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Member Since: Nov 10, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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AhK
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Point Rank: # 2,163
Total Points: 293
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 42
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has AhK been climbing?










Contributions


All 104 | Routes 9 | Areas 2 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 4 | Stars 28 | Ratings 8

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : Every Which Way But Loose (5.10)
By: AhK When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Pete de Lannoy wrote a pretty epic short story about the FA of this route that can be found at the following link for $0.99 on Kindle.

amazon.com/Tales-Edge-Never-Be...


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Wicked Picket : Conn Route (5.8-)
By: AhK When: 6 days ago

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Comments: A single 70m rope will get you down the East side with a few feet to spare.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : Cat's Meow (5.9+)
By: AhK When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: A great route that should be done in its entirety! Micro gear keeps P3 reasonable.

At the end of P1, I built a comfortable anchor on the huge, flat ledge rather than suffer a hanging belay at the rap anchors. From P1 ledge, getting to the base of P3 is super low-angle 4th class with zero exposure. The only way this would make you queasy is if you get scared hiking up the Spires trail.

Pitch Breakdown
P1: 5.9+, 150' ****
P2: 4th, ~40?
P3: 5.9+, 120' ***


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Conn Diagonal (5.7)
By: AhK When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: "Finding 2 people coming after waiting at the base for 3 hours and have them say "I don't feel comfortable with a party of 3" - Douchebags!" - Seth Hogan

Sandbagged, scary, and the locals won't climb with you. Be sure to tell all your greenie friends how terrible South Dakota is.


Location: adrea : Misc Photos : Photo
By: AhK When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: I have definitely seen this picture before in the Craigmaster's van!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire One : Photo
By: AhK When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: it's a single team of two.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : East Lies Iron Hills : The Eye of Sauron (5.11- PG13)
By: AhK When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: low crux and a thinker top? sounds like a new needles classic! can't wait to try it! keep up the good work, fellas!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boat... (5.10d)
By: AhK When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Great stemming and liebacking at the beginning with great locks. Green Alien/red C3 is perfect for the crux and a bomber nut can be had right before starting the lieback at the top. I agree that the description of the last section is spot on. Spicy but safe!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Gun Has No Trigger (5.11+ PG13)
By: AhK When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: hirsch, a sandbagger?? NO!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Photographer's Peak : Cowboy Jazz (5.8)
By: AhK When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: There is a sweet alternative to the original second pitch that offers fun movement, a few spicy sections, and a great path to the summit.

I’m unsure of the FA party or if it has a name but I’ve heard it affectionately referred to as “Pillar de Femme.” This pitch climbs the wrinkled left side of the pillar that splits the SW face.

If attempting this pitch, climb 15’ past the anchors atop P1 and sling a large, perfect horn after a ramp for a much more comfortable belay.

Pillar de Fe... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Photographer's Peak : Just Another Pretty Face (5.8)
By: AhK When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: I have the FA listed as Paul Muehl, Gene Larson, and Howard Doyle, Aug. 4, 1984.

Not sure which guide this info came from - maybe Tolle's? Take it with a grain of salt. Brent was around then, I was yet to be born.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Whaling Wall : Cyanide (5.9+)
By: AhK When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Cyanide, from Muehl's Blue Book, seems to fit the description.

FA: Howard Doyle, Phil Sena, and Paul Muehl, Aug. 5, 1984.

Any insight, Brent?


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall : The Naked Rib (5.10c R) : Photo
By: AhK When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: The red x's show where to set the belay, but there are no belay anchors. Sling a large flake to belay.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : West Buttress (5.8)
By: AhK When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Hmm, interesting.. Sounds like it may be appropriate to change the name of this page to West Buttress Variation? Does anyone else have more info?


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock : Four Little Fishies (5.9)
By: AhK When: Mar 19, 2012

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Comments: No nuts or cams are needed for the belay, just a sling and some creativity.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : The Wave (5.10+)
By: AhK When: Mar 11, 2012

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Comments: Bring more .5 and .75 than recommended and save some for the bulge after the ledge. Definitely the hardest 10+ I've been on in the Creek.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Torech Ungol : Shelob (5.10)
By: AhK When: Dec 23, 2011

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Comments: FA: Paul Muehl, Howard Doyle, and Eric Janoscrat, Aug. 1, 1983.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : Buck Shot Eyes and a Purple... (5.10+)
By: AhK When: Dec 23, 2011

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Comments: This thing is sweet! Stout, well protected, and not the usual Needles crystal pincher. Expect some big moves between good holds on steep rock. After the steepness, a pumpy jug haul leads to the chains. Get out and do it!

FA: Paul Piana, Paul Muehl, and Charlie Brumbaugh, 1990.

1 bolt and anchors replaced by Bergdale, McNabb and Hirsch on 10/2/11.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : High Point : I Gotta Take a Crack (5.8+)
By: AhK When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Touch the Sky also says that Flight 714 is 30 feet past End Pin (towards Podunk Pinnacle.) The description of Endo (5.8) says the obvious crack on the NW corner. (The crack just around the corner to climber's right of Tunes.)

Judging by Brent Larsen's rating and description, I believe the route this page refers to is the easier crack closer to the road, Endo, although I could be wrong.

Either way, the FA info is incorrect.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : High Point : I Gotta Take a Crack (5.8+)
By: AhK When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: I believe this crack is directly East of End Pin, North would be toward the road.

This crack is called Endo. FA: Jim Black and Pete Delannoy, June 14, 1986.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bell Tower : For Whom the Bell Tolls (5.11b R)
By: AhK When: Nov 16, 2011

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Comments: Tim, you're probably right. The last 30 feet is by no means atypical for the Needles, with the exception that its not a jug haul. There is potential for a BIG ride and also a small possibility of hitting the belay ledge if you fell near the final anchors. This was my reasoning for the R rating.

If you can get past the final bolt, there's very little chance of falling after it. Most climbers who are familiar with the area would probably agree that PG-13 is a fair rating.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire five : Beethoven's Fifth (5.9+)
By: AhK When: May 11, 2011

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Comments: To my knowledge, Beethoven's Fifth has only been published in one old guide book and does not see much traffic. Judging by the webbing at the top (5/8/11), I'd guess it hasn't seen an attempt for some years.

The route protects pretty well with small gear, and falls would be clean. Even though this route probably hasn't seen many attempts, the rock quality is great!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: AhK When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Looking for information on a variation of Garfield. Instead of traversing to the ledge on P2, there is a crack that goes straight up past a tree to anchors with webbing. Anyone know anything about this crack?


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