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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Sun Wall Area : Sun Wall Middle (5.10b)
By: Aerili When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sling anchor above Sun Wall Left looks old; I preferred to build a gear anchor. We did use the sling anchor to lower to Sun Wall Left's open shuts, pulled the rope, then set up a rap from there. I intend to replace the slings at the top with new webbing next time I am out there and climb this route.
A local who is creating a new guide to the area also said he intends to change the anchors at the top of Sun Wall Left at some point (I think).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : Illusion Dweller (5.10b)
By: Aerili When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am fascinated at all the diverse comments and varying opinions about "where the crux is"!
The first 15-20 feet was not that cruxy to me; I had solid hand and foot jams the whole way (and apparently the right movement skills to go with). I felt much more desperate on the upper third as you're getting close to the roof--there was a wide but shallow section here that left me doing gripping hand stacks while making more of those weird-balance angling moves.
Ultimately, the roof did ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).
Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying??
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Location: suprasoup : Muralla Grande : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are using up your lives, boy.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Anal Sex (5.8 X) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You actually get two good pieces on the upper third of the face here: one is the piece directly below me in this pic; the other can be placed right before the finish.
The other two apparent pieces of pro below me are little more than psychological and unfortunately would be unlikely to stop a splatter fall off the balancey start. I suggest guardian angels as your back-up.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : East Face : Lurch (5.8)
By: Aerili When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two-bolt anchor for this route has chains and can be rapped with a 60 m rope (if the second pitch looks uninspiring...which it kinda does).
After topping out the roof, traverse slightly right, clip a (somewhat older) bolt down low, and finish 20' of face climbing to the anchors by going either just right or just left of the bolt (I went right). I found this section to be the crux mentally of the route as there is no pro to be had and a bad, bad fall awaits (i.e. free-fall onto the slab bel... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An awesome, awesome shot! I want to be your partner in this picture!! :)
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Half Hit (5.9+ R)
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely not an R.
This crack feels really polished for some reason and, in the sun on a moderately warm day, I almost thought I was going to grease off on the upper half (right before it eases off). I couldn't tell which was going to go first: my jam greasing out of the crack or my foot greasing off the tiny nub I was standing on. (Luckily, neither happened.) Summon your sticky willpower accordingly.
(Also, try wearing shoes that aren't too big for you and have some chalk in your chalk... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Unknown (5.10b PG13)
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, I lead this route in shade and I also rated it somewhere between 10b-10c (and I, uh, like slab). I agree the start is heads up! The cruxiest part for me was the move directly after leaving your first clipping stance...seemed really difficult in terms of balance and ultra-committing with the feet on marginal smears.
Short people may have a harder time clipping the first bolt from the most optimal stance: my partner was 5'1" and there is no way she could have clipped from where I stood ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors that are just right of The Slash and Unknown (the 5.10 bolted face) are in VERY bad condition! They are handmade, old, rusty and somewhat spinner; additionally, someone has slathered glue all around the base of each but it is totally less than inspiring.
There are other, newer bolts farther right of these, but they do not have rap hangers installed on them.
It is possible to walk off much farther to the right of this wall (i.e. kinda 'next wall over'-ish), and I sugges... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Nova Express (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, Newton, you such a funny, funny guy....
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Location: AZ : Chiricahua National Monumen... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haaaa--I believe you are right!
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Location: AZ : Chiricahua National Monumen... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I assure you the Chiricahuas are not in NM! (You put the pic in the right location on the site itself, but your photo label is incorrect.)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Marshmallow Safari (5.10) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn if I don't know that guy. He did claim he used to have skill... :D
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Corn Flakes (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.
I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hol... more >>
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Location: Aerili : The Way I Are : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highway 88 east of South Lake Tahoe as you head toward Gardnerville/Minden.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fantastic and incorporates so many facets of climbing technique.
I was surprised to see how many people thought this was 9+/10a. I flashed this route yesterday (as one pitch, with a hole in my shoe, ha) and hadn't considered myself a true, solid 10a leader as of this moment, but perhaps it's all in the style.
The gear recommendation of pro to 3" baffles me. You certainly do not need anything over 1". Also, be sure to take plenty of very small cams (that would be <@SEMICOLO... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Breadloaves : Super Hits Wall : Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: Aerili When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: PERFECT hand and foot girl jams on the starting crack; lieback, what?!
You can lower off and clean with a 60 m rope as well--just have your belayer tie a knot at the end.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Coyote Corner (5.8)
By: Aerili When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is okay for a chimney and a warm-up, but I don't know how it got 1 star (out of 3) in the guidebook. I agree with the description that it "appears to be classic" from a distance, but it is not really that great up close and personal.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Aerili When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look for forgotten draws to booty on the last bolt before the chains. (The bolt in question is quite pointless in placement and could be easily missed if cleaning unclipped draws on rappel.)
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Batwings (5.8+)
By: Aerili When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although my City experience is limited, I think this is one of the BEST routes I have done there! A MUST-DO!!
It is true rope drag is a non-issue if you can wait to put in gear until the first bulgey move (with 48" runner) and a 24" sling on your second piece to protect the traverse move.
DO IT, DO IT!! :)
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A totally frame-able shot! Excellent.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Sun Wall Area : Sun Wall Right (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My nickname for this route is 'Scary Airy.' :)
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Location: Brigette : The Girls : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a truly great portrait shot of a pooch. Nice job!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Rapid Transit (5.10a/b PG13) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pic captures the essence of climbing in so many ways.
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