Aug.31-Sep.01.2008

MOUNT TOCLLARAJU DIRECT WEST FACE CLIMB (PERU)

TRIP REPORT BY ERIC ALBINO AND OCTAVIO SALAZAR

We’re two young guys full of mountaineering spirit, and we’re glad to share with you our adventure on the Direct West route of the mountTocllaraju. Octavio Salazar Obregon, 21 years old and Eric Albino Lliuya, 24 years old, both from Huaraz, Peru, aspirants to official mountain guides and currently attending our studies at Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña – our school of mountain guides.

An adventure in the mountains of Cordillera Blanca:

We’re two boys who are still learning and acquiring experience to be able to lead people and take care of human lives in the mountains. Why the idea to climb the Tocllaraju? It occurred while we were watching some pictures from our Photo album of Cordillera Blanca and we’ve decided ourselves for Tocllaraju. Our idea was to choose a route which doesn’t represent obvious dangers and risks, such as avalanches o rock falls, although nothing is safe in the mountains and one never knows when and where the things happen!

The next expedition in our list is to the South face of Ranrapalca Mountain (6162 m/ 20211 ft), which is a pretty nice wall, where we’d like to test ourselves. But given that the climate conditions are very important in this kind of climbs, because all of our mountains are technically challenging and indeed have a big deal of risk, we’ll leave it until the weather allows us our next adventure. In the future we’re planning to organise more technical climbs and expeditions to the mountains of Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and outside of Peru: in Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. Our goal is to get more experience on big walls, and this time we were quite successful and happy with our climb, because we’ve had a great adventure and finally could step on the summit of our dreams – Tocllaraju!

Brief introduction to the climate in the Andes.

The tropical character of the Peruvian Andes, resulting from its location close to the Equator, explains the existence, along the year, of two well marked climate seasons: dry and wet, each with drastic differences and just short intermediate periods. Because of its location in the Southern hemisphere, Peruvian winter occurs when Europe and Northern America are in summer.

May to September

This is the only period when climbing in the mountains is recommended. This is the dry season that coincides with winter and presents, because of the close location to Equator, between 30 and 50 minutes of daylight less every day. On the heights over 4500m/14760ft frosts are common. July is the best month, because in August strong northern winds begin to blow.

September to December

Season suitable for climbing to some lower mountains and for trekking. Corresponds to the spring in the Southern hemisphere. Rains, result from clouds formed during the mornings, are more and more common, with strong sudden rain showers especially in the afternoon. Electric storms are also possible, but the skies get clear soon and the nights are clear and starry.

Tour Schedule: August 31, 2008.

Our adventure has started from our beautiful and noble hometown of Huaraz, situated on 3100 m / 10168 ft of altitude. We’ve left in the morning, exactly at 9:30am, and drove by our private transport towards the tiny village of Pashpa on 3650m/ 11972 ft where our donkey guide is waiting for us. It took to our taxi around 1 hour to get us there, and from here the adventure starts! At 10:50am we’ve started our hike towards the Ishinka valley in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. At 13:10 we were already in the Ishinca base camp situated on 4350m/ 14268 ft.

After arriving at 13:10pm to the Ishinca Base Camp, we’ve taken some time to relax, to rest and eat something. After all, we were not going too fast, because it wasn’t a competition and we didn’t look for a record : - ). At 14:00pm we’ve continued our hike towards the high camp of the Mount Tocllaraju.

We’ve reached the High Camp of Tocllaraju at 16:30 after having ported all our technical climbing and camping equipment and food supplies. The altitude here is 5250m / 17220ft. In the afternoon we've checked the route that we were planning to climb next day very early in the morning.

September 01, 2008:

We woke up early in the morning, at 03:30am, prepared a light breakfast and got ready all our climbing equipment. At 4:30am we left the tent and headed directly to the West wall of the mountain. It was already 06:00am, when we started to climb our first section of 60 meters of rope. The weather was almost perfect and the ice conditions at this stage were optimal. The slopes were not steeper than 60 degrees, and the snow was pretty compacted. After 4 sections of 60 meters we’ve found ourselves on a section of hard ice, which required from our side more concentration and attention to the security. So, we’ve enjoyed this first part of the climb very much! Three ropes more on this kind of ice and the terrain has changed again: now, along the two next ropes, the snow was pretty loose and the slopes steeper, up to 80 degrees. We also turned a bit to the right to avoid some seracs and cornices on the way. The most technical terrain included the three last ropes almost close to the summit.

After all, we’ve spent 8 hours climbing on the wall; we felt us relaxed and confident with the terrain and ourselves and especially enjoyed those more challenging sections with steeper slopes, like those before the summit. We used two 60m ropes, 9 ice screws, 2 snow pickets and much enthusiasm! Already on the top, around 14:00pm, we gave each other a hug and took as much pictures as possible : - ) Now our way back was waiting for us; given that the normal route of Tocllaraju is not a technical climb we took this way to get back to the camp. After packing all our equipment in our rucksacks we returned to Huaraz the same afternoon – to be honest we were very tired, but it was worthwhile! Our expedition required only two days and one night. (Wrote by Eric Albino & Octavio Salazar, All Rights Reserved CEAM 2008).

CREDITS:

We are very grateful with our parents for their help, support, comprehension and aims, also we want to thank the Agency & Tour Operator of Juventino Albino “Peru Expeditions/ South America Climbing” ( southamericaclimbing.com ). Also many thanks to Eloy Salazar, mountain guide, for his support and to Alex – our express taxi driver for his valuable help. We also say “thank you” to all our friends around the world for giving us their support and aims. To Sun and Snow Expeditions ( andeanchallenge.com/en/news…) for the edition of texts. And especially to our beloved PERUVIAN MOUNTAINS...
more info: Eric Albino Lliuya .
MSN erik_bergsport@andesadventureland.com
eric@southamericaclimbing.com
www.southamericaclimbing.com

Peru,Ecuador & Bolivia -Tour Operator.

JUVENTINO ALBINO CALDUA
MOBILE:+43 943780600 -HUARAZ - PERU

ERIC ALBINO -Aspirant MOUNTAIN GUIDE ..
MOBILE: +51 1 995787241-LIMA - PERU*

OFFICE IN HUARAZ:

AVENIDA RAYMONDI 903
HOTEL LOS PORTALES
PHONE +43 428184
Managing Director .

http://andesadventureland.com/

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Ranrapalca 2009 – Peruvian Expedition
Report by Eric ,Octavio & Eloy.
New routes in Cordillera Blanca
Peruvian climbers, Octavio, Eloy Salazar and Eric Albino, performed a new route after 29 hours of non stop climbing at the steep south face of Nevado Ranrapalca, located in central Huascaran National Park.
The new route was called “the beating of Ranrapalca” (La Paliza del Ranrapalca)and it’s rated ED, 50° – 90°/95°, 850 m
Climbing style:
The expedition was a greater sporting challenge, because presents the novelty of Sport climbing planned in a light style without dispenses with a Camp on the moraine of the mountain, as well as all equipment shall be carried out along the route of the expedition members in the more exposed sites without the aid of altitude porters & animals.
The strategy results in a rapid ascent that demand technical and less time, materials and exposure on the mountain.

» Eloy Salazar, Octavio Salazar y Eric Albino abren nueva ruta en la Cordillera Blanca

Sustainable Expedition
Also we practice minimum impact techniques that allow us to withdraw, leaving the mountain as far as possible-more about how we found: no garbage that could have generated. "If we can load it up, we will be able to load it back."
The Objective
The main objective of the expedition is to first locate a group of Peruvians climbers in the summit of this mountain of 6162 meters of altitude doing sport climbing in 2009. Another desire is to get the 1st Ranrapalca ascent in a new route and for all routes that are possible from the standpoint of security, as well as the descent from the summit.
Ranrapalca mountain 2009.
It is noteworthy that of the 30 mountains over 6.000m altitude in Cordillera Blanca.
The Mountain.
The south face of Ranrapalca or "stony place" translated from Quechua to Spanish, is located in central Huascaran National Park, is a mass of about 6 kilometers long, with walls of rock, ice and snow of about 750 to 850 meter drop, not even counting his gigantic plain end, leading to the sharp peak of 6162 m.
The Expedition

After 29 hours of hard climbing between the rise and fall, the Peruvian climbers, Eloy, Octavio Salazar along with Eric Albino, made a new route on the steep south face of the Nevado Ranrapalca.

The Expedition
August 26, the approach was made from Quebrada Cojup, right next to Quebrada Ishinca. Half of it, and with the south wall above them plot a detour to approach the moraine and perform their respective camp, at 4800 m. Throughout the period last the ascent.

August 27, the conditions, as in most of this unusual season, is quite bad, so the group decides to inspect the area and outline a possible entry route. The glacier left for 20 minutes from the camp, but the problems just start there. The ice conditions are very poor, from going up and down thin ice, crevasses and gigantic ice bridges so fragile they have to crawl to pass safely. Then draw a imaginary line, we got back to camp in the afternoon. After few hours we have a nice surprise with an absolute improvement in the weather. No time to lose, eat something, try to relax a bit until 23:00 pm. At the same day, we are ready to climb.

The challenge
During the first minutes of August 28, we pass through the first bergschrund access to the wall, but located a few meters above the second and last one was waiting for us about 5150m. That really puts us right in front of the giant south wall of Ranrapalca.

The first 240 meters of wall, is done in assembly, a slope of loose snow at inclinations of 50 ° - 60 °. The loose snow gives them the security of sinking to the point where the steps are safe and ongoing.

The first mixed tranche forces to Octavio forces to get a glimpse of cleverness making in an hard snow as main anchor while the others roped climb about 40 feet below, but 5 meters apart from each other. After placing an ice screw, overcome this technical area and again exceed a hard snow field about 240 meters, where they perform a quite original assembly, to overcome the wall that gave us respite. While the separate first roped up to 40 meters of his companions, he was putting stakes and climbing at the same time, we not mounted any meeting. Below, his companions, 5 meters apart, while also climbing and very alert for the first roped suffered a fall. Barely reached the stakes placed by the head cordate, recovering their peers.

Epic Summit
This same technique was used as described above in the upper third of the wall, the most complicated and hard ice climbing. Only we did meetings when we run out of climbing gear, thus make us able to overcome almost all wall before dark, keeping in time the last part that it was the hardest part of the climb. The final area features an overhang where again we placed ice screws to get into a gutter of 80° and 120m Long. This puts us protected on directly line to the edge which becomes split in flat areas and in higher part is so sharp that require them to "ride" on it to achieve the summit. Finally at 18:30 hours we arrived to the summit on Ranrapalca.
With the last light of evening that reach beyond the edge of the east wall of the mountain, the team got 3 rappels down about 360 m and then downclimbing the rest of the route, towards the mountain (50 - 55 °) to the col that separates it from Ishinca. From there return to their moraine camp around 4 am and rest until the 1 pm to return, the same 28 August Huaraz.

Although not yet verified the entire route as a new, presumably it is already known on this side roads through the areas west and east, but no crosses half the wall.

Mountaineers climbing as cataloging their ED, 50°-90°/95°, 850m, with 20 of ascent and 9 hours of descent without bivouacs and total alpine style, called "the beating of Ranrapalca”. Had no shortage of reasons.
The gear used ropes were 60 m, complete sets of rock pitons and bolts of ice and snow stakes. Only one of them left.
Under this legacy, this Expedition Team takes on this important sporting challenge, to climb this magnificent mountain.
South Face Route: POSSIBLE NEW ROUTE TO THE SOUTH SIDE OF Ranrapalca.

Foto desde el mirador Rataquenua Huaraz.

The Team Ranrapalca 2009

Maximum Eloy Salazar Obregon.
Born in 1976, Single. University student Santiago Antúnez Specialty pure mathematics. From childhood I was always in contact with the mountain From very young I loved to take walks. When I was 16 I participated in many competition wining a marathon and many competitions. I would like for life to be near mountains country side. Eloy practiced climbing before 21 years old and for few years serving as assistant mountain guides of Peru.
Currently I work as High Mountain Guide and Member of (AGMP) Mountain Guides Association of Peru. UIAGM / International Union of Mountain Guides Association.

I had the opportunity to visit part of Peru thanks to projects such as studies of glaciology in Cusco Ausangate mountain range. As a mountain guide I've been in mountain classic climbs and I led several expeditions, explored mountains in Peru. I also participate in the film Touching the void of Siula Grande famous large mountain located in Cordillera Huayhuash

My brother Octavio & I, we've been major climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, from a rapid ascent in 3 days Alpamayo, then return, carrying all our equipment ourselves, to attempt a risky opening to the large Huantsan Last year, for its unscalable northwest side. We have also made the snowy summit Churup.

Octavio Salazar Obregon

Born in 1987, single, aspiring mountain guide. (ISTP) Instituto Tecnologico Private Private / (CEAM) Center for Study of High Mountain
I have led large numbers of high mountain expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash.

I've also made significant and classic climbs as Bolivia Cordillera Real Condoriri head of the wall route with teammate Eric Huaynapotosí normal route and volcanic range Ecuador Cotopaxi and Chimborazo normal route

Major classic climbs in the Cordillera Blanca

Eric Albino Lliuya.

Born in 1984, single, aspiring mountain guide. (ISTP) Instituto Tecnologico Private/ (CEAM) Center for Study of High Mountain, 5 years experience, I participated in many high mountain ascents accompanied my grandfather Victor and my father Juventino Member of the AGMP / UIAGM who was one Pioneers expeditions in the Andes Mountains in Peru in 1978.

I've also made significant and classic summits as Bolivia Cordillera Real Condoriri head of the wall route with teammate Octavio, Huaynapotosí normal route and volcanic mountains in Ecuador I had the opportunity to guide many classic mountain expeditions - as the main Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, and others.

Translation English Version:
Thanks our friend :Rodrigo Fuentes From Chile –Sport Climber ,he is good friend from Eric ,he was this year (2009) traveling with Eric’s Family in cordillera Blanca climbing Classic Mountain..
E-mail: rodefuentes@gmail.com

Ranrapalca 2009 – Contact:
>> To send e-mail members of the expedition
• Eloy Salazar: rimarima22@hotmail.com
• Octavio Salazar: andes_climb@hotmail.com /Octavio_andes@yahoo.es
• Eric Albino: eric@southamericaclimbing.com /erik_bergsport@yahoo.es /Info@andesadventureland.com
Phone
Eloy Salazar +51-043 -943034009 -Huaraz-Perú.
Octavio Salazar +51-043-943421742-Huaraz-Peru.
Eric Albino +51-043-943081066 –Huaraz-Perú /+51-01-995787241-Lima-Peru.

Links –Info .Publications report Climbing.
www.barrabes.com
www.montanismo.org
www.summitpost.org
www.mountainproject.com
www.southamericaclimbing.com/

--
-------------------------- Office Information ---------------------------------------------
JUVENTINO ALBINO CALDUA(UIAGM) LEADING Expeditions since 1978-2010.
Peru Expeditions –Trekking & Climbing EIRL.
www.southamericaclimbing.com
South América Climbing – International Adventures &-Expeditions.
Leading Expeditions: Peru, Ecuador , Bolivia & Argentina (Aconcagua) -Tour Operator.
Movil: +51 043 943780600 -HUARAZ – PERU(Juventino)
ERIC ALBINO -Aspirant MOUNTAIN GUIDE .
Movil:+51 043 943 081066 Huaraz-Peru.(Eric)
SKYPE: erik_bergsport .
Avenida Raymondi 903 (Hotel los Portales)-Huaraz.
www.andesadventureland.com
facebook.com/BergsteigenSue…

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Expedition trips reports
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barrabes.com/revista/articu…

hikr.org/user/erik_berg/tour/

montanismo.org/articulos.ph…

alpinist.com/doc/web09f/new…

montanismo.org.mx/articulos…

summitpost.org/users/albino…

ericnewroute2009.blogspot.com/

mountainproject.com/v/albin…

barrabes.com/revista/notici…

( Video Barrabes trip report)

About ERIC ALBINO from Peru:

I am a youngster who is still acquiring experience, motivated by my father and grandfathers. I have many years experience working as assistant guide during trekking tours and climbing expeditions organised by my father and worked as an English translator. At the moment I’m studying at CEAM(Centro de Estudios de Alta Montaña)School of Mountain Guides from Peru “Casa de Guias” (House of Guides) Aspirant to be an official Mountain guide .
Responsible and Expedition Tour Leader of International travels in South America in the logistics suport operation and Organisation of expeditions in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina & Chile.

Encargado de los viajes en Sur America ;

Eric has a great experience in the Andean South America Expeditions in Peruvian Andes Cordillera blanca ,clasic Mountains ; Alpamayo (5947m), Huascaran Sur (6768m),Tocllaraju(6034m) normal route & recort climbing direct west face in 2 days, Ranrapalca (6162m) new route sur face valle Cojub, Urus central(5495m) new direct route sur face, Palcaraju central (6264m),Ishinca(5530m),Vallunaraju (5686m),Pisco (5750m),Diablo Mudo (5300m) and clasic treks .

also in the Bolivian Cordillera Real ,Condoriri cabeza de condor direct Route(5648m) and Huaynapotosi normal route (6088m) .

and Argentinean Patagonia Andes, the hihgest peak of South America Aconcagua (6962m) with American Expedition in 2009.

In Ecuador Andean Avenida de los volcanes , Chimborazo (6310m),Cotopaxi(5897m),Cayambe(5790m), Iliniza Norte(5126m),Antisana(5758m),Guagua Pichincha(4784m),Rucupichincha(4698m),Pasochoa(4199m) and others.

In European Alpes the Germany,Italy and Austrian Alps. Such experience allowed to lead challenging Expeditions and new routes with much success.
LANGUAJE :
Spanish –Quechua –English

Eric speaks fluent English,basic French & Italian ,Lerning germany languaje at the moment in Germany-Europe ;).

Escudo del Huascaran

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Sábado 20 de agosto de 2011. Núm. 306
Ascenso al Huascarán por El Escudo

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Una cordada de montañistas peruanos y un ecuatoriano escaló el Huascarán por la pared El Escudo el pasado mes de julio.

Erick Albino ,Team Montañismo

Una cordada de tres montañistas ascendió la ruta El Escudo, en la montaña más alta de Perú: el Huascarán (6,768 metros). El ascenso lo lograron el 17 de julio Juan Caldúa, Eric Albino (ambos peruanos) y Edgar Parra (Ecuador) en un recorrido de 15 horas en viaje redondo contado desde el el campo avanzado 1 (5,350).

Escalada al Huascarán por El Escudo.
Fotos: Eric Albino.
Click para agrandarlas.
El Escudo es una pared dentro de la cumbre principal del Huascarán. Sus diicultades principales son la inclinación y que llega muy cerca de la cumbre. El trío debió avanzar el día anterior hasta el CA1. El día 16 salieron de su campamento y tras 1:40 horas, llegaron hasta la rimaya donde “las dificultades apenas inician” porque las condiciones del glaciar eran muy malas: grandes grietas y puentes de hielo frágiles por los que tuvieron que reptar para poder cruzar.
“Luego de trazar un paso en la rimaya (85-90 grados por unos cuatro metros de desnivel), dijamos en la tarde un largo de 60 metros” y después regresaron al campamento para descansar unas horas. A las 01:20 del día 17 iniciaron el ascenso definitivo.

“Atravesamos la rimaya del acceso a la pared con mucha facilidad gracias a nuestra cuerda fija, pero alrededor de los a unos 6000 metros ubicamos hielo duro no muy confiable, la que realmente nos ponía a pie de la gigantesca pared El Escudo de Huascarán”.
“Los primeros 240 metros de pared, lo realizamos en ensamble por una pendiente de hielo compacta y algunas partes nieve suelta con inclinaciones de hasta 75 grados. El hielo duro nos brindó inseguridad de escalada, por lo mismo que es muy sólido y comprende a reventar. En este tramo se recomienda tener buenos tornillos de hielo para la rapidez de la escalda y la seguridad”.

“Después de esta zona técnica y llegamos a terreno mixto: hielo y nieve duros, por una longitud de 240 metros. Este tramo es más seguro y confiable. Mientras el primero de cordada subía, los dos últimos iban recuperando los materiales. Salvo por la cuerda fija, la escalada fue estilo alpino y en ensamble. A cada uno nos tocaba puntear para compartir la experiencia y guardar energía para la cima.”
“Este mismo sistema lo empleamos en el resto de la pared. Más adelante la pared muestra nieve compacta y segura. Hubo un momento en que la pared bajó su pendiente hasta 50-65 grados: habíamos terminado El Escudo pero aún debíamos seguir a la cumbre por la arista de aproximadamente 300 metros. Ahí enlazamos con la ruta normal a la cumbre sur del Huascarán, que nos llevó a la cumbre.”

“Estábamos ahí a las 13:00 horas, pero esta vez no disfrutamos del panorama porque el tiempo estaba mal, con muchas nibes y ventisca.”
“El Escudo está catalogdefinido por la escala de dificultad de la UIAA como sigue: D superior (difícil superior), 50º (el paso de la rimaya de cuatro metros fue de 90 grados), 600 metros de desnivel y nosotros hicimos 11:20 horas de subida y cuatro de bajada sin vivac intermedio, lo que hace un total de 15:20 horas.”
“El material utilizado fueron cuerdas de 60 metros (una de reserva), tornillos de hielo y estacas para nieve. No se abandonó ninguna.”

Saturday August 20, 2011. No. 306

Climbing Huascaran by The Shield

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A climbers roped an Ecuadorian and Peruvian climbed the wall Huascaran The Shield last July.

Erick Albinus , Mountaineering Team

A three climbers roped together totaled Route Shield, the highest mountain in Peru: Huascaran (6,768 meters). The rise did it on July 17, Juan Caldúa, Eric Albino (both Peruvians) and Edgar Parra (Ecuador) on a journey of 15 hours round trip from the field counted Advanced 1 (5.350).

Climbing Huascaran by The Shield.
Photos: Eric Albino.
Click to enlarge.
The Shield is a wall inside the main summit of Huascaran. Its main diicultades are the inclination and comes very close to the summit. The trio had to move the previous day to the CA1. On 16 out of their camp and after 1:40 pm, reached the bergschrund where "problems are just beginning" because ice conditions were very bad: large cracks and frail ice bridges for those who had to crawl to cross .
"After drawing a step in the bergschrund (85-90 degrees for about four meters of altitude) in the afternoon dijamos a length of 60 meters" and then returned to camp to rest for a few hours. At 01:20 on 17 began the final ascent.

"We crossed the bergschrund access to the wall with ease thanks to our fixed rope, but around about 6000 meters are located not very reliable, hard ice, which really put us to the foot of the gigantic wall of Huascaran The Shield."
"The first 240 meters of wall, we do it in assembly by a slope of ice and compact snow loose parts with slopes up to 75 degrees. The hard ice climbing insecurity gave us, therefore it is very robust and includes burst. This stretch should have good ice screws to the speed of climbing and safety. "

"After this technical area and we mixed terrain, snow and ice hard, for a length of 240 meters. This section is safer and more reliable. While the first roped up, the last two were recovered materials. Except for the fixed rope, climbing alpine style was in assembly. Each tap was our turn to share experience and to save energy for the top. "
"This same system will employ in the rest of the wall. Later on the wall shows packed snow and safe. There was a time when the wall came down the slope to 50-65 degrees, we finished The Shield but still we should go to the top of the ridge about 300 meters. Here we join the normal route to the south summit of Huascaran, which led us to the summit. "

"We were there at 13:00, but this time we do not enjoy the picture because the weather was bad, with many nibes and blizzard."
"The Shield is catalogdefinido the scale of difficulty UIAA as follows: D top (hard top), 50 º (the passage of four meters bergschrund was 90 degrees), 600 meters of altitude and we did 11:20 am upstream and four downstream bivouac without intermission, for a total of 15:20 hours. "
"The material used was rope 60 meters (one spare), ice screws and snow stakes. Not abandoned any. "

Samstag 20. August 2011. Nr. 306

Klettern Huascaran von The Shield

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Ein Kletterer angeseilt einer ecuadorianischen und peruanischen kletterte die Wand Huascaran The Shield im Juli letzten Jahres.

Erick Albinus , Bergsteigen-Team

Ein drei Kletterer angeseilt beliefen Strecke Shield, dem höchsten Berg in Peru: Huascaran (6768 m). Der Anstieg kam es am 17. Juli, Juan Caldúa, Eric Albino (beide Peruaner) und Edgar Parra (Ecuador) auf eine Reise von 15 Stunden Hin-und Rückfahrt aus dem Bereich gezählt Advanced 1 (5,350).

Klettern Huascaran von The Shield.
Fotos: Eric Albino.
Klicken Sie auf das Bild.
The Shield ist eine Wand im Inneren der Hauptgipfel des Huascaran. Seine Hauptaufgabe diicultades sind die Neigung und kommt sehr nahe an der Spitze. Das Trio hatte sich zu bewegen am Vortag der CA1. Auf 16 von ihrem Lager und nach 13.40 Uhr erreichte die bergschrund wo "Probleme am Anfang stehen", weil Eisverhältnisse waren sehr schlecht: große Risse und gebrechlich Eisbrücken für diejenigen, die zu kriechen, um Cross .
"Nach dem Zeichnen ein Schritt in die bergschrund (85-90 Grad für etwa vier Meter Höhe) am Nachmittag dijamos einer Länge von 60 Metern" und dann ins Lager zurück, um für ein paar Stunden ruhen lassen. Um 01:20 Uhr am 17. begann der endgültige Aufstieg.

"Wir überquerten die bergschrund Zugriff auf die Wand mit Leichtigkeit dank unserer Klettersteig, sondern um etwa 6000 Meter sind nicht sehr zuverlässig, hartes Eis, das wirklich bringen uns an den Fuß der gigantischen Mauer des Huascaran The Shield entfernt."
"Die ersten 240 Meter der Wand, wir tun es in der Montage durch eine Neigung von Eis und Schnee kompakte lose Teile mit Steigungen bis zu 75 Grad. Die harte Eisklettern Unsicherheit gab uns, daher ist es sehr robust und umfasst platzen. Diese Strecke sollte gut Eisschrauben, um die Geschwindigkeit des Kletterns und Sicherheit haben. "

"Nach diesem technischen Bereich, und wir gemischtem Gelände, Schnee und Eis schwer, auf einer Länge von 240 Metern. Dieser Abschnitt ist sicherer und zuverlässiger. Während die ersten angeseilt waren die letzten beiden Materialien wieder. Mit Ausnahme der fixierten Seil, kletterte alpinen Stil in der Montage. Jeder Hahn war die Reihe an uns, um Erfahrungen auszutauschen und Energie für die oben zu retten. "
"Das gleiche System wird in den Rest der Wand einsetzen. Später an der Wand zeigt Schneeglätte und sicher. Es gab eine Zeit, als die Mauer fiel der Hang zu 50-65 Grad, fertigen wir The Shield aber dennoch sollten wir an die Spitze des Kamms etwa 300 Meter zu gehen. Hier schließen wir uns den normalen Weg in den Süden Gipfel des Huascaran, die uns auf den Gipfel geführt. "

"Wir waren dort um 13:00 Uhr, aber dieses Mal werden wir nicht in den Genuss des Bildes, weil das Wetter schlecht war, mit vielen nibes und Schneesturm."
"The Shield ist catalogdefinido das Ausmaß der Schwierigkeiten UIAA wie folgt: D top (Hardtop), 50 º (im Laufe der vier Meter bergschrund war 90 Grad), 600 Höhenmeter, und wir haben 11.20 Uhr Upstream-und vier Downstream-Biwak ohne Pause, für eine Gesamtmenge von 15.20 Stunden. "
"Das verwendete Material wurde Seil 60 Meter (ein Ersatz), Eisschrauben und Schnee Einsätzen. Nicht aufgegeben jeder. "

Sabato 20 agosto, 2011. N. 306

Arrampicata Huascaran di The Shield

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Un compagni di cordata uno ecuadoriana e peruviana scalato la parete Huascaran The Shield scorso luglio.

Erick Albino , squadra Alpinismo

A tre alpinisti in cordata sono pari Percorso Shield, la montagna più alta del Perù: Huascaran (6.768 metri). L'aumento ha fatto il 17 luglio, Juan Caldúa, Eric Albino (entrambi peruviani) e Edgar Parra (Ecuador) in un viaggio di 15 ore andata e ritorno dal campo contato avanzate 1 (5,350).

Arrampicata Huascaran di The Shield.
Foto: Eric Albino.
Clicca per ingrandire.
The Shield è un muro all'interno della cima principale del Huascaran. Le sue diicultades principali sono l'inclinazione e arriva molto vicino alla vetta. Il trio ha dovuto spostare il giorno precedente alla CA1. Il 16 fuori del loro campo e dopo le ore 1:40, raggiunto il crepaccio dove "i problemi sono solo all'inizio", perché le condizioni del ghiaccio erano pessime: grandi crepe e ponti di ghiaccio fragile per quelli che dovevano strisciare per attraversare .
"Dopo aver disegnato un passo nella crepaccio terminale (85-90 gradi per circa quattro metri di altitudine), nel pomeriggio dijamos una lunghezza di 60 metri", e poi tornò al campo a riposare per alcune ore. Alle 01:20 del 17 ha iniziato la salita finale.

"Abbiamo attraversato il crepaccio terminale di accesso alla parete con facilità grazie alla nostra corda fissa, ma in tutto circa 6000 metri si trovano non molto affidabile, ghiaccio duro, che in realtà ci ha messo alla base della parete gigantesca di Huascaran The Shield".
"I primi 240 metri di parete, lo facciamo in assemblea da un pendio di ghiaccio e neve compatta parti allentate con pendenze fino a 75 gradi. La dura insicurezza arrampicata su ghiaccio ci ha dato, quindi è molto robusto e comprende scoppiare. Questo tratto dovrebbe avere chiodi da ghiaccio buona la velocità di arrampicata e di sicurezza. "

"Dopo questa area tecnica e terreno misto, neve e ghiaccio duro, per una lunghezza di 240 metri. Questa sezione è più sicuro e più affidabile. Mentre la prima cordata, gli ultimi due sono stati recuperati materiali. Fatta eccezione per le ferrate, arrampicata in stile alpino è stato in assemblea. Ogni rubinetto è stato il nostro turno per condividere esperienze e per risparmiare energia per la cima. "
"Questo stesso sistema utilizzerà nel resto della parete. In seguito alla parete mostra neve compatta e sicura. C'è stato un tempo in cui il muro è venuto giù per il pendio a 50-65 gradi, abbiamo finito The Shield, ma ancora dobbiamo andare verso l'alto della cresta a circa 300 metri. Qui ci uniamo la via normale alla cima sud del Huascaran, che ci ha portato fino in cima. "

"Eravamo lì alle 13:00, ma questa volta non godono della foto perché il tempo era brutto, con molti nibes e tormenta."
"The Shield è catalogdefinido la scala UIAA difficoltà come segue: top D (hard top), 50 ° (il passaggio di quattro metri crepaccio terminale è stata di 90 gradi), a 600 metri di altitudine e abbiamo fatto 11:20 a monte e quattro bivacco a valle senza interruzione, per un totale di ore 15:20. "
"Il materiale utilizzato è stato corda 60 metri (uno di ricambio), chiodi da ghiaccio e neve posta in gioco. Non abbandonate qualsiasi. "

Суббота 20 августа 2011. № 306

Восхождение на Уаскаран щит

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Альпинисты веревкой эквадорских и перуанских поднялись стены Уаскаран Щит июле прошлого года.

Эрик Альбина , Альпинизм команды

Три альпинистов связке составил Маршрут Shield, самая высокая гора в Перу: Уаскаран (6768 метров). Повышение сделал это 17 июля, Хуан Caldúa, Эрик Альбино (как перуанцы) и Эдгар Парра (Эквадор) в путешествие по 15 часов в оба конца с поля считается Advanced 1 (5,350).

Восхождение на Уаскаран щита.
Фото: Эрик Альбино.
Кликните, чтобы увеличить.
Щит стены внутри Главная вершина Уаскаран. Основными являются diicultades наклона и подходит очень близко к вершине. Трио пришлось переехать в предыдущий день, чтобы СА1. На 16 из их лагеря и после вечера 1:40, достигло бергшрунда, где "проблемы только начинаются", потому что ледовые условия были очень плохими: большие трещины и хрупкие ледяные мосты для тех, кто доползти до креста .
"После нанесения шаг в бергшрунд (85-90 градусов в течение приблизительно четырех метров высоты) во второй половине дня dijamos длиной 60 метров", а затем вернулись в лагерь, чтобы отдохнуть в течение нескольких часов. В 1:20 на 17 начался заключительный подъем.

"Мы пересекли бергшрунд доступ к стене с легкостью благодаря нашим перил, а вокруг около 6000 метров расположены не очень надежный, твердый лед, который действительно поставит нас к подножию гигантской стене Уаскаран Щит".
"Первые 240 метров стены, мы делаем это в сборке по склону льда и плотного снега съемных частей, с уклоном до 75 градусов. Жесткий незащищенности восхождение лед дал нам, поэтому он очень надежен и включает в себя лопнуть. Этот участок должен иметь хорошие винты лед, чтобы скорость восхождения и безопасности ".

"После этой технической области, и мы смешанных местности, снегу и льду тяжело, длина 240 метров. Этот раздел является более безопасным и более надежным. Хотя первые веревкой вверх, последние два были обнаружены материалы. За исключением перил, восхождение в альпийском стиле был в сборе. Каждое нажатие пришла наша очередь для обмена опытом и для экономии энергии для топ ".
"Эта же система будет использовать в остальной части стены. Позже на стене показывает, слежавшийся снег и безопасно. Был момент, когда стены спустился по склону 50-65 градусов, мы закончили щит, но все же мы должны идти к вершине хребта около 300 метров. Здесь мы присоединяемся к классическому маршруту с юга вершина Уаскаран, которые привели нас к вершине. "

"Мы были там в 13:00, но на этот раз мы не пользуются картину, потому что погода была плохая, и многие nibes и метель."
"Щит catalogdefinido масштаба сложности UIAA следующим образом: D сверху (жесткий верх), 50 º (прохождение четырех метров бергшрунда была 90 градусов), 600 м над уровнем моря, и мы сделали 11:20 утра вверх и вниз по течению четыре бивуак без антракта, в общей сложности на 15:20 часов. "
"Используемый материал был веревку 60 метров (один запасной), ледобуры и снега ставки. Не отказались есть. "

Sábado 20 de agosto de 2011. N º 306

Escalada Huascaran por The Shield

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A alpinistas roped uma equatoriana e peruana escalou a parede Huascaran The Shield em julho passado.

Erick Albinus , Equipe de Montanhismo

A três alpinistas amarrados juntos totalizaram Route Shield, a mais alta montanha no Peru: Huascarán (6.768 metros). O aumento fez isso em 17 de julho, Juan Caldúa, Eric Albino (ambos peruanos) e Edgar Parra (Equador) em uma jornada de 15 horas de ida e volta do campo contados Avançado 1 (5,350).

Escalada Huascaran por The Shield.
Fotos: Eric Albino.
Clique para ampliar.
The Shield é uma parede no interior da cúpula principal do Huascarán. Sua diicultades principais são a inclinação e vem muito perto do cume. O trio teve que se mudar do dia anterior à CA1. Em 16 de fora de seu campo e depois de 1:40 pm, alcançou o bergschrund onde "os problemas estão apenas começando", porque as condições do gelo eram muito ruins: grandes rachaduras e pontes de gelo frágil para aqueles que tiveram que rastejar para atravessar .
"Depois de desenhar um passo na bergschrund (85-90 graus por cerca de quatro metros de altitude) na parte da tarde dijamos um comprimento de 60 metros" e depois voltaram para o acampamento para descansar por algumas horas. Às 01h20min, em 17 começou a subida final.

"Atravessamos o acesso bergschrund à parede com facilidade graças ao nosso corda fixa, mas em torno de cerca de 6000 metros estão situados não muito confiável de gelo, duro, o que realmente nos colocou ao pé da gigantesca parede de Huascaran The Shield".
"Os primeiros 240 metros de parede, fazemo-lo na montagem de uma rampa de gelo e neve compacta partes soltas com inclinações de até 75 graus. A insegurança de escalada de gelo duro nos deu, por isso, é muito robusto e inclui estourar. Esse trecho deve ter parafusos de gelo bom para a velocidade de escalada e segurança. "

"Após esta área técnica e nós terrenos mistos, a neve eo gelo duro, para um comprimento de 240 metros. Esta seção é mais seguro e mais confiável. Enquanto o primeiro roped up, os dois últimos materiais foram recuperados. Exceto para a corda fixa, escalada em estilo alpino foi montagem. Cada torneira foi a nossa vez de partilhar experiências e para poupar energia para o topo. "
"Este mesmo sistema vai empregar no resto da parede. Mais tarde na parede mostra a neve embalado e seguro. Houve um tempo quando o muro caiu da encosta para 50-65 graus, nós terminamos The Shield, mas ainda devemos ir para o topo da serra a cerca de 300 metros. Aqui nós nos juntamos a rota normal até o cume sul do Huascarán, o que nos levou até o cume. "

"Nós estávamos lá às 13:00, mas desta vez nós não desfrutar da imagem, porque o tempo estava ruim, com muitos nibes e nevasca."
"The Shield é catalogdefinido a escala da UIAA dificuldade da seguinte forma: D top (hard top), 50 º (a passagem de quatro metros bergschrund foi de 90 graus), a 600 metros de altitude e fizemos 11:20 upstream e downstream quatro bivouac sem intervalo, para um total de horas de 15:20. "
"O material utilizado foi o de corda de 60 metros (um reserva), parafusos de gelo e estacas de neve. Não abandonou qualquer. "

土曜日2011年8月20日。 第306

シールドによるワスカラン山を登る

レート：

グローバル評価：

クライマーは、エクアドルとペルーは昨年7月に壁ワスカランシールドを登ってロープで。

エリックアルビヌス 、 登山チーム

ワスカラン（6768メートル）の3つの登山者がルートシールド、ペルーで最も高い山にのぼった一緒にロープで。 上昇は7月17日フアンCaldúa、アルビノエリック（両方ペルー人）とエドガーパーラ（エクアドル）のAdvanced 1をカウントフィールド（5.350）から15時間往復の旅にそれをやった。

シールドによるワスカランを登る。
写真：エリックアルビノ。
クリックすると拡大します。
シールドは、ワスカランの主な頂上内側の壁です。 その主なdiicultadesは傾きであり、頂上のすぐ近くに来る。 トリオはCA1に前日に移動しなければならなかった。 彼らのキャンプ中16上及び午後1時40分後に、氷の状態が非常に悪かったので、"問題はまだ始まったばかりされている"ベルグシュルントに達する：交差するクロールしていた人のための大きな亀裂ともろい氷の橋を。
"午後にベルグシュルントの段階（高度約4メートルの85〜90度）を描画した後、60メートルの長さをdijamos"してから数時間の休息にキャンプに戻った。 01:20 17日に最終的な上昇が始まった。

"我々は、固定ロープに容易のおかげで、壁にベルグシュルントのアクセスを超えましたが、周りは約6000メートルは本当にワスカランシールドの巨大な壁のふもとに私たちを入れ、非常に信頼性がない、硬い氷を、配置されています。"
壁の"最初の240メートルで、我々は最大75度までの傾斜と氷とコンパクトな雪緩んだ部品の傾きによる組み立てでそれを行う。 ハードアイスクライミングの不安は、私たちを与えた、従ってそれは非常に堅牢であり、バーストが含まれています。 このストレッチは、クライミングと安全性の速度に優れた氷のネジが必要です。"

"240メートルの長さのため、この技術領域の後、我々は、地形、雪と硬い氷を混合。 このセクションでは、より安全で信頼性が高くなります。 最初のアップロープでいる間、最後の二つは、材料を回収した。 固定ロープを除いて、クライミングアルパインスタイルでは、アセンブリにあった。 各タップには、経験を共有し、トップのためのエネルギーを節約するために私達の回転だった。"
"これと同じシステムでは、壁の残りの部分に採用します。 後壁にパックされた雪と安全を示しています。 壁が50から65度まで傾斜を下ってきた時があった、私たちはシールドを終えたが、それでも我々は300メートルほどの尾根の上に行く必要があります。 ここでは、頂上に私たちを導いたワスカランの南側頂上に通常のルートに参加。"

"我々は13:00にあったが、天気が悪かったので、今回は多くのnibesと吹雪で、画像を享受していない。"
"シールドは、次のように難易度のUIAAの規模catalogdefinidoです：Dのトップ（ハードトップ）、50℃（ベルグシュルントが90度あった4メートルの通路）、標高600メートル、我々は、11:20をしました15：20時間の合計のための休憩なしでアップストリームとダウンストリーム× 4ビバーク、。"
"使用される材料は、ロープは60メートル（つのスペア）、氷のネジと雪の賭けだった。 いずれかを放棄しない。"

토요일 2011년 8월 20일. 번호 306

방패로 Huascaran 클라이밍

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글로벌 등급 :

등산은 에콰도르와 페루는 지난 7 월 벽에 Huascaran 방어막을 올랐다 roped.

에릭 Albinus , 등산 팀

Huascaran (6천7백68미터) : 세 등산 국도 방패, 페루에서 가장 높은 산을 집계 함께 roped. 상승 15 시간 고급 1 (5.350)을 계산 필드에서 왕복의 여정을 7 월 17 일 후안 Caldúa, 에릭 (페루 모두) 알비노와 에드거 파라 (에콰도르)에 해냈어.

방패로 Huascaran을 등산.
사진 : 에릭 알비노.
확대하려면 클릭하십시오.
방어막이 Huascaran의 주요 정상 내부 벽입니다. 주요 diicultades는 기울기이고 정상 아주 가까이 온다. 트리오는 CA1에 전날 이동했다. 자신의 캠프에서 16 일 얼음 상태가 아주 나쁜 있었기 때문에 1시 40분의시 이후, "문제는 단지 시작했습니다"bergschrund 도착 : 자들을위한 대형 균열 및 연약한 얼음 다리를 건너 크롤 링을 .
"오후에 bergschrund의 단계 (해발 약 사m에 대한 85-90도)를 그리기 후 60 미터의 길이를 dijamos"다음 몇 시간 동안 나머지 캠프으로 돌아왔습니다. 1시 20분에서 17 최종 상승이 시작되었습니다.

"우리는 우리의 고정 로프에 쉽게 덕분으로 벽에 bergschrund 액세스를 넘었지만, 주위에 대한 6천미터 정말 Huascaran 방패의 거대한 벽의 산기슭에 우리를 넣어 매우 신뢰성이 아니라, 하드 얼음, 있습니다."
"벽의 첫 번째 240m, 우리는 최대 75 도까지 얼음과 슬로프와 소형 눈 느슨한 부분의 경사에 의해 조립에있어. 하드 얼음 등반 불안정가 준, 따라서 그것은 매우 강력하고 폭발이 포함되어 있습니다. 이 스트레치는 등산과 안전의 속도로 좋은 얼음 나사가 있어야합니다. "

"이 기술 분야 후, 우리는 혼합 지형, 240 미터의 길이에 대한 눈과 얼음 열심히. 이 섹션에서는 안전하고 더 신뢰할 수 있습니다. 첫 번째가 roped 동안, 마지막 두 물질을 회수했다. 고정 로프를 제외하고, 등산 알파인 스타일은 어셈블리되었습니다. 각 탭 경험을 공유하고 상단에 에너지를 저장하기 위해 설정되었다. "
"이 같은 시스템은 벽의 나머지 부분에 채용됩니다. 나중에 벽에 포장 눈과 안전을 보여줍니다. 벽에가 50-65 도까지 기울기를 왔을 때 시간이 있었는데, 우리는 여성을 완성하지만 저희는 300m에 대한 능선의 상단으로 이동합니다. 여기서 우리는 정상 우리를 이끌었 Huascaran의 남쪽 정상에 정상적인 경로를 참여. "

"우리는 13:00에 있었지만, 날씨가 많이 nibes와 블리자드와 나쁜했기 때문에 이번에 우리는 그림을 즐겨하지 않는다"고 말했다.
"방패는 다음과 어려움 UIAA의 규모 catalogdefinido입니다 : D 톱 (단단한), 50 º (bergschrund 90도 태어나고, 4 미터의 통과), 고도 600 미터 우리는 오전 11시 20분 했어요 15시 20분 시간 총 휴식 시간없이 상류 넷 하류 비부악. "
"사용 소재 로프 60m (한 예비), 얼음 및 눈 나사 내기했다. 를 포기하지 않습니다. "

星期六2011年8月20日。 第306号

攀登盾Huascaran

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全球评价：

一个登山者拉拢一个厄瓜多尔和秘鲁爬上墙Huascaran去年七月的盾牌。

埃里克阿尔比努斯 ， 登山队

登山拉拢在一起的三达路，在秘鲁最高的山峰之盾：Huascaran（6768米）。 兴起并于7月17日，胡安Caldúa，埃里克白化（包括秘鲁人）和埃德加帕拉（厄瓜多尔）在15个小时，从算高级1（5.350）外地往返旅程了。

攀登盾Huascaran。
组图：埃里克白化。
点击放大。
屏蔽是里面的Huascaran主要峰会墙。 其主要diicultades是倾角和非常接近到山顶。 三人只好移到前一天到CA1。 16他们的营地出来后，下午1时40分，达到了bergschrund哪里“的问题才刚刚开始”，因为冰条件十分恶劣：大裂缝并为那些谁曾体弱爬冰桥跨越。
“dijamos画完后，下午在bergschrund步骤（85-90约四米的海拔度）为60米的长度”，然后回到营地休息了几个小时。 在17日01:20开始，最后上升。

“我们越过bergschrund访问墙轻松感谢我们的固定绳索，但周围约6000仪表位于不很可靠，坚冰，从而真正把我们带到了巨大的Huascaran的盾墙脚下。”
“第一个240米的墙，我们在组装它由冰和雪紧凑与斜坡松动的部分高达75度的斜坡。 硬攀冰不安全给了我们，所以这是非常强大，包括破裂。 这应具有良好的伸展冰螺丝的攀登速度和安全。“

“在这个技术领域，我们的混合地形，雪和冰硬了240米的长度。 本节是更安全，更可靠。 虽然第一拉拢起来，最后两人回收物料。 除固定绳，爬高山风格汇编。 每个水龙头是轮到我们分享经验，并保存为最高的能量。“
“这同一个系统将采用在墙上休息。 后来显示在墙上包装雪和安全。 曾经有一段时间当柏林墙倒塌，以50-65度的斜坡，我们完成了盾，但我们仍然应该去约300米的山脊之上。 在这里，我们加入正常途径的Huascaran南方首脑会议，这使我们的峰会。“

“我们有在13:00，但这次我们不喜欢的图片，因为天气不好许多nibes和暴风雪。”
他说：“盾是catalogdefinido如下规模的难度UIAA：D顶（硬顶），50 °（即四米bergschrund呈90度通道），海拔600米，我们做上午11时20分上游下游露营和四个不设中场休息时间为15:20，共计“。
“这种材料用的是绳60米（一个备用），冰和雪螺丝的股份。 不放弃任何“。