Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact ACassebeer

ACassebeer
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,620
Total Points: 229
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ACassebeer been climbing?










Contributions


All 562 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 84 | Posts 27 | Stars 332 | Ratings 91
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Black Angel (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If rappelling from the North summit, you can do so with one 70m rope safely. This requires some 5.1 down-climbing, similar to that on the backside of Cathedral. Dragging 2 ropes out there is not necessary.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway : Freakshow (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree this is one of the better routes at New Jack, also probably my favorite 12a in the area. Good rock with a redpoint boulder problem near the end.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Roadside Crag : ... : Lost In The Middle (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a worthy route. Good rock and great moves the whole way. The redpoint crux at the end is a heartbreaker!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Twin Towers : Date With Destiny (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I would love to hear some consensus from others on this route. I felt like the crux was a V7 boulder problem at minimum. This route feels much more difficult than other routes of similar grade at New Jack. Maybe something has broken or I just missed something.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Tsunami Wall : Aftershock (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is extremely good with nice rock, great flow, and a sustained level of climbing throughout. For the grade, it's an area classic in my book.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Me So Horny (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is kind of like an easier version of Excelsior. It has excellent rock and I agree that it deserves way more traffic. It's height dependent and may be harder if you're short.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hard Copy (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route may not have any single moves harder than 12a, but it is sustained the whole way. I would give it an onsight grade of solid 5.12. It has lots of interesting sequences and probably deserves more traffic than it gets.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Predator Wall : ... : The Predator (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is a great route for the area. The rock quality is very good off the ledge and the crux is pretty unique. There are rests available after each boulder problem, making it pretty reasonable for the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route felt hard for the grade, with one stopper boulder problem. I thought going left at the crux was the easiest path. The last bolt seemed like it was in an odd place and placing the draw from the stance was basically impossible.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I suggest pre-placing the second draw (not stick clipping) and most people will be able to reach it from the good holds. The top of the route is just strange. It would be a good idea to add one bolt to avoid decking when a hold breaks. Otherwise the route is quite good and worth climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Wedgie (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is 12b in Handren's guide and soft compared to other similar routes nearby. I thought it was a very good route though and deserved more credit than the guidebook gave it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Double Kneebar Ranch (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Regardless of the grade, I found this route to be excellent for the area. I think it's probably slightly easier than Lethal Weapon (or equal), and harder than Red Devil for sure. I would also say it's easier than Ride the Wild, which would put it at a solid 5.12c.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Red Devil (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I find the crux to be pretty difficult if you're tall. Although I do agree it's easier than Double Kneebar Ranch, so the grade of 12b seems correct for the area.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Forbidden Fruit (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I second Colin's comment. I climbed this recently after some rain and the entire route was covered in a layer of dirt. When clean it's a great route, but my experience was pretty awful.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Gro... : Bubbs Creek Wall : What's Up Bubb? (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing on the first 8 pitches is quite good, with interesting features and a variety of skills required to redpoint. P3, P7, & P8 are all standout pitches. The climbing above P8 degrades a bit and becomes more adventure climbing to the top. This could be a great partial day adventure by rapping after Pitch 8, or go to the top for the full adventure! Luke's pitch ratings are fair, and in no way sandbagged (IMHO). In summer, we found the climbing to be a little hot on the first 3 pitches. Af... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Schaeffer's Delight (5.7) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, the ledge seemed obvious enough for us so we stopped there. And yes, there were multiple slings there to anchor into.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Pink Wall
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: +1 for using the "new" rap line that begins at the P10 belay. The only tricky part is that the first rap is 30 ft down and 50 ft to climber's left. You can just barely see it on the arÍte when you're at the P10 bolted anchor. From there the raps are straight down. We found it easy in daylight, but it may not be trivial in the dark.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Arch Rocks : Ride The Wild (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good burly route, with lots of variety. It's not quite as good or as clean as Lethal Weapon... but feels more sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.12a R)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, this route climbs better than it looks from the ground. The first moves, although scary looking, aren't really that hard when you commit to them. I would say 10a/b. The first pitch has great movement and consistently unique climbing for Red Rocks. Stellar pitch on maybe the best wall in Red Rocks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Edge Dressing (5.10b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was harder or equal in difficulty to "The Next Century" which is 10d. It has a pretty thin crux at the top. Also, the #4 was unnecessary, there's a lot of other smaller gear that can be used on Pitch 3. Great pitch with awesome rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A 70m rope will not get you down this route, ours didn't reach close enough to clip the anchor. An 80m will make it though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : High Expectations (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux.


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!