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Rock Climbing Photo: Gorilla.


Member Since: May 9, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Aeon Aki

Point Rank: # 144
Total Points: 3,693
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 108
69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aeon Aki been climbing?










Contributions


All 2420 | Routes 142 | Areas 15 | Photos 388 | Page Improvements | Comments 108 | Posts 7 | Stars 1360 | Ratings 400
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: It appears as though the "spice" has been sewn up on this one as there are now 8 bolts to the top and the only moderate runout comes between the first and second bolt. Still, it is a technical, sustained line that is heads up all the way to the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : No Direction Home (5.11a/b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: Tony B sums it up perfectly.

I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders West (aka ... : Photo
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This boulder is referred to as the Smiley Face Boulder in Seth Robinson's "Vegas Bouldering" guidebook.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Fifth World (5.12b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Three-Quarter Ton (5.10b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be caref... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Scenic Rock : Standard Route (V3)
By: Aeon Aki When: Dec 10, 2009

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Comments: A variation/eliminate to this problem begins left hand on the crimp and right hand in the hole then crosses right hand to a shallow pinch. From here, go up and left into the slot right of the big sloper feature then hike your feet up and slap to the lip. Great moves, minimal pain and similar in difficulty.


Location: PA : Southwestern Highlands : Breakneck : Main Wall : (10) Grab Your Balls (5.9)
By: Aeon Aki When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Follow this link for beta on how NOT to climb this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Return To Sender (5.12a/b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is 5.8 to a dirty corner that involves a somewhat dangerous "behind your back" clip that transitions you to the next slab after one or two steep moves on very questionable rock. From here, make easy moves on loose, dirty rock (careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody) and encounter one move of 5.11a followed by low angle 5.7 or 5.8 slab to the first set of anchors. P2 features a nice variety of "snappy" "hol... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Centennial (5.11c/d)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 6, 2009

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Comments: This route has cleaned up very nicely, and the upper pitch is among the best I've done at the Bowling Alley.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Next to Nothing (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 9, 2009

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Comments: The second pitch of this route is a choss pile. It is sketchy if not flat out dangerous reaching the first bolt after the break and the slab that follows drops down to about 5.8 until a dirty, flaky exit sequence presents itself. Better to clip the Amazing Face chains and call it good. Four stars without the second pitch.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Roll the Dice (V5)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 27, 2009

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Comments: It seems like you can cheat this problem by moving either left or right after a few moves. The V5 line seems like it would avoid moving left or right and instead would move straight up the slab.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: This route climbs more like a bouldery V4 to an engaging and exposed 5.9 headwall, both classics in their own regards. It's almost a shame that the upper slab is gaurded by such a stout beginning. 5 stars!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: Did he send?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Threshold Of A Dream (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 15, 2008

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Comments: A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Affluenza (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: In his description Sean says, "When you reach the roof, your 55 feet of fun is over and it's time to lower"; however, instead of moving out left to finish at the Affluenza anchors, you can link into the top 2 clips of Whiteman's Burden for some extra, though a bit chossy, climbing.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : S.C.U.M. Mainfesto (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: My bad Patrick, that's exactly what I thought. I'll put your draw back up next time I'm there (couple of weeks). But your advice is valid; don't leave just one draw on a route in Rifle, or else I'll nab it! Sorry.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: Solid at .11c if you factor in the multiple z-clip cruxes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Kingfisher (5.12d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: Someone told me a hold broke on this route and it is now harder. This was the first time I'd been on it so I don't know for sure, but it certainly felt tough.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Thunder Point : Sunset Arete (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: As this route cleans up, it will get even better. Good moves, tricky beta, and a spectacular position. Perhaps a bit over-bolted and still a bit dirty but well worth it if you've climbed out the Oceanic Wall. Get on it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 20, 2008

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Comments: As Chad's comment notes, it is easier to climb and protect this route by beginning left of the small dihedral. From there I traversed under the step roof and pulled over on the right getting back in line with East Edge. From there, instead of taking the pin-scarred crack, I climbed more or less straight up using a variety of cracks and edges. Certainly this is the line of least resistance on the left side of Cob Rock but watch what you pull on up there as there are numerous loose flakes that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: Patience young grass smoker. More info is on the way...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: The sportiest way to clip the first bolt is with a stick.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: FA: Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981. Royal Robbins is old, these guys would kick your ass (not that Royal Robbins wouldn't).


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: Perhaps it was the blazing sun mixed with greasy holds, the contrived nature of the climbing, the choss I had to navigate my way through, or the grid-bolted face I was looking up at, but this route left much to be desired. If this is the best rock in Clear Creek Canyon, I think I've seen enough. Bomb!


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