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Member Since: Feb 17, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Airbiscuit
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Point Rank: # 804
Total Points: 983
Last Year: 40
Last 30 Days: 3
94 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Airbiscuit been climbing?










Contributions


All 278 | Routes 39 | Areas 6 | Photos 91 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 46 | Stars 44 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Irishman's Temple: Otto's E... (5.9+)
By: Airbiscuit When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: "It may be best to have had a few real Monument experiences before attempting."

Funny stuff for those who know. Good job, 4 now? 3 of them FAs. Solid work.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : The Chameleon (5.12d PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, I'm James, it always kinda irked me they got my name wrong in the book, but such is life. We had a great couple of year's there in the late '90s and early 2000s. So many classic routes put up by the who's who of climbing: Chouinard, Barber, Kees, Stump, Fowler, Lowe, Long, Hill, and Wilford. They're all in there. We felt honored to be there learning the way it truly should be done by climb... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : The Chameleon (5.12d PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Stover not Stevens on the FFA, and go ahead. I don't mind, and I'm sure John doesn't either at this stage of the game, although it was more his baby than mine. We were stickclipping the first bolt. It's all gas pedal through there. At the top, I can't remember if we were being lazy or just figuring if you just sent 5.12/13 (we though probably 13-), then 5.10/11 wouldn't be that... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Cottonwood Canyon / Fisher ... : Mickey Mouse Club Tower (5.9 C2)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Wow, Micky, how did you guys find that?


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Gateway : Brighams Peters Tower (aka ...
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Honestly, I could care less. Trident is actually a very fitting name. All I know is what I was told when I asked the old guard. I've been around here close to twenty years and have never met anyone who even knew it was there let alone climbed it. I figured Fowler has gotten it but never got any conformation, and I kept forgetting to ask Keith Reynolds and Alan Stevenson about it when they were around. Next time I run into Keith I'll ask what knows. I know they did some routes on the Visor ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Gateway : ... : Banana Hammock (5.11)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Brigham Peters came from Stu Green and Cam Burns, Cam did one of the other routes on it. Stu had some notes on it too from Bjiornstad. Got to admit I was a little bummed. I had been to the base of this line in 2003 for a scope. Didn't get serious about it till 11 years later. Good job, guys. We split the pitches up different, but the end result was the same. Fantastic climbing on a wild tower in a super remote setting. Done in good style, too! Props.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast (5.10 C1)
By: Airbiscuit When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: The summit pitch on this route is one of the worst pitches in The Monument. Probably only 5.8 but a pretty scary 5.8.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 16, 2016

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Comments: Rap at the dead tree (bomber med. nut for backup) and a full 70 will get you down past anything sketchy. I think a 60 will probably make it too, but I haven't climbed on a 60 in ages. If there's snow it won't matter, which I bet there will be.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Anchorage & South Central I... : Caribou Creek : Kid's Corner (WI3) : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Is that Jamie? Still getting after it.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : Mt Wake : East Face (WI5 M5)
By: Airbiscuit When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: Damn, stole my thunder, I always heard it as a picket and a set of nuts :)


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Dynamite Shacks : The Ridge : Dynamite Cliff Band : Medusa's Knees (V7)
By: Airbiscuit When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: The holds on this rig were scrubbed more than 15 years ago. As with most things around here, if you're not climbing V8 or harder or did some serious landing excivation, it's most likely been done.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Lizards & Scorpions w/ Sky ... (5.11+ PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: I never said anything about down soloing. The multiple times I have done it this way, we roped up and downclimbed with gear, it takes ten minutes, one rope, and is totally cruser. At the time, I had not done the rappel to the top of the 1st pitch, and it looked like a rope over that huge roof would leave you hanging in space.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Le Veuve Noire (5.9 C1+) : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice work, boys, she's been waiting for you.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : The Gypsies
By: Airbiscuit When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Yes, I should probably change that just to avoid confusion, originally we thought upper Gypsy was the wide butte separated from the rim, but after talking with Luke about anchors and rereading DR, we realized that it was not in the book. It's a good climb, on the side that faces the Grand Junction entrance kiosk.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Organ Pipe Spire (5.8+ C1 PG13)
By: Airbiscuit When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Getting to the Pipe Dream anchor is sketchy too. "Aces & Eights" is a much better way off that side. Good ledges on the way down 3 raps with one seventy meter.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Red Canyon : Supercrack Buttress : Wiggle Worm (5.11)
By: Airbiscuit When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: This rig is sweet looking!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Reba Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Blue started seated on the two lower holds. Even when I was in good shape, I never bouldered harder than V7, so I have to say probably in the V6/7 range. There use to be a single, tiny, egg nodule to help with the smear on the right foot. It's a funny one because the dyno needs a reach, but the if you're too tall, it hoses you on the lower part. The other two I don't really remember. The best problem on this boulder is on the backside climbing out of the cave and making a long reach to a goo... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill
By: Airbiscuit When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: While I absolutely applaud the new route activity going on on the long overlooked walls lining this canyon, you guys need to start using painted hangers. It is getting pretty bad. You can bet the land managers see it too.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+)
By: Airbiscuit When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Next team to go to the top bettter bring a drill. These 2 summit 1/4"s are starting to have some pretty good wiggle to them.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: On the backside of this boulder, there's a sweet problem coming out of the cave and up the slab. Look for a hidden hold!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: I put up most of these Boulders in the early 2000s. This one is the Bucket Racer Boulder after that sick, three dish to a massive dyno on the left side. I had names for most of the boulders in this area, but I really don't remember. It's been too long ago. Good stuff though.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Bucket Racer Boulders. There's some goods in that area.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Gold Star Canyon : Bouncing Betty Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Airbiscuit When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Eagle Plume Tower in the foreground and Terra Tower off in the distance.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : Pitchfork Tower - From the ... (5.8)
By: Airbiscuit When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: This is absolutely the coolest, most fun, & steepest climbing for the grade of any tower that I have done. Really cool, clean chimneying. Super cruiser, 1 long pitch. A great find!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Oompah Tower - Ethan Putter... (5.9 C1)
By: Airbiscuit When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Totally blew past the 1st anchor no problem. I went straight up instead of moving left into the other crack system, you can traverse the ledge up top pretty easy. Also a single 70m gets you to the ground from the 2nd belay but not with much to spare. Cruiser and fun, if this thing wasn't tucked so far back in there, it would see a lot more traffic.


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