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El Capitan and Yosemite Valley as seen from the base of Half Dome.


Member Since: May 9, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 30, 2014
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Point Rank: # 125
Total Points: 3,472
Last Year: 285
Last 30 Days: 0
49 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aeon Aki been climbing?










Contributions


All 2296 | Routes 139 | Areas 15 | Photos 351 | Page Improvments | Comments 102 | Posts 7 | Stars 1301 | Ratings 381
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : Redstone Boulders : Stein Boulder : Linkenstein (V5+)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: The highest jug rail has broken off! We arrived at this boulder on 04/27/2013 to find the entire rail intact on the ground with the outline of the hold still wet on the wall leading us to believe this may have happened just the day before we arrived. It looks like the traverse would still go but not at V5.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Lower Hillside
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: I've consolidated all of these problems into the Lower Hillside Area as per tcamilleri.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Illegal Alien (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Use the crack! This is rock climbing, not the gym. Using it does not avoid the crux, and there are some great jams in there. Well worth it if you already did Forbidden Fruit.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : River Boulders : Corkscrew Boulder : The Main Squeze (V8)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: FA: Jeff Achey, late '80s, early '90s.


Location: CO : Carbondale Area : Redstone Area : River Boulders : Corkscrew Boulder : Corkscrew (V5)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: FA Jeff Achey, late '80s, early '90s. JA discovered the "corkscrew" beta and called it V6. "The Main Squeeze" the compression arete to the right when facing this problem is his as well and goes at about V8.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: The route described here is a "variation" based on the Kelman guidebook. For full value (and easier climbing) continue traversing past the Max Factor chains and belay at the top of Baalbek. This was the end of P2 for us, then we continued across the MaxiLash pit, under the large, capping roof above Captian Nemo, and finally up an easy, right-facing dihedral to a great ledge with a huge hueco carved into it. An inobvious squeeze down a chimney brought us to the P2 anchors of Captain Nemo and a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Wing Ding (5.10c)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: This route has been bolted once again and now provides another sport lead on the Der Zerkle wall. A bit run out off the ground and up top, overall the bolted line feels contrived and often quite awkward. This was better as a TR from the What if You're Not chains.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Trailer Park Logic (5.10c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: P1 is "tradesque" with many crack climbing options, good stemming, and some questionable rock quality. I found the crux of the route to be on P1.

P2 can easily be linked into P1 and offers much better rock quality and excellent position. You can take it all the way to the top and look out across all of the Shelf Road area. Staying just right of the bolt line will keep the climbing at easy 5.10 though the sequences are cryptic as this one doesn't get much traffic.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Johnny Cat (5.11+)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: +1 to 1Eric Rhicard. Sounds like we both used the same beta.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Head and Shoulders (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: There is now an extension to this pitch that climbs the headwall above the end of the corner/flake (Knees and Toes 5.12b, FA Audrey Sniezek).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Bands of Gold (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: I found this to be the most poorly bolted (dangerous) sport climb I've done in Boulder Canyon. At the bottom, the bolts are so close you might z-clip, then it's "adventure sport climbing" through plants, trees, loose rock, and hard to reach bolt hangers above the first big ledge. The upper section of this pitch is extremely dirty and the anchors are positioned in a way that causes continuous strain on the rope.

The overall line is very nice however and a few pieces of supplemental gear (and... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Not on the First Date (5.11c)
By: Aeon Aki When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: We climbed this route during the 2011 New River Rendezvous and many people mentioned that one of the crux holds had "recently" broken making the sequence much harder than the given grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Mount Sanitas : Turd Boulder aka Leaning Bo... : Genital Grinder? Ground Con... (V5-6)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: FA Johnny Hork?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.13a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: Great position, solid rock, and varied movement with technical and mental cruxes. Don't cut yourself short by traversing right to the Animal Instinct chains, it's not over! Some rope work would need to be done to manage the rope drag if trying to link all the way to the top but you get pretty good value after finishing P1. Classic Boulder Canyon sport climbing!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Gym Arete Direct (5.12c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: This route is action-packed from the moment your feet leave the earth. A powerful opening sequence followed by clip after clip of sustained, intricate face climbing makes this one exciting all the way to the chains. Solid for the grade, quality rock, and oh so clean, this is certainly one of the best routes at Shelf Road.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: Aeon Aki When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: Even after taking the whip of shame the sequence leading to the loose, chockstone undercling did not present itself. Interested to see of something may have broken off the chossy side of the blunt arete....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Good climbing but the consistency is broken by a huge no hands rest before the crux. I would have called it quits at the last bolt placement as the additional moves to the chains add no difficulty except for an awkward clip to claim the send. Still, a nice pitch with plenty of tricky moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Bidoigt (5.10a)
By: Aeon Aki When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: This route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: It appears as though the "spice" has been sewn up on this one as there are now 8 bolts to the top and the only moderate runout comes between the first and second bolt. Still, it is a technical, sustained line that is heads up all the way to the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : No Direction Home (5.11)
By: Aeon Aki When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: Tony B sums it up perfectly.

I counted 12 + 2 to the top chains.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders West (aka ... : Photo
By: Aeon Aki When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: This boulder is referred to as the Smiley Face Boulder in Seth Robinson's "Vegas Bouldering" guidebook.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Fifth World (5.12b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Three-Quarter Ton (5.10b/c)
By: Aeon Aki When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be caref... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Scenic Rock : Standard Route (V3)
By: Aeon Aki When: Dec 10, 2009

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Comments: A variation/eliminate to this problem begins left hand on the crimp and right hand in the hole then crosses right hand to a shallow pinch. From here, go up and left into the slot right of the big sloper feature then hike your feet up and slap to the lip. Great moves, minimal pain and similar in difficulty.


Location: PA : Breakneck : Main Wall : (10) Grab Your Balls (5.9)
By: Aeon Aki When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Follow this link for beta on how NOT to climb this route.


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