Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: Aerili When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Not that it wasn't just gaping enough to require some sweat and wide techniques from me, but I think this could be considered offwidth lite.
You'll probably want to walk a #4 through that part, but I was glad I judiciously placed smaller pieces in the back of that crack when possible and preserved the 4 (as well as my #2) for the end.
Overall more difficult than Bushwhack (even in the non-wide sections). Fun to ride the chickenhead before topping out. But I wonder... how many partn... more >>
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Road Rage (5.8)
By: Aerili When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top-out of this route was confusing to me. It seemed if I went far left, I would get a lot of rope drag. So I chose to go straight up some steep, overhanging cracks. They offered protection but were really quite strenuous, more like 5.9, although engaging. I wanted a warm-up... be careful what you wish for, ha ha!
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : North Ridge (Easy 5th) : Photo
By: Aerili When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This marmot is the most ridiculous thing ever. It was whining at us like a dog begging for food while we ate lunch on the summit.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always noted this. It is a bit nervy. :-)
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: Aerili When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt the runout section is PG13 in actual distance but the hurt factor from a slip would probably be equivalent to an R rating nonetheless. The slab requires a couple moves of commitment then, yes, you can get a very good small cam in a crack to protect the rest.
|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson : SE Face (5.4) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments:
|
Location: UT : Ibex : Snakeskin Buttress : Snakeskin (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a single yellow MasterCam on the second pitch before pulling the roof (just after the first bolt). I felt like fall protection would be safer/less painful this way but ymmv.
A single 70 m will get you down. The second pitch is fairly short and the leader can lower back down to the belay if desired.
|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Aerili When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Purely and simply an awesome shot.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route really does take nuts well, but one thing to keep in mind before you set and jet is that if you have any doubts at all that you may fall at the crux, you should have at least one cam or oppositional nut in. My partner (who was quite competent and no rookie) zippered several pieces--up to his single cam placement--during a fall at the crux. I think the position of the belayer in relation to the wall doesn't help.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Low Spark (5.11 PG13)
By: Aerili When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was hilarious that the guidebook recommended a rack of singles to #2 and doubles of #3 (or something like that).
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Viewing (5.10a R)
By: Aerili When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was an excellent, long face climb but would be somewhat nerve-wracking to lead unless you are a solid slabmaster at grades >= 5.10 (per Texaswall's earlier comment-- and pretty typical for most 10- LCC friction, I suppose). I could tell as I climbed that this was put g/u; props to that and to the notes about it here.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Bowman Lake
By: Aerili When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this area up!
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Knapsack Crack (5.5)
By: Aerili When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^^^ Pointless spray alert.
And imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
|
v
|
Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Darwin : Evolution Traverse (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, so good.
|
Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.12d) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Geometry lesson.
|
Location: jon apprill : california : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice capture of one of the darker arts.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Black is Brown (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this whole route was wack.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell yeah! Phil is one of the nicest dirtbags I know.
|
Location: Steve Levin : Ship Rock, NM : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am jealous!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Regular Route (5.11b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's ok by me. :-)
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Indian Wells Canyon : Five Fingers : Aquila Peak, Northeast Face (4th) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terrific shot! I've always looked at this while driving by and wondered what was up there.
|
Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those look like a lot of small cams for a very wide pitch.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Photo
By: Aerili When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can just go to the Lone Pine ranger station and they have directions.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Inflictor (5.12-) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is just an unbelievably great photo.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Photo
By: Aerili When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So many wonderful shapes and colors going on here! Great composition.
|
RSS Feed
