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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d) : Photo
By: Adam B When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know that Pole, he wore the same damn shirt the whole time we were in Mexico together! Way to go fellas!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)
By: Adam B When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing line. Some beta for the faint of heart. After schlepping our "too scared to aid clean" insurance policy through the Boulderfield to the Chasm View raps and beyond, my partner led the aid crux (and all of the harder aid for that matter, as I was the alleged free climbing gun), totally clean with camhooks at what he felt to be straightforward C2+. I believe we had 1 small and 2 medium camhooks. We never found a need for ballnuts either. Triple set of HB offsets was mighty plush and I th... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : David (5.11)
By: Adam B When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Laser cut 2nd pitch. If you have a 6 inch wide laser that is!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Goliath (5.11)
By: Adam B When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite pitches at the Creek. It is varied and has a little bit of everything, including a sporty finish if you dare use the super soft face holds outside the finger crack. This thing is proper 5.11, but perhaps sandbagged when compared to the typical 5.11 IC fare. Thanks Alf, enjoyed the tour on Party Ledge!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Main Vein (5.11)
By: Adam B When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This sounds like a great 1st day option for a 2 day trip up to the Chasm Cirque, especially with the 11am route start time. Did the Directissima on the Chasm View last year followed by Pervertical the next day. That trip was probably my favorite from last summer. Steve, any other route suggestions in the park?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Adam B When: Mar 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is amazing. We climbed this on 3/11/09 and although we did the 5.8 variation 1st pitch, I had a look at the .11+ first pitch after rapping and found no fixed nut to speak of. Judging from the photos it looked as though it should be right around the beginning to middle of the A-frame. Might want to bring some small nuts to make that placement.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Photo
By: Adam B When: Jan 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right on, good photo! Watched him solo "Ramones Mushroom" at El Salto. He was smooth as silk, but I was shakin in my boots just watching.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Salto, Mexico
By: Adam B When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know anything about the long time bolting project going on across the canyon from the normal bolted walls here? There is a portaledge at what looks to be 5 - 7 pitches up and fixed lines getting there as of Jan. 08.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Photo
By: Adam B When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good ole' Crazy "Chief" Dave. This guy is a riot.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : The Hourglass Couloir (M4 Mod. Snow)
By: Adam B When: Dec 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my intro to Alpine mixed climbing, screaming barfies, and spindrift from above AND below. Absolutely loved it (after bailing at the top of the 3rd due to fear of frostbite in my digits). Way psyched to get some burly gloves and get back out. FA - Harry Kent sometime in the '70s or '80s.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Poudre Face
By: Adam B When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some old Sam Shannon guide books floatin' around town, but you can also find a near full copy (minus photo topos and route descriptions) of the guidebook at Drtopo.com. Some have considered this a veritable case of copyright infringement though....
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Sunday Paper (5.9)
By: Adam B When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an Ian Barret CLASSIC....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Adam B When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreeing with Tishmack, this is the best route at Lumpy. It is well-protected through all the hard climbing. Don't pass this one or any other route on Sundance up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+) : Photo
By: Adam B When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa there Rob, dont go yanking that thing off and ruining it for the next guy ...
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Palace Pages : Sporting Green (5.12a)
By: Adam B When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route besides Dear Slabby I've done at the palace. Death and
Disfiguration would be my third fave. Only 5.12 I've ever done as of today so I'm not the best judge, but felt potentially easy for the grade if you've got some solid crack skills a la Indian Creek. The belay just gives it character but definitely don't blow it before the clip at the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Adam B When: Dec 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out Sam Shannon's Palace Rock Guide, intermittently available at Jax and REI.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Churchill Rejects (5.9+)
By: Adam B When: Jan 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is not too long. A 50m will get you up and to the ground no problem.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Split Rock : Drain Pipe (5.5)
By: Adam B When: Nov 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called the "standard route" and goes at 5.6 in Greg Collins and Vance White's "Lander Rock" book. Great route, stellar granite.
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