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Duck face with Largo


Member Since: Mar 5, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Aerili


Point Rank: # 233
Total Points: 2,161
Last Year: 225
Last 30 Days: 17
211 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (1773) | Routes (20) | Areas (3) | Photos (304) | Comments (396) | Posts (578) | Stars (406) | Ratings (66)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Aerili When: 3 days ago

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Comments: All I can say is....damn.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Sierra Ancha Mountains : Photo
By: Aerili When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It's been many years since I was there and I have no good beta for the exact location. This area would offer adventure climbing for sure, though...probably not for the faint of heart or hiking-averse.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : The Sickle (5.10c)
By: Aerili When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: You can also supplement protection with some .5 Camalots in the left-hand crack (sling em out).

I didn't find the size to become baggy golds til the top. The last 20-30 feet was also the crux for me, although the start is no give-away either.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Aerili When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: I almost didn't bring the #4 but I was actually really glad to have it on pitch 1 and pitch 3.

I don't think we needed four purple Camalots at any time. I think three would be more than enough...even for the seamstresses out there. You should be more concerned about carrying extra greens.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Photo
By: Aerili When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is so great.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: Kevin, don't be daft!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: There is a vague impression that things are spinning like a vortex in this photo. It also appears that this view could have been captured looking vertically up OR vertically down OR dead straight horizontal.

Cool shot that seriously messes with the mind!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : God's Cave : Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: This is seriously stellar, son.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Basket Dome : Basket Case (5.11b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: What a monster.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : The Enclosure : Listen to the Echo (5.10a)
By: Aerili When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: I think the first bolt is about 30 feet up near a large hueco. Then another decent space to the next bolt. I was not about to try leading it without a stick clip! Anyway, this beta may help you spot the route if you are so inclined.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Sand Dunes : Leopard Skin (5.7)
By: Aerili When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: If you have a 70 m rope, you can run the last two pitches together (make sure to sling everything long). It also makes the first rappel a lot more comfortable with a little extra rope.

The "new" pitch 1 variation (two bolts to a hand crack) was the best pitch of the route. A lot of variety-- but don't take it for granted. Extremely sandy and some awkward moves made it feel a little hard for the grade and particularly insecure at times. Take a #1, 2, & 3 plus a few small nuts and you'll be... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Aerili When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I think it is hilarious that so many people call the squeeze chimney pitch "miserable". Think of it as a teaching tool. Even more demonic, I would suggest that this short, wide section adds to the all-around classic feel of this route.

So do it, then go to Yosemite Valley and tell me you aren't glad you did.

Edited to address Boissal's comment below: I think getting in the crack is a perfectly fine style to ascend....I definitely had half my body in there and it felt more secure on the sharp... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Pony Express (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I love that Mitchell Rhodes has apparently made an account only for posting useful spray comments. Too bad he doesn't realize there is a "ticks" feature on his profile.... :'''-(


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Aerili When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: It's been years since I climbed the first pitch of this route, and I found the finish toward the belay just as gripping as I did when I was green. These moves are clearly the crux. The step-around is not too difficult or scary at all. The thing is that the leader is not well protected on the final moves of the first pitch, but the second is, and vice versa on the step-around of the second pitch. Pick yer poison.

Tricams are not needed on this route. Also, the 5.8 finish with the piton is quite... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : The Hourglass (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: This looks right up his alley!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot! It is so crazy how the City's granite can manifest in completely different colors.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : North Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Aerili When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: ^^^ Agree 500%


Location: International : Europe : France : Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles... : Chamonix Aiguille : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: There were huge crevasses and overhanging cornices at the "usual" start of this route when we did it today, so everyone was starting at a higher point to the right. From the "5.9+" label on the topo, go down at 5 o'clock. Start here and traverse in. A super tiny cam protects a brief 5.5/6 move out of a tiny berghshrund to a huge ledge and single bolt anchor. Dump your stuff here if you wish (I would leave it on the snow if possible since the transition ain't a snap) or rappel via the alternate o... more >>


Location: International : Europe : France : Chamonix Valley & Aiguilles... : Chamonix Aiguille : ... : Voie Rébuffat-Baquet (5.10)
By: Aerili When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Clean and bomber golden granite, warm southern exposure, + a dash of polish. Gets a lot of traffic. Taking a full rack seemed reasonable-- it offers up cracks of all sizes. Pitch 2 was intensive on small cams and nuts. Other than that, the Euros really trust their rusty old iron way more than 'Mericans. Get ready to trust it! :-)

A lot of people abbreviate and rap this route vs topping out (for a variety of reasons, including time, sometimes crowding, or the lack of desire to carry all your bo... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Impeccable.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sideline (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: A route worth doing. Easy to combine pitches 3 and 4 together but I would not do so for 1 and 2. I tried, but the rope drag is no bueno even with minimal # of pieces (I only put in three on p1) and long slings. Also, the crux of the route is the top of pitch 2 and you will want a precise belay, no rope drag, and your belayer in view.

The finishing face on p2 looks unprotectable but gear can be had here and there. I could not protect the crux itself. You only have solution pockets in a bul... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stuck a Flute in My (5.10-)
By: Aerili When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Sustained and tenuous in the dihedral. I was wishing I had 1-2" more reach for some of those clips.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: Way to make this place look rad!


Location: lucasbarth : Landscapes : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: Just beautiful, Lucas. Your pictures always keep me stoked!


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