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Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry <br />Photo: Louie Anderson


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact ACassebeer


Point Rank: # 2,420
Total Points: 201
Last Year: 119
Last 30 Days: 1
19 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (392) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (28) | Comments (51) | Posts (17) | Stars (240) | Ratings (55)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flux Capacitor (5.12c)
By: ACassebeer When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This route is underrated. If you don't think Black Hole is pumpy, climb this.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Pumping Groundwater (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: This route is probably 11+ if you're tall and can climb technical face well. But for shorter folks I think it's solid 5.12, if not harder. I think Sex (5.11d) and up-canyon is harder (at least for me).


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : Lethal Weapon (5.12c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is one of the best at New Jack and would stand up against many others at SoCal crags as well. A strenuous sequence of moves with no real rest. I found the 4th clip inefficient (almost impossible) to clip and was forced to climb past it, clipping from the jug. Great flow on this one.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Crossfire (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: This route is excellent for New Jack City. A route that I did not fully appreciate until I could climb it smoothly.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I highly recommend linking P1 & P2. Based on where the P1 belay is, linking actually seems safer for the leader. The hardest moves were definitely past the 1st bolt on P2. The awesome features on this route seem to set it apart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This route is a harder version of Fiddler on the Roof. The hardest part is that the first move off the ground is 5.11 and it doesn't let up until after the crux on Pitch 1, so no warm-up. There is no move harder than 5.11c on the route. IMO the crux pitch of Levitation 29 is harder than any pitch on this. Every hard move has good protection close by, although it is not as well bolted as a Urioste route. It is a great climb and should not be missed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This route is the real deal: serious, committing, and difficult for the grade. IMO, Texas Tower Direct is much easier and better protected. If I climbed it again I might bring BallNutz. There are lengthy sections that will not take bigger than a #4 BD nut. So no micro-cam will work and because the route has not been beat-out by pitons, you are left with a crack that doesn't really take RP's all that well either. The first 20 ft of Pitch 4 is just plain scary and I personally wish there wer... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : The Emperor aka Pea Soup (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: A good thread on Supertopo with more information, see the comments section: Supertopo Thread


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch rappel (fixed nut and slung tree) can be avoided by rapping directly right 30 ft to the next route's anchor on a ledge. Two new bolts with rap rings.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: P1 - The first bolt is an antique (1/4" rusty button head). You should be a solid 5.10 leader if leading this pitch. The 5.10d crux appears 150' in, but is pretty short.

I thought P1 & P2 were pretty classic. We got off route on P3 and the climbing was pretty forgettable. The pictures above have great beta. Not quite as nice of a line as Spook Book, but definitely worth doing. The bolt on P1 needs replacing.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: P1 - The move to the first bolt is only ~5.9. It is mentally challenging, but not hard. The 5.10a section is after clipping the first bolt. Bolts are modern.

P2 - The definitive crux. Bring RP's or expect to run it out. Recommend linking Pitches 2 & 3.

We brought doubles to #2 Camalot with triples in the finger sizes, offset alloy and brass nuts, regular set of nuts.

This route lives up to its classic status. It is very safe (with the right gear), other than the move to the first bol... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: It was nice to have triples in finger size cams, although not totally necessary. Whereas Atlantis is bouldery and commiting, this route is sustained 5.10+ and keeps you engaged the whole way. There's only 15 feet of 5.11 climbing on the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A link to our Trip Report:

Trip Report: Armatron, 5.9, Red Rocks


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Patricia Lake Grack (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't recommend this route. There are many other warmups to climber's right that are not as loose.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Freedom Fighter (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I was having an off day, but this route seemed difficult for the grade. The gear is good, but the jams are very insecure through the crux.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Raven (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch can easily be top-roped with a single 60m rope (3 bolts, and two chains at the anchor). I protected the route with a single rack from #00 Metolius to 0.5 Camalot, with a single set of regular and offset nuts. The gear looks sparse and tricky from below, but it appears at regular intervals and is solid. Often overlooked, this route is well worth climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : Kilt Wall : Plaid to the Bone (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I did not enjoy this route at all and don't recommend it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Driller Instinct (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: A single 70m rope will not get you safely off this route. It requires some shenanigans clipping in at the first bolt and down climbing. An 80m rope would be better for top-roping.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Woodywhacker (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: This route has really fun and diverse moves, but the rock quality is lacking. Be careful of some friable holds up high.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Maltese Falcon (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes at Clark. Better than Driller Instinct, in my opinion. Good flowy moves, on good rock.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cottage Domes : East Cottage Dome : Orange Plasma (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Best route on the wall, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Inverted Staircase (5.10b PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Expect some grassy and dirty cracks, a slimy inverted staircase pitch, and several no-fall-territory pitches. Bring many slings because the route wanders a lot. We brought doubles through #3 BD C4. I would bring only (1) #3 and add a few extra finger sized pieces. All the bolts on the route are in great shape courtesy of the ASCA.

The route was an adventurous experience, but i wouldn't necessarily recommend this route to a friend. Good for someone who has done all the other classic... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Sherrie's Crack (5.10c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: This crack would be a 5 star classic anywhere else.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Looking Wall : Mighty Earth (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Best route on the wall, IMO.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Secret Agent Man (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: This route is excellent and sustained. There are several devious sections that are difficult to read onsight. Hard for the grade, IMO.


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