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Rock Climbing Photo: Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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ACassebeer
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Point Rank: # 2,526
Total Points: 272
Last Year: 46
Last 30 Days: 0
42 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ACassebeer been climbing?










Contributions


All 642 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 27 | Stars 373 | Ratings 116
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Sunset Alley : The Alley : It's a Good Life (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Really, really good climb. It is comparable in style and quality to the classic routes at the Grail.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Scott Cosgrove Memorial But... : The DX (5.13-)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: This is my favorite route at New Jack and better than The Travesty in my opinion. Also, I believe it's very doable for the grade. This area is significantly warmer and more sheltered than the other common crags. Best conditions are on cooler days in the afternoon (~2pm or later).


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : The Stain (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Watch out! One of the starting jugs is about to pull off this route.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : Death Wish (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Although overshadowed by its neighbor Lethal Weapon, this route is really fun. A ~V3 boulder problem to a semi-rest to a ~V6 boulder problem. I found the route to be incredibly subtle. With good beta the grade came down to 5.12d, but it could be harder for shorter people or if you try to just power through the crux. Jack's simple description above unlocked this whole route for me.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Club Mex Wall : Fear of Flying (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Potrero. It has a really nice flow to it with no throw-away climbing. The crux is also tricky to read!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Disconnected (5.12c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: The wall is a little dirty here, but this route is surprisingly fun. 2.5 stars. The only bad rock is at the anchors.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: The dihedral pitch anchors are single bolt, but they are new bolts at least. There's still a single 1/4" bolt right before the short 5.11 fingercrack that I think Nettle used to belay from at one point. I think that should be the correct place for an anchor since it cuts down on lame rope drag for the 5.11 part. However, I did not replace or remove it (it's next to a nice crack).


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Solar Burn (5.12)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: I agree that this variation is excellent. The cracks are all high quality. In fact, I think it's better and more interesting than the standard Solar Flare start. The unprotected traverse is pretty easy (5.9?), although it's exposed. Place a piece off the belay and move directly left almost immediately. P5 is intimidating-looking from below, but mostly it just requires some trickery to figure out the traverse.

We didn't find RP's useful. If you wanted to add extra pieces, make it in the fingers ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Black Angel (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: If rappelling from the North summit, you can do so with one 70m rope safely. This requires some 5.1 down-climbing, similar to that on the backside of Cathedral. Dragging 2 ropes out there is not necessary.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway : Freakshow (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: I agree this is one of the better routes at New Jack, also probably my favorite 12a in the area. Good rock with a redpoint boulder problem near the end.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Entrance Area Crags : Roadside Crag : ... : Lost In The Middle (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: This is a worthy route. Good rock and great moves the whole way. The redpoint crux at the end is a heartbreaker!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Twin Towers : Date With Destiny (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: I would love to hear some consensus from others on this route. I felt like the crux was a V7 boulder problem at minimum. This route feels much more difficult than other routes of similar grade at New Jack. Maybe something has broken or I just missed something.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Tsunami Wall : Aftershock (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is extremely good with nice rock, great flow, and a sustained level of climbing throughout. For the grade, it's an area classic in my book.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Me So Horny (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This is kind of like an easier version of Excelsior. It has excellent rock and I agree that it deserves way more traffic. It's height dependent and may be harder if you're short.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hard Copy (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This route may not have any single moves harder than 12a, but it is sustained the whole way. I would give it an onsight grade of solid 5.12. It has lots of interesting sequences and probably deserves more traffic than it gets.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Predator Wall : ... : The Predator (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: I think this is a great route for the area. The rock quality is very good off the ledge and the crux is pretty unique. There are rests available after each boulder problem, making it pretty reasonable for the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route felt hard for the grade, with one stopper boulder problem. I thought going left at the crux was the easiest path. The last bolt seemed like it was in an odd place and placing the draw from the stance was basically impossible.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I suggest pre-placing the second draw (not stick clipping) and most people will be able to reach it from the good holds. The top of the route is just strange. It would be a good idea to add one bolt to avoid decking when a hold breaks. Otherwise the route is quite good and worth climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Wedgie (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is 12b in Handren's guide and soft compared to other similar routes nearby. I thought it was a very good route though and deserved more credit than the guidebook gave it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Double Kneebar Ranch (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Regardless of the grade, I found this route to be excellent for the area. I think it's probably slightly easier than Lethal Weapon (or equal), and harder than Red Devil for sure. I would also say it's easier than Ride the Wild, which would put it at a solid 5.12c.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Red Devil (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: I find the crux to be pretty difficult if you're tall. Although I do agree it's easier than Double Kneebar Ranch, so the grade of 12b seems correct for the area.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Forbidden Fruit (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: I second Colin's comment. I climbed this recently after some rain and the entire route was covered in a layer of dirt. When clean it's a great route, but my experience was pretty awful.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Bubbs Creek Wall : What's Up Bubb? (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: The climbing on the first 8 pitches is quite good, with interesting features and a variety of skills required to redpoint. P3, P7, & P8 are all standout pitches. The climbing above P8 degrades a bit and becomes more adventure climbing to the top. This could be a great partial day adventure by rapping after Pitch 8, or go to the top for the full adventure! Luke's pitch ratings are fair, and in no way sandbagged (IMHO). In summer, we found the climbing to be a little hot on the first 3 pitches. Af... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Schaeffer's Delight (5.7) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Chris, the ledge seemed obvious enough for us so we stopped there. And yes, there were multiple slings there to anchor into.


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