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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Lower Domingo Baca Slabs (A...
By: Alam When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ron -
Thanks for the historical details. As I have already said very little in the Sandia's is new - we continue to rediscover or cross routes done a while ago.
Note - this anchor has not been replaced yet. It has been on my list of ones to get to, but I got waylaid by a knee injury. Now we know it is a single bolt placed in 76! As noted in the PDF topo some of the bolts on "simply replaced" came out with a simple tug, while others were more rigorous. Treated this bolt on top with caution!!! ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Crossroads (5.10a)
By: Alam When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lets first say that this route is A LOT cleaner than it was when I first ventured on it in 97 and again in 01. Each previous time we cleaned heavily - and vowed never to return again!
There are some beautiful sections of rock on this route, as well as some time bombs. Many of these larger blocks are lose - but are "keyed" in and may never come off (especially on P3). It is un-nerving to have blocks rattle around. This weekend we still cleaned off a few lose "brief case size" pieces on P1 and P2... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: Alam When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 and P2 can be combined as noted by George. The cave (and tight rope drag) can be avoided by exiting the dihedral about 10 feet before the cave (there is a little alcove here) to the RIGHT to gain the belay ledge. This requires a 60 M rope.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : The Odyssey (5.10a)
By: Alam When: Feb 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2, P3 and P4 are great.
I just wanted to add a warning. We ran P4 and P5 together racing a thunderstorm this last summer. Somewhere in the middle of following P5 I took a large rock to the helmet - obviously the rope knocked it lose. We had gone straight up from the last 2 bolt anchor and stumbled into a LOT of lose stuff - probably best to angle right. Heads up.
Also - we ended up rappelling in a little off target and rap through "Cowboys Delight". Not pretty - luckily someone had added a n... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: Alam When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks John for bringing back an old classic. During the traverse right from the notch (the way I have done this route) there is a pin high in a dihedral that can be used to protect the traverse (it has been there since at least 1990). I find I had to climb up to clip it, step back down and complete the traverse. I have always traversed considerably further right - ending near your new 2 bolt anchor for Ghost Rider, then climbing the flakes and crack up the final dihedral LEFT of your newly bol... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: Alam When: Feb 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As mentioned in the description there are a lot of variations to the different pitches. For example you need to push P2 belay up as far as you think you can in order to link P3 and P4, otherwise you may come up about 10 feet short using a 60 meter rope. Also - the first photo of the starting dihedral (black rock) shows the major dihedral that is commonly wet after a rain storm (and can be slick). There is also a very nice dihedral that starts in the left corner of the same photo that can be cli... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Ghost Rider (5.10 PG13)
By: Alam When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ghost Rider - 10a, Another great route, with very good rock.
Pitch 1 - the seam starts about 60 feet to the left of where bush shark spire joins the main wall (not 60 feet to the left of the bush shark start). The start is really at the toe of the route. With good eyes you can see the 2 bolts at the first belay from the ground.
Pitch 2 - work up right and clip a bolt and then work staright up on the face past assorted bolts.
Pitch 2 variation - clip first bolt, and then trend left on ramp sys... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Big - T (5.10c)
By: Alam When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Big T is a stunning route for the Sandias. Rock quality is great. I found the last pitch to be harder than 5.10C even though it was my partner who lead that pitch (perhaps 10.d is more accurate), but then again I may be getting old.
From a historical note this route starts about 25 feet to the left of Threshhold (see old Hills sandia guide), which is again about 25 feet to the left of the bush shark spire start.
The first pitch ends at a 2 bolt belay and is about 25 feet to the left of the... more >>
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