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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Cyclops Boulder : Cyclops (V3 PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an awesome problem, it's better if you can manage with out using the arete at all. A long reach off the dish, superb!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Dirty Old Man (5.10)
By: Airbiscuit When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it weren't for the old angle above the point where the chimney tapers down I might say yes. But I remember that angle being OLD I mean really old. Maybe John came in from another direction to the big ledge and that's where the newer bolts came from. Joel A and partner (?) did the back side route.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : The Book of Pleasure (5.10 C1+)
By: Airbiscuit When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pitch 2 aid section was freed today on TR w/ one hang and the roof P4 was sent on lead @ 5.Hard! There is also an extreme choss factor on these two pitches. All the important bolts have been replaced with 3/8" & 1/2" at the belays. Much thanks to whoever did this.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument
By: Airbiscuit When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're probably talking about "Midnight Rider". 2 pitches. Bring your cowboy boots and your big guns.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Pipe Organ Spire - South We... (5.10+ C2 PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are correct Ben. Changes made. Whoops.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack o... (5.6 A1 PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this tower in relation to Safeway Spire and the Angular Motion Buttress?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: May 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quit teasing us. Where's the topo?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Airbiscuit When: Feb 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: No anchor there when we did it back in '98. Shame folks counldn't leave well enough alone and climb another 30 feet of bolt ladder. Instead of busting out the drill right away. Burns' memory must have been a little cloudy when he gave the topo to Eric. I really don't think there ever was a belay at the top of the chimney.
Bryan, we did have a bit of trouble finding the bolt ladder as you. I recall we climbed to high in the chinmey and had to downclimb and then move over via some face moves.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good for a quick half day, One pitch with a seventy if you have the runners, make things easy on yourself and rap it in two. Without two ropes, you will have trouble getting off if you are even a hair short. Both variations are of quality, I prefer to go straight up I don't think that things are that loose or maybe that big block has been trundled. If doing things in two, keep going till you hit the big ledge with the triple chains. I wouldn't hang my hat off those ancient ring angles below t... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple
By: Airbiscuit When: Aug 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony,
The Colorado National Monument has adopted a current policy of banning the establishment of all new fixed anchors, this doesn't mean it does not happen, but be warned. It could mean serious trouble with "THE FEDS". However, there is a new climbing ranger in town, and I have heard that he is at least open to discussion. Hopefully, as a community, we can impress upon him that the climbing here is really good, but there are serious safety issues with getting down off of some of these thi... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right up there with some of the best of the Momument, definitely top five. The stone is just plain killer.
Do the first two as one. 5.9ish to the top of the pillar, to a 5.11b sport like crux followed by a good rest and then commit to another 5.11c sportsh high step. If you are feeling strong, don't cheat yourself on either crux, what you are going for is pretty good. The gear is sold with thin cams and medium RP's (definitely a must). I lived up to my handle several times on this pitch! Do... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Get A Life (5.12c R)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most aesthetic and sustained routes in the Monument! Simply awesome, bring your big guns cause you are gonna need them!!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a few suggestions,
I thought this one was GREAT! Way fun climbing and totally adventurous. I dissagree with the finish on P3 as I recall if you go climbers left you risk a pretty big swinger into the corner and it's got some sharpness to it! I climbed over there to the "sucker ledge" but downclimbed gripped out of my gourd not willing to risk the grungy slab above. There's finger size gear in the peg crack to the right, that's the way Teal and Miller went. I found all the pitches pret... more >>
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