There are a couple of potential thin face routes (5.12+ range) that I don't know if anyone has done.
Further right, there's a good rail about 5' off the ground with a chunk that's about to break off at the left end. Start there, go up and left past a mono, then back right to an incut with some grass growing out of it. Drop from there for a V5 boulder problem (E. Roed?), or top it out in the 5.12 range (project?).
Right of that, you can start off of the b... more >>
Comments: Colin, are you referring to the larger left-facing flake? The route normally heads up the smaller right-facing flake below the bolt. Either one will take small gear, and I recall placing a small alien at the top of the smaller right-facing flake in a pin scar just before it peters out. That's sufficient to keep you safe to the first bolt.
Sorry to hear about the injury. I'm currently recovering from a tib/fib fracture, so I can definitely sympathize! I wish your partner well...
Comments: Notably harder than "That Old Soft Shoe", this is probably the best route at Belle. The rock is impeccable - reminiscent of the stuff on "Run For Your Life" - and the climbing is much more interesting than the average JTree slab (crimp, smear, high-step, repeat) with side-pulls, hand-foot matches, and some tricky route finding to weave through the weaknesses the rock offers.
A crash-pad would be a welcome addition for most, as one of the cruxes is the move getting to the first bolt. Shorter f... more >>
Comments: I've found the Santee grades comparable to other SoCal areas with similar climbing like Joshua Tree and Black Mountain. Conversions to the YDS approximate well to those at Suicide Rock - a mecca of granite slab and thin face climbing. Hang out a bit and get used to the rock and the style before going too crazy on attempting to up-rate problems multiple grades.
I'll agree that it would be nice to consistently see V grades in the database here, perhaps mentioning the original B-grade or YDS g... more >>
Comments: It seems like the right hand sidepull has gotten worse in the last couple of years, making the problem a bit harder. Maybe it's just me, but I recall it being sharper and more positive. Not sure if it's just caked with chalk now, or if something crumbled off. I think the grade is solid at V4 now rather than being on the lighter side of the grade.
Comments: Getting to the first bolt provides the first bit of excitement, moreso if you're under maybe 5'7" or so. The moves aren't that hard, they just have big consequences. The second bolt isn't far after the first, but getting to the third puts you back into ground-fall territory. The line I took to get there wasn't hard, but still had some slightly insecure smeary moves right before getting to the bolt. It might be better to follow the ramp up to a spot right below the bolt, then climb up to it. ... more >>
Comments: Guess I've always just felt this was the least classic of the named problems on the boulder. Two hard moves get you half-way up the boulder and the problem is pretty much over. I think Powell Face is probably the best of the bunc and gave it 3 stars. Perhaps my one star for One Cut Above is a bit harsh... I think two is fair.
Comments: Some route beta. Maybe some of this can get incorporated into the existing routes in the MP.com db already. I'll add the others when I get a chance if nobody beats me to it. I recommend not making up names for problems that don't have established names. A) "Jumpstart" V3 [5.11]: Lieback up the arete, finishing with a mantel straight over the bulge. B) (Unnamed) V7(?): Sit start the "Jumpstart" problem. Crux is the move getting into the stand start position C) (Unnamed) 5.8: Slab climb just r... more >>
Comments: One of many great problems on this face. I think the 5.8 grade is pretty accurate for this one, and it's nowhere near V1 (5.10d). I uploaded a couple of topo photos of the N. and S. face of the rock with ratings. I'll try to get back and add details for each.
Comments: The rap anchor now has chain links. A 60m rope will get you to the base of "Pay Per View" or "Remote Control Unit". Those with short ropes can rap down Pay Per View to a second rap anchor about 40' down, then to the ground.
Comments: There are at least two sit-start variations of the left face of the EB Boulder. They start matched on the low part of the big rail. The easier one (5.10- / V0) moves right up the rail, then out right to a good incut crimp before surmounting the bulge and topping out. The harder version (5.11 / V2) makes a powerful move up and left from the rail to a left hand crimp, then heel hook and crank up and right to stand on the ledge. Maybe these should be posted as separate problems?
Comments: 1/4" button-heads with homemade aluminum hangers. They at least look halfway decent (not rusty, and the aluminum hangers aren't elongated or loose) but I sure didn't want to test any of them. The start requires a cheat stone unless you're really tall, and it kind of contrived and silly. The rest of the climbing is decently fun and flows well until the 4th bolt which is in a great spot to provide some hefty rope drag and not really protect you at all for the last bouldery moves to the... more >>
Comments: Anytime you're climbing at the local crags, it's a good idea to bring either some quicklinks and/or chain links to leave permanent rap anchors behind, or at least some webbing and rap rings. El Cajon Mountain may be missing some fixed hardware due to some chopping in the past, and Eagle Peak and Corte Madera are frequently topped out and walked-off of so rap hardware is not always present. I always bring a few sets with me and leave them on the more popular rap anchors when I go. The cheapest... more >>