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Rock Climbing Photo: “Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and t...


Member Since: Mar 5, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 20, 2016
Contact Aerili

Point Rank: # 268
Total Points: 2,395
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 0
362 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aerili been climbing?










Contributions


All 2140 | Routes 19 | Areas 3 | Photos 347 | Page Improvements | Comments 425 | Posts 709 | Stars 558 | Ratings 79
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: This photo flashed across the front page and totally got my attention.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Moment of Inertia (5.10c)
By: Aerili When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: The shorter you are - I believe this route may bump up in grade at some point. Completing the opening moves off the pillar are definitely height dependent due to the extreme reach required and no feet or other intermediate holds really available. (Does not apply to orangutans.)


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 17 (5.10-)
By: Aerili When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: Soft for 5.10. Good quality rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 14 (5.11)
By: Aerili When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: The 11b corner is an ass-kicker and seemed a bit harder than the given grade to me. My partner and I thought most of the rock below the crux was pretty hairball and definitely detracts some stars.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Protein Supplement (5.10-)
By: Aerili When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Seemed somewhat stiffer than other 10a's in the area. This route and Sunbaked are steeper than they appear from the ground which, I think, somehow translates to a higher fun factor.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10b) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: In case anyone looks at this pic and considers it beta, it is not. This should only be used to help identify where NOT to go on pitch 9.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Cause of death: too many Eastern Sierra pitches and too much Creek grit. Don't say it didn't live the good life.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: I have more which are even better but I am not sure if I will upload them to this site. Yes, I was lucky to be in the right place at the right time!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Aerili When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: A red Master Cam might be useful for the crux pitch. I felt purple Camalots were a bit too small and green Camalots were a bit too tight on roof #1.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Glenlivet (5.10a)
By: Aerili When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Thought-provoking and full value fun! Even with gear, it is a slightly sporty lead. Felt standard 10a to me (LCC notwithstanding).


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters
By: Aerili When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Most of this info appears, worded just slightly differently from the original text, in various sections of the book, including the "Local History" section, the "Geology" section, and the "Twin Sisters" page. While it might be mixed around and abbreviated a bit, that is usually considered plagiarism by most. Whoever wrote this should at least give Bingham credit as the actual source. I noticed this in the first place because I had just read those sections in the guidebook a few days before readin... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters
By: Aerili When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: This description reads like straight-up plagiarism from the Bingham book. Seriously?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Photo
By: Aerili When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: A beautiful spark of light peeks over the harsh edge of the world - just like you, my dear friend. Miss you . . .


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Photo
By: Aerili When: Nov 23, 2014

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Comments: Great shot!!!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cupcake (5.10b V1) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Maybe you are just telling it what it wants to hear!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: Aerili When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: These things are ridiculous in the best way possible.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Half-A-Finger (5.9+)
By: Aerili When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Like so many Little Cottonwood routes, this one looks very "meh" and unprotectable from the ground but offers fairly top notch climbing and good gear (ok, maybe that latter one isn't necessarily so typical in LCC, ha). I do agree that the main crux--the committing overhang--is harder for shorter people. I had to climb up off the ledge and stance up in a pumpy position to put in my gear. My much taller partner had no issues reaching up to place from the rest before getting up in the business. Not... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is like the time Justin Timberlake was canyoneering behind one of my partners in Neon Canyon. Shirtless and captured on tape in southern Utah! Except that was real and not a movie. ;)


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Irvine : East Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: The cloud shadows are super cool.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: For me this route felt much harder than After the Fall so I was surprised to see a lot of people up-rating AtF but maintaining the 5.9 grade here. I felt it was the reverse (WoF feeling closer to 10a or 10-). This route offered a lot of rattly fingers and flaring hand-sized pods and butt-cracks which felt really insecure at times.

The gear is not finicky to place for the most part, but in order to minimize rope drag and avoid hollow rock you have to give some thought to where, what, and how to ... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Last Stand Wall : Crescent Moon (5.8) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I think this is the best photo of a 5.8 clip-up I have ever seen.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10b)
By: Aerili When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Despite people posting that you can "only" get off-route on pitch 1, 7, or 1,000, we found the hardest route-finding to be at the very top! Starting at pitch 9, apparently our belay was not far enough right. Due to our error, it would seem that the belay must be moved very far right at this point - past an obvious place where the pitch seems to start via a straight-up crack and a left-trending ramp that converge at a constriction, both of which can and have been climbed (and where a fix... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Aerili When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this is a #5 Camalot C4 and therefore similar in range to the old 4.5.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Union Dues (5.10b)
By: Aerili When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: I recommend slinging out the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Castle Dome : Southeast Arete (5.10) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Epic shot!


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