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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Haagenschlong (5.9+ C1-)
By: Adam Wilson When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are going to go do haagenschlong, bring a stick clip or a rivit kit. I apologize, but I blew out one of the bathook holes under bodyweight. When I get a chance I'll go back and either drill a new hole or put in a rivit, depending on Jason's desires.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Adam Wilson When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: YEAH TRISTIAN!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Flakenstein (5.10d)
By: Adam Wilson When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel I need to comment on high first bolts in general, as the topic comes up quite often. In AF and Rock Canyon, many routes were designed with the intention of stick clipping the first bolt. This keeps the thievery of the first few bolt hangers down. Feel free to count stick clipping the first bolt as a legitimate send on utah county sport routes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : Crisco Crack (5.7)
By: Adam Wilson When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't stop laughing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Phantom Menace (5.7)
By: Adam Wilson When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spoiler alert: work the down pressure! If it feels hard than 6ish, look for a hidden hold, or better feet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Threshold : Photo
By: Adam Wilson When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: #9 is "hold to the rod", .11a F.A. D.K.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Vote for Your Mom (5.3)
By: Adam Wilson When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: one has a responsibility to vote for carl's mom, if you is able.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : The Mantel Route (5.8)
By: Adam Wilson When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's nice to be excited on 5.8. And by excited I mean gripped out of my mind. Protection is plenty adequate, but low percentage move of the kind you just have to love on the most polished of polished quartzite... I love this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Flakes (5.7)
By: Adam Wilson When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christian told me for years that this is the best route in rock canyon. I didn't believe him.
He was wrong. This is one of the best 5.7's anywhere.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Photo
By: Adam Wilson When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: rats, better run it out, then.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (5.7)
By: Adam Wilson When: Aug 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I agree tat Cosmic Space Dust Lazers is not a gimme at the grade, I appreciated that adventure. The rock is a little crumbly, though no more than the classic lines on trilogy (Lord of the slings third pitch may now be an exception to that) and is reminiscent of the classic quartzite "down, not out" principle. There are no runouts, and all the anchors are bomber, so you don't have the pucker factor you get on climbs like Jungle Rot Slot or Banana Dreams.
I especially enjoyed that traverse... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Cruel Shoes (5.7)
By: Adam Wilson When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rap poly-stick-um, 4 raps with a 60m, be careful on the first two raps. Fun route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Climb and Punishment (5.9-)
By: Adam Wilson When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic! And possibly to easiest-to-protect climb at the penitentiary
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Jungle Rot Slot (5.8 PG13)
By: Adam Wilson When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're 'right'. I got the name and route information out of the Carl Horton Book, published in the 80's.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Jungle Rot Slot (5.8 PG13)
By: Adam Wilson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another brilliant line from Rock Canyon pioneers. Ridiculously fun and adventurous on surprisingly clean, solid rock. The line wanders a bit, so this is a case where running pitches together isn't worth the effort. Amazing views and fun climbing. I wonder how many more lines like this hide in obscurity?
Thanks guys for the stellar route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Vote for Your Mom (5.3)
By: Adam Wilson When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend and I bolted this route on lead from hooks.
the bottom bolt is because my wife is half my weight, and being pulled up low angle slab sucks.
We didn't go to the top of the Pillar is because it shifted under my friends body weight.
First route I ever put up, mostly as an access thing. Do what you will.
(the route was called "vote for your mom" and was originally rated 5.3. Jason Klemick and Adam Wilson)
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