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Member Since: Aug 14, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

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All 625 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts | Stars 428 | Ratings 176

Contributed Comments


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : The Throne (5.12-)
By: akline When: Sep 11, 2014

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Comments: The gear is good, and straightforward (not big stoppers) but if your belayer isn't paying attention you could still hit the ledge. I thought this route all came down to one move, but it is a hard move!

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casablanca (5.9)
By: akline When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: i can't believe the girl in the photo put a cam behind that flake and it is still there! the climbing is not hard, but the protection in the roofs is sketchy, those flakes definitely move and the pitons that are in place to protect them are bad, at best. i backed up the first pitch rappel tree with a tricam on 5/20/14 because that tree is certainly half alive.

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Mordor Wall (5.6 C2)
By: akline When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: as of 6/15/13 there are no usable bashies in place after the bolt in the seam on pitch two. The dead heads left are no good for hooking, i almost hooked micro features up to the belay before a small crystal i was hooking exploded and sent me for a big one. felt really hard the way i found it, but with usable bashies in place i would call pitch two freaky C3-.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Mac-Reppy (5.11a)
By: akline When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: I don't usually comment on routes, but I thought the other comments were a little sandbagged. I thought this climb was a one move gunks 5.11 and that the one move was really hard, like solid 5.11 hard and being tall doesn't help much. I am 6'1 and have climbed many 5.11's and 12's in the Gunks. Take that for whatever it's worth.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: akline When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: JSH-
i checked with a very prominent local who told me that someone had top-roped it before as "space invaders direct"

Location: CT : CT Ice Climbing : Thomaston Ice Climbing (clo...
By: akline When: Dec 17, 2011

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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Comedy In Three Acts (5.11)
By: akline When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Even with the tiny nut holding, if you blow the crux you could slam your heels into the ledge that you start the crux sequence from. I've seen it happen a few times and it's not a nice fall.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : April Showers (5.11a/b PG13)
By: akline When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: there is an alternate start to this route which goes at 5.11+. start three feet right of the original start where there are two very small crimpers on the face above the wide crack. move strait up the face to under the roof, then move left and join original route.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Space Invaders (5.10d)
By: akline When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: what is the face to the left of this? anybody know? you do the crimper section on space invaders, then instead of moving right to where the climber in the picture is, you go strait up on more small holds. gear wasn't too good...

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Glypnod (5.8)
By: akline When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: The initial corner is very fun, then you have to climb some run-out 5.4 to the GT and belay under the right facing corner.
The last pitch of this is burly. It felt like hard Gunks 5.9 to me, with an MF-quality pump factor. The gear is great on the last pitch though. Overall the whole climb was dirty, but I think with some travel this would be a great route, and unique for the Gunks because of the crack climbing.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Still Crazy After All These... (5.10a/b)
By: akline When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: i agree with david. small run-outs down low on so-so gear, and then you do a long run-out through the crux, but the gear you are climbing above at this point is bomber, just long fall potential. heads-up for sure

Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Great Head : Morning Glory Alcove : Morning Glory (5.8+)
By: akline When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: if you clip your rappel line to the second bolt on your way down, when you pull your rope it won't go in the drink.

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