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Member Since: Oct 19, 2003
Last Visit: Jul 7, 2016
Contact Alex Chiang

Point Rank: # 26,393
Total Points: 5
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Alex Chiang been climbing?










Contributions


All 15 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts | Stars 10 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: We were here on Saturday, June 18, 2016, and simply could not find the bolts.

I feel fairly certain that we were in the right place (not like the poster just above), and we climbed up and down the start several times.

I hate to say it but it really felt like the bolts have been removed, but of course someone who has definitely done it before should confirm.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: It is possible to bump a #3 BD cam almost the entire length of P3, but the section is long enough that you'd want to have at least 2 of them and leave one at the halfway mark.

I have hands on the smaller side, but the fact that the #3 is sufficient means that this pitch is more like fists for me, than an actual OW.

A #4 isn't strictly necessary (but I guess wouldn't hurt). Just make sure you save 2 pieces of that size for *after* the roof and you'll be fine.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 12, 2004

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Comments: Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Good Timing (5.10a)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 6, 2004

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Comments: I had the 2001 Gillett book, and it claims a 5.9 rating, which I thought was legit, albeit on the stiff side. Then again, I expect most routes at Lumpy to be stiff, so take that comment for what it's worth.

The roof on P1 protects nicely for the leader, as you can get a piece in above your head, but I couldn't figure out a good way to protect the second. Perhaps a #5 of profanity and a friendly "don't fall" comment while you're nice and safe at the belay bolts.

I only saw 3 bolts as of J... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Spoof (5.8+)
By: Alex Chiang When: Oct 19, 2003

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Comments: As if the slick rock and awkward pro weren't enough, climbing this route also requires wallowing through piles of pigeon guano and breathing poo dust. I would only recommend this route if you have climbed every other route in the canyon and simply need to get that last tick.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

West Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Daff Dome West Face

The Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall

Northwest Buttress 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Tenaya Peak

Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak

Snott Girlz 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

North America : Mexico : ... : Mota Wall

Northwest Books 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Northwest Face

Bear's Reach 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall

Great White Book 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome

Shagadelic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Center

Pop Bottle 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall


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