the Bee Cave (on the project Scully bolted with the chain draws). You can see the honeycomb from the ground (it looks like golden glue). I tried climbing Stranglehoff, fell at the 2nd crux, and realized the bees were flying around me in increasing numbers. I lowered immediately, no one got stung, but just a word to the wise. Make sure you are prepared if climbing in the bee cave!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Derek, that line is Icarus 5.11. Bolted & FA'd by Eric Scully and Rob Edwards. It looks great and Scully says it is, but I haven't been able to get on it yet.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : Chimney Rock
By: Alex McIntyre When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: GregC- you did 8th & Main into Icarus (the 5.11 sport route up the overhanging arete of the pillar).
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was here today and if my memory serves me correctly, two bolts were added to the start (I'm remembering the now-third as the first when I did it; I could be completely wrong though). Not advocating chopping or any such nonsense, the start moves are harder now with the manzanita gone and you no longer need to worry about breaking an ankle getting to the first bolt. Just figured a note was in order to perhaps encourage those previously scared of the first section to get out there and g... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Children of the Revolution (5.13-)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux of Children is figuring out the beta for the lower half. The mono pull is cake; it is so deep that it accepts my entire middle finger and the edge is nice and cushy. I fit 3 fingers into the "2 finger" pocket and it didn't seem that shallow to me (full finger pad). We didn't have daylight to try it more than once each, unfortunately, but this route isn't nearly as hard as one might imagine. The bottom is really strange and awkward though.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm strongly opposed to chopping the bolts down to the original 3. Geir, you "not knowing" isn't the product of this being some obscure fact, but you not paying attention to the guidebook. Every time I've climbed this I've shuddered at the original 3 bolts. The route is closer to 90 feet long than 70, it comes somewhat close to maxing out a 60m.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Chossy
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember having fun at the end of the day once having a line of pads and a spotter holding another upright, standing on the rock against the boulder on the left side and jumping to the cool block feature, then topping out. Not really a "route" and not all that different than "Leap Recon" which I'm assuming hits up the same two blocky jugs, but certainly a decent way to have some fun.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Hairline (V3)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A while back I was working a sit start to this problem, but never did it. Has this been done yet? I haven't been to Hairpin in quite a while.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Linda Vista : ... : Sent To The Office (5.10c)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Dec 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this yesterday. I think the upper part of pitch 2 is very serious- the climbing through the 70+ foot runout has some nontrivial sections on really bad rock. I thought the movement on this route was cool. We also saw no place for pro on the first pitch, which resulted in my wandering right to clip the last bolt on either Hierarchy or Old School. The last pitch was cool and felt a bit soft for the grade, but there were only 6 bolts (not 7 as stated on here) and the hard section was followe... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : Sunset Drop
By: Alex McIntyre When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This belongs in the Windy Point West area.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Death Warmed Over (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are only two or three edges that would really qualify as "credit cards" but they are incut and decently deep. The crux holds are thinner but more rounded than my idea of a credit card. Zombie Flanders has a credit card if I recall which might be your memory as it is right next door. All of the crimps are thin but none of them are the skin-shredding monsters one might think of when looking at the apparently blankness of this face of the Goosehead.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Death Warmed Over (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took the rating from STL, never heard from Scully how hard it was. It is probably hard 13a or pretty spot on 13a/b in my opinion.
EDIT: Found Scully's entry on rockclimbing.com as 13a. The grade is my opinion of its difficulty.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Death Warmed Over (5.13a/b)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fair enough. I felt hesitant about not giving it 4 stars after calling it "one of the best" routes of its type, but I would tend to agree that it is a little short to call a 4 star classic.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Glide Path (5.12a)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was out at Knight's Wall on Sunday and checked this line out. It appears the bolts (at least those visible from the ground) have been replaced with nice new 3/8 or 1/2 inch fatties with shiny new hangers.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rocket Science (5.13)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is important to note that there is a chipped crimp near the top of the steep section. This was done post-FA. No one that I have talked to (and there is only one other person)has done the climb using this chipped crimp. The move is a dyno from the double crimp rail to the jug, foregoing this travesty of a hold. Using it would lower the grade significantly and not be in the same style as the FA.
That being said, this is an absolutely beautiful climb and is full of awesome movement. One of... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Trapeze (5.11d)
By: Alex McIntyre When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't have the guidebook in front of me, but I was out at the Beaver wall today and it appears that the "Easy on the Beaver" bolts are actually left of the Trapeze corner and probably not interfering with the original route.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Photo
By: Alex McIntyre When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Additionally, it is a ladder of bomber looking 3/8th inch bolts, and thus extremely unlikely that they would fail.
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