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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Lewd and Lascivious Conduct (5.10c R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun TR, but leading this thing would be scary with no pro except one micro-nut above the horizontal. The bottom half (below the horizontal) is more protectable and not really contrived with the best holds in and near the seam. One section about 5-10' below the horizontal has a cruxy section in the 5.10b range.
Past the horizontal, the route becomes a bit more contrived. Sticking strictly to the seam and nearby crimpy holds in the dark varnish yields a sustained, technical sequence to the... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Top of the Pops (5.10d)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tricky and sustained moves, and a really fun route. The difficulties end soon after the last bolt, and the moves through the bulge with the crack at the top are relatively easy.
Start off a talus block with an immediately tenuous step up onto a good right foot, clip the bolt, and dive into the first crux - a traverse straight left to the stance for the second bolt. Straightforward moves up to the third bolt set you up for the funky moves past the third bolt. Hand and foot holds are dismal, f... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Feb 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you guys seriously complaining about this route being monotonous and repetitive? And complaining about hanging belays? Tell me what the hell you expected when you looked up at the expansive, planar, featureless, evenly textured Black Velvet Wall above you as you racked up on the ground. Did you not look up?
This route is cool because of its repetitive, continuous nature. How often do you find a wall with pitch after pitch of continuous 5.9+ face climbing that seems to just never end?
W... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jimmy Cliff : Jimmy Cliff - East Face : Bronto's or Us, The (5.11a)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Dec 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! Thanks Bob. Will need to get back out there and try this line.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Hard as Nails (5.11b)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Dec 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a classic and one of my favorites at Woodson. The moves off the ground are the crux. Being short, or simply doing the start statically makes it more difficult. Contrarily, having small fingers likely makes this one easier.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Hillside Area : The Painted Crack Area : ... : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of links...
The left variation (V2):
And one boulderer's beta for the right (V0):
The "easier" beta (to each his own, though) is to NOT heel hook for that one.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Dissolution Rock : Marital Sin (5.10c)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's tricky to get the cams in above the bolt, leaning out left and placing blindly in the thin, shallow crack. A fun, technical little problem.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Hillside Area : The Painted Crack Area : ... : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two variations on that sit start. The one that goes right to the good incut, then up is hard V0. A harder variation (maybe what you did?) goes up with the left hand to a thin crimp, heel hook, then a hard crank with the right hand on small side-pull/crimp to stand up on the ledge. It's V2-ish. Search YouTube for "Santee Boulders" and you should find a video of both variations (though there's a much easier way to do the right variation than the video shows).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Buford's House of Liver (5.11a)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Randy. I expected the route to ease up as the angle kicked back after the 4th bolt (which would indeed be hard to clip) but was wrong. Sustained, technical JTree slab climbing with big high steps on little edges in some spots and desperate smears in others higher up. All of the holds I used through the crux were solid. Definitely not a bomb and with the ample protection, it's well worth a shot if you're in the area.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Black Mountain : Boulder Basin Campground : Transmaniacon Boulder : Scoop Problem (V2)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another option is to climb up and left finishing via Transmaniacon. This variation also feels V2-ish.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - East Face : The Flue, Right (5.10c R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux comes early on this one, and while the gear is pretty good there, the stances are pumpy. The piece that will protect the final moves of the crux is in a flare and is hard to see from the balancy stance you can reach it from. Above the gear is sparse but adequate. Fun climbing though, and a worthy TR if you're on The Flue. I felt it was stout for 10b though, and the R rating seemed appropriate.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : The Cavity (5.11d)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is a sketchy star dryvin. The rock from the ground to the roof move is pretty bad. Make the funky, powerful roof move, and traverse up and right to the next bolt, then further right to the third bolt. The crux moved get you to the first horizontal. After multiple failed attempts trying to figure out a way to climb directly up to the horizontal from the bolt, I found a more reasonable set of moves trending a bit right and up. From the horizontal, the climbing eases significant... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Superfluous Bolt (5.10a R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't think the pro on this route was really that bad. PG, maybe, but definitely not deserving of an R rating. The only sketchy pro section was the easy climbing in the thin flakes before reaching the dihedral where the second bolt is. Careful placement of smaller gear should hold any short fall you might take there. Regardless, interesting climbing the whole way, and a worthwhile route.
I wonder if the "superfluous bolt" is the one on the slab to the climber's right about 2/3 of the way... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Monte (5.10b R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed only P1. Getting to the first bolt was spicy indeed! I could see how Woody's beta for protection could make this a bot more safe. The climbing above the first bolt was adequately protected. Rap the first pitch (barely!) with a 60m rope.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Too Biased (5.9 R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with some great slab and thin crack climbing. I felt the moves getting to the first bolt on P1 were a bit run out. I didn't see any gear options in the seam, even if I'd had the #2 lowe ball that the guidebook mentions. Having started at the base below the ledge with the big tree, I elected to traverse right 10' to Toe Biased just before the second bolt to belay from the good ledge there. I then linked the rest of P1 with most of P2 to belay in the corner about 15' before joi... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Mariah (5.9+)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Difficult, burly, and awkward. A #5 wild country or BD is nice for the wide crack near the top. Small-med cams protect the crux at the bottom well. This thing is definitely harder than 10a and therefore deserves the infamous 5.9+ rating.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance Arete (5.12b R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A potential 11a direct start to Sundance, but beware - it's harder than it looks from the ground and there's not a great stance to clip the first bolt from.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the P3 finish and felt it was harder than the crux on p2, though I think I made it a little harder by being on the right side of the crack. My follower found a better sequence up smears on the left side of the crack. A mid-sized cam, mid-sized nut, and two hybrid aliens (blue-green & green-yellow) protected the crack section above the bolt well. The Sundike finish is probably a more impressive finish, but the traditional Sundance finish is good fun, harder, and definitely more exciting.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10c)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route! Pitch 2 has some incredibly sustained climbing with constantly cruxy climbing. The rock is clean, but not buffed to a porcelain polish. Protection is definitely adequate, but not overabundant. The pin on P2 is gone - bring small nuts or cams to protect that section.
So hard to pin a rating on this one, but I'll try. Here's our pitch breakdown.
P1: 5.10a. The topo in the guidebook has a minor error - the bolt (home-made angle steel hanger) appears before the pin. Small cam... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Cream of White Mice (5.9)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A direct start now exists that adds 5 bolts extending to the toe of the arete for some additional slab climbing with an easy 5.10 crux at the 5th bolt. From the first belay we followed the dike/crack up and left to the higher bolted anchor. The dike straight up had a couple of bolts at the end so we forged on straight up for pitch 3. Runout 5.8 clmbing on the slick dike got us to a 4 or 5-bolt slab with a hard 5.10 crux past the last bolt. Not sure of the ID/grade of the last pitch, but it w... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Dog Pile Area : The Dog Pile : Big Nuthin (5.10+)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually a fun problem. The line starts near the right side of the steep face on some sidepulls. Step up, then reach up and right to a wide, slopey pinch. Set your feet and make the huge move up and left to a good hold, then mantel.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : Zeno's Paradox (5.10d) : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! Thanks guys!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having forgotten my guidebook in the car, I ended up doing the White Line Fever finish not realizing the route went right. The moves to the first bolt on that pitch seemed significantly harder than those on the pitches below - maybe I should have moved left instead of dime-edging up the blank orange slab to the first bolt? That second pitch is fantastic, especially with the sun in your eyes, preventing any possibility of seeing the bolt you're climbing to from the bolt you just clipped!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : The Guillotine (5.8)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun liebacking that I don't feel is as dangerous as the guidebook suggests. I plugged a #3 in the base of the chimney before committing to the "runout" lieback which is really only about 15'-20' before the next piece. I'll downgrade the danger rating on this one to a PG-13. While you can't place gear at every point on the route, I feel the available placements adequately protect the route. Regardless, this wouldn't be a good first 5.8 for a budding leader.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Greasy Kid Stuff (5.10a R)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing straight up the center of the blank slab from the pin scar seemed like the coolest line, but also the hardest and felt more like 10b/c. Moving slightly right looked like it may have been a tad easier with better looking dishes to smear in. Moving left looked easy and off-route. Clark Jacobs indicated that there used to be a fixed pin in the horizontal to protect the runout at the top. The pin is gone and the scar was full of dirt. Once cleaned out, it took a relatively good blue Al... more >>
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