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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Corn Grinder (5.12c)
By: adampeters When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is super good for the upper climbing, the bottom crux boulder problem doesn't necessarily have to involve dynamic moves, but it is a little harder to do via the static/thin/ridiculous method. If V6 thin crimping is your thing, then do the boulder problem, but if you really enjoy amazing 5.11 jug hauling, then pull past it and do the rest off the route!
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Supersould Sureshot (5.12c)
By: adampeters When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bail Biner gone, I took it...Awesome route, perfect rock, beta intensive crux, a bueno time!
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall
By: adampeters When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebook is "Telluride Rock", you can find it at Jagged Edge in Telluride.
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : White Salamander (5.12-)
By: adampeters When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route on semi-technical crimps/sidepulls/slimpers! Surprised to find this one here, it was definitely 4 stars!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Pear and Apple (Bouldering) : The Smoking Section : Eating Stars (V4)
By: adampeters When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry Em, I did this problem like 10 years ago. It's actually called Deep Fried Stars and I originally rated it B1, so, good job on the Second ascent.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: adampeters When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bart, my friends and I agree with you, this route is probably not 13c if you do the logical line of pulling up on the slab. We did this route about a year and a half ago, it was my first 13, so I don't give much value to the 13c grade here. I think the consensus around here is 13b-ish, depends on your style of climbing though. Although they climb way different, I feel that Public Solitude and this route are around the same grade. If you want to get on a real 13b, try Stuffed Wolf, best one i... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b) : Photo
By: adampeters When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whatever.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Lost My Religion (5.12a)
By: adampeters When: Dec 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take two to three pieces of gear for this route. There is a fixed pin after the third bolt that is bomber too. The mixed section is not that long or hard here.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Leap of Faith (5.12d)
By: adampeters When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, there really is no literal dyno anymore since the hold broke, the new beta is a tricky deadpoint.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: adampeters When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, Wet Dream is mangnifacentasticly awesome! Worst 12a in the canyon, Lock Jaw at the Tetanus Crag.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: adampeters When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, it has been a long while since I have done this route, but I feel the grade is 5.7. I remember never having climbed it before and reading the Chuck's book that said 5.5, I was soloing that day and decided to do it. I felt soild soloing 5.8 at the time, but was surprised by the 5.5 grade. Felt harder than that to me. Two cents deposited.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : River Run (5.13b)
By: adampeters When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even though these are old comments, I will put my two cents in here. Yes, this route still goes, and no it is not harder than 13b. This is a fairly physical route that requires some imagination at the crux. I will tell you this, the last draw is pretty hard to clip on the go, but have no fear I fell well above it when I was working this route and still didn't hit the ledge, almost, but not quite. So, If you find it hard to clip, then it is fairly safe to skip. Enjoy this route, rope boulder... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Orange Crimpsicle (5.12d)
By: adampeters When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is SO worth getting on. Brilliant face climbing!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12a/b)
By: adampeters When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto! Best 12b I have seen or done! Top three sport pitch in my book! STOP LOOKING AT THE BOOK AND DO IT!!!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Center El Shinto (5.12a)
By: adampeters When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gorgeous Stone! A complete 4 star route for shinto!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: adampeters When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, I don't really remember much of the beta under the roof, I just remember it was super fun. It looks like I rated it b/c after the onsight, but from the sounds of you guys it is solid d? I don't know, it doesn't matter really. What I did want to say is don't climb above the first anchors. 1. it sucks. 2. it is chossy as hell. 3. you have to tag a line or lower half way (which I did, in the rain). 4. did I mention it's chossy? That second portion of the route is not even that interest... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Tour de Poudre (5.12b/c)
By: adampeters When: Apr 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is really really good. The first pitch is around a 100 feet or so and comes in at 10a. The second pitch is actually more like 80 feet and is right on at 12b. Climb it!
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Pretty Hate Machine (5.12c)
By: adampeters When: Apr 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marc, that's one of the better excuses I've heard from people that are too scared to go to Rifle and get their ass kicked. Good one!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: adampeters When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been redpointed prior to the hold breaking at the crux.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: adampeters When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably needs a chain for that draw. In between a normal bone and that long sling size. Weren't there chains up there before?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Road Warrior (5.12d)
By: adampeters When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up this route a few weeks ago without any knowledge of its grade or history, I just thought it looked good and vaguely remember somebody saying something about a 12a in the vicinity. I was pleasantly surprised that this route was at high wire, previously I had written the crag off, but I think that this route coupled with Road Rash are worth a stop if you can wade through the crowds. I worked out the knee bar beta and left hand, gaston sequence and it seemed to be a really fun crux. I ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a) : Photo
By: adampeters When: Jan 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, but the dancing genes don't translate.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a) : Photo
By: adampeters When: Jan 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight out of the bario, yo!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Photo
By: adampeters When: Jan 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look at that long haired okie. A rare sighting of an okie hippie hipster I believe. Love it!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : West Face : Women On Mopeds (5.10a)
By: adampeters When: Jan 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good little route, I can't believe I havn't done it until now. Did this over my Christmas Vacation back to Oklahoma, probably one of the coldest days climbing I have ever experienced.
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