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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Alec When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful with those pebbles on the second pitch -- I busted one off 20 ft out on lead. Spicy!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower
By: Alec When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area needs to be split up into subsections -- it contains lots of routes not really near the Watchtower and in easily separated sections.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Half-A-Finger (5.9+)
By: Alec When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really isn't sustained or strenuous at all. There are excellent stances for placing bomber pro before each crux. Ten is dead on -- great for a 5.10 sport climber learning to place gear.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Viewing (5.10a R)
By: Alec When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a bit harder than the S-Direct and solid LCC .10a. Excellent rock and sustained right to the end.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Repeat Offender (5.11a)
By: Alec When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This needs its own anchors. Traversing left after the last bolt is chossy, lame, and creates all kinds of rope drag. Otherwise, it's another pretty damn fun route on this wall!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Conflict (5.10c/d)
By: Alec When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I both thought this was a bit soft for 5.10d. There are plenty of rests all the way up. Unfortunately it's a bit overbolted.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Wake and Bake (5.11d)
By: Alec When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little route. Mostly jugs and a few big moves to the last bolt, then gets a bit thin to the anchors. Great cobble pulling!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Ride the Lightning (5.11)
By: Alec When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, much harder start to the Virus. Climbs slightly overhanging rock up four bolts with edges, crimps and some sweet ringlocks. Don't even bother with the first bolt.
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: Alec When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We snapped a dogbone on the 4th bolt of this today. He took a pretty big whipper and nearly decked. Looks like there was a pretty sharp edge slowly sawing the quickdraw on each fall (there were probably 4-5 beforehand throughout the day), right before the crux. Check your draws for wear on this one if you're working it for a while!
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Cries of Impending Doom (5.11b)
By: Alec When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, sustained route. I managed a nice rest before the crux halfway up.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Southwest Face Right (5.9)
By: Alec When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this such a different way it's worth mentioning:
Three pitches from the ledge got me to a belay on a horn right next to the S buttress topout:
1) Traverse on a ledge, up the easy right-facing flake, and up a thin seam to another right-facing corner/flake. Belay at rap slings on top of the flake. 55m, 5.9
2) Climb easy ground past grassy ledges to a large ledge below a left-facing, arching crack. 40m, 5.4
3) Above the belay, climb a left-trending, left-facing flake to a stance. Then... more >>
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers
By: Alec When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would recommend an ice axe for any parties w/ goals of climbing routes in the Wolf's Head / Shark's Nose / Overhanging Tower area. This (2009) season is unique (snowed through much of June), but there is a TON of snow up there, and any descents down any of those gullies will be quite hairy when there's snow. You don't want to have to make snow bollards in bullet-hard snow for rapping couloirs in the middle of the night...
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Alec When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the latest guidebook this is listed as a grade III. I would call it SOLID grade IV when including the convoluted descent. Don't underestimate this route, its winding nature calls for either short pitches or heinous rope drag and retreat is out of the question once on the upper ridge. Get an early start -- the descent is sketchball in the dark!
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warrior 1 : Northeast Face of Warrior I (5.9)
By: Alec When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet description. Very informative
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Riptide (5.11a)
By: Alec When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quality AF steep pocket pulling. FA Bill Boyle
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Broken Serenity (5.9)
By: Alec When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One-move wonder. Good start to Bats in the Belfry, though gear would be sparse.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : John Doe 2 (5.11 PG13)
By: Alec When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What differentiates this route is the topout -- the direct finish is much more difficult than Fortress.
As for the gear, my partner today whipped on a red C3 behind the flake between the two bolts. He took off a chunk of rock too with another cam which freed up another small placement!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Left Tributary (5.10d)
By: Alec When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt pretty soft for .10d
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: Alec When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure you pull the rope from below the anchors rather than from below the dihedral -- we got ours stuck today behind the horn and it required some creativity to retrieve...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street
By: Alec When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are there any routes here that extend to the top of the wall? Seems like a shame if there's not since it looks like great rock for another 200+ feet above most anchors here...
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: Alec When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a fatality on the Main Vein in early January 2009 due to a massive avalanche: blog post
The South Fork isn't known for avalanches, but don't forget to check out conditions before getting out there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Everest Ridge (Mod. Snow)
By: Alec When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to see this route in here -- the best way to summit Timp IMO. The elevation changes are a bit exaggerated here, though: it's more like 6400 vertical ft from Dry Canyon..
SummitPost has an excellent route description as well
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Maid In America (5.10b)
By: Alec When: Aug 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not bad til the traverse -- 4th clip is pretty tenuous
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Lecherous Leanings (5.11+)
By: Alec When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, wow. Great write-up, photos, and comments. It's pages like this that make MP so awesome. I'll be looking to get on this route this summer/fall, that is if I can convince anyone to do it with me (sure as hell won't be pointing them to this page, hahaha)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Vertical Smile (5.10a)
By: Alec When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unreal! Two distinct cruxes -- the thin stemming on the third pitch and pulling the roof at the top of the fourth. The roof felt stout for .10a, but the jams are solid and there is the corner to help you out. Get on it!
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