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Member Since: Feb 28, 2005
Last Visit: Nov 22, 2013
Contact Adam Kimmerly


Point Rank: # 1,307
Total Points: 477
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 376 | Routes 16 | Areas 2 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 135 | Posts 33 | Stars 88 | Ratings 72
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Moby Dick
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Don't think they have any names...

There are a couple of potential thin face routes (5.12+ range) that I don't know if anyone has done.

Further right, there's a good rail about 5' off the ground with a chunk that's about to break off at the left end. Start there, go up and left past a mono, then back right to an incut with some grass growing out of it. Drop from there for a V5 boulder problem (E. Roed?), or top it out in the 5.12 range (project?).

Right of that, you can start off of the b... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Serpentine (5.9-)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jun 20, 2012

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Comments: Colin, are you referring to the larger left-facing flake? The route normally heads up the smaller right-facing flake below the bolt. Either one will take small gear, and I recall placing a small alien at the top of the smaller right-facing flake in a pin scar just before it peters out. That's sufficient to keep you safe to the first bolt.

Sorry to hear about the injury. I'm currently recovering from a tib/fib fracture, so I can definitely sympathize! I wish your partner well...


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : Sunset Streaks (5.10a)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Norwegian (V4)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: The hardest move on this problem is the last move into the start of "Blue" and it's maybe a V2 move. This is just a pumpy extension to the direct version and technically no harder.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Count Dracula (5.10d)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Notably harder than "That Old Soft Shoe", this is probably the best route at Belle. The rock is impeccable - reminiscent of the stuff on "Run For Your Life" - and the climbing is much more interesting than the average JTree slab (crimp, smear, high-step, repeat) with side-pulls, hand-foot matches, and some tricky route finding to weave through the weaknesses the rock offers.

A crash-pad would be a welcome addition for most, as one of the cruxes is the move getting to the first bolt. Shorter f... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I've found the Santee grades comparable to other SoCal areas with similar climbing like Joshua Tree and Black Mountain. Conversions to the YDS approximate well to those at Suicide Rock - a mecca of granite slab and thin face climbing. Hang out a bit and get used to the rock and the style before going too crazy on attempting to up-rate problems multiple grades.

I'll agree that it would be nice to consistently see V grades in the database here, perhaps mentioning the original B-grade or YDS g... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : The Amphitheater : Jumpstart (V3)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I've been told V7. The crux is the last move or two getting your feet up into the stand-start position.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Animal Boulder : Long Tall Texan (V4)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Ron! Will make the correction now. Love hearing the history behind these, and I don't think there's any way we'd get it without you filling it in. Keep it coming!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : The Amphitheater : One Cut Above (V4)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 5, 2011

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Comments: It seems like the right hand sidepull has gotten worse in the last couple of years, making the problem a bit harder. Maybe it's just me, but I recall it being sharper and more positive. Not sure if it's just caked with chalk now, or if something crumbled off. I think the grade is solid at V4 now rather than being on the lighter side of the grade.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Left Sid... : Blown Out (5.10d)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: Getting to the first bolt provides the first bit of excitement, moreso if you're under maybe 5'7" or so. The moves aren't that hard, they just have big consequences. The second bolt isn't far after the first, but getting to the third puts you back into ground-fall territory. The line I took to get there wasn't hard, but still had some slightly insecure smeary moves right before getting to the bolt. It might be better to follow the ramp up to a spot right below the bolt, then climb up to it. ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : The Amphitheater : One Cut Above (V4)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: Guess I've always just felt this was the least classic of the named problems on the boulder. Two hard moves get you half-way up the boulder and the problem is pretty much over. I think Powell Face is probably the best of the bunc and gave it 3 stars. Perhaps my one star for One Cut Above is a bit harsh... I think two is fair.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : The Amphitheater : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 28, 2011

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Comments: Some route beta. Maybe some of this can get incorporated into the existing routes in the MP.com db already. I'll add the others when I get a chance if nobody beats me to it. I recommend not making up names for problems that don't have established names.
A) "Jumpstart" V3 [5.11]: Lieback up the arete, finishing with a mantel straight over the bulge.
B) (Unnamed) V7(?): Sit start the "Jumpstart" problem. Crux is the move getting into the stand start position
C) (Unnamed) 5.8: Slab climb just r... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : The Amphitheater : Amp Incline (V1)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: One of many great problems on this face. I think the 5.8 grade is pretty accurate for this one, and it's nowhere near V1 (5.10d). I uploaded a couple of topo photos of the N. and S. face of the rock with ratings. I'll try to get back and add details for each.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Video Dome
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: The rap anchor now has chain links. A 60m rope will get you to the base of "Pay Per View" or "Remote Control Unit". Those with short ropes can rap down Pay Per View to a second rap anchor about 40' down, then to the ground.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Hillside Area : The Painted Crack Area : E.B. Boulder Left Face (5.7 V-easy PG13)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: There are at least two sit-start variations of the left face of the EB Boulder. They start matched on the low part of the big rail. The easier one (5.10- / V0) moves right up the rail, then out right to a good incut crimp before surmounting the bulge and topping out. The harder version (5.11 / V2) makes a powerful move up and left from the rail to a left hand crimp, then heel hook and crank up and right to stand on the ledge. Maybe these should be posted as separate problems?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Worthwhile Rock : Worthwhile Pile (5.7)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: A decent line if you're already there, but nothing spectacular. Lots of ants...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Worthwhile Rock : Overlooked (5.10a)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: More sustained and generally a better route than "Holden On". Thin, tricky pro keeps you thinking, but is good enough to keep you safe.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Escape Rock : Exit Stage Right (5.9)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: 1/4" button-heads with homemade aluminum hangers. They at least look halfway decent (not rusty, and the aluminum hangers aren't elongated or loose) but I sure didn't want to test any of them. The start requires a cheat stone unless you're really tall, and it kind of contrived and silly. The rest of the climbing is decently fun and flows well until the 4th bolt which is in a great spot to provide some hefty rope drag and not really protect you at all for the last bouldery moves to the... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: Sweet! Just recently found this and wondered what it was. We also did a sketchy, lichen-covered highball on the North side of that boulder. Any idea of the name?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Dog Pile Area : The Butt Plug : The Butt Plug North Side (V0- PG13)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 10, 2011

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Comments: Yup! That's probably the best problem on the boulder in my opinion. It gets the YDS grade of 5.10d which would correlate to V1.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Cottonwood Area : Cottonwood Camp : Chocolate Boulder
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: The slabby side of the Chocolate Boulder has lots of problems and variations. Here are the obvious lines...



Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Cottonwood Area : Cottonwood Camp : ... : Tower Crack (V0)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: I'm curious where you found the name "Tower Crack". Haven't heard that name for this problem before.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Cottonwood Area : Cottonwood Camp : ... : Scimitar (aka Dead Ringer) (V6)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: I think the V6 grade is for a static start. Most will need a folded pad or a cheat stone to reach the only decent crimps on the face.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Photo
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Jan 12, 2011

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Comments: Looks like the first pitch of "Cruise Line" (5.9-ish) which is also the approach pitch to a number of other quality lines including "Baby Face" (5.11b) and "Bloodline" (5.12a).


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Dec 20, 2010

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Comments: Anytime you're climbing at the local crags, it's a good idea to bring either some quicklinks and/or chain links to leave permanent rap anchors behind, or at least some webbing and rap rings. El Cajon Mountain may be missing some fixed hardware due to some chopping in the past, and Eagle Peak and Corte Madera are frequently topped out and walked-off of so rap hardware is not always present. I always bring a few sets with me and leave them on the more popular rap anchors when I go. The cheapest... more >>


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