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Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry <br />Photo: Louie Anderson


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,502
Total Points: 207
Last Year: 107
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 436 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvments | Comments 57 | Posts 23 | Stars 263 | Ratings 63
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Approach: avoid the snow and scramble up the broken ledges on the right hand side. I don't know why anyone would risk going up that snowfield with the other option available.

I highly recommend using a 30m rope. The 30m will keep the drag low, get you through the crux pitch, set you up for an easy belay, and allow you to rap to a nice ledge on the descent with 20' of 5.0 downclimbing to Contact Pass. A rope any longer will just give you more trouble than it's worth.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : G.E.D. (Git 'er Done) (5.11+)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: I thought the route was safe without bringing any gear. This route has great rock (especially the headwall) and a strenuous crux at the top. Great addition to Pine Creek!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Approach: I like walking down around the Necromancer and back up to the base. Casual, 20-25 minutes.

Descent: Climb to the top of the Warlock (or solo) for 2 more pitches. Easily do 3 raps down Ghostbumps with a 70m (60m may be close). Nice new hardware on the Ghostbumps anchors.

Pitch 4: Lockout your left elbow for the mantel move and press it out. Pretend you're bouldering. It's much harder otherwise.
Pitches 7 & 8: As strange as it seems, stemming makes it go down way easier... even if it ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Wow, wow, wow. This route is amazing. This is as good as anything in the Valley and other highly trafficked areas. P3 looks impossible to protect from below, but it's shockingly safe... Save a blue and yellow Metolius size, the holds (and gear) will appear.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Black Rabbit (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is another one of those Needles routes that gets no traffic and is overshadowed by all the classics nearby. This route would be considered excellent pretty much anywhere. I found gear as big as a #2 BD C4, but the gear is mostly thin. From the start it looks like there's no gear, but it's all there. I cleaned the crack out with my nut tool on rappel for the next climbers that try it. Get on it!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Cosmonaut (V6)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: I've heard rumors that a hold has broken, making this problem harder. Not sure, but it felt harder than most other V6's in the area.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flux Capacitor (5.12c)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: This route is underrated. If you don't think Black Hole is pumpy, climb this.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Pumping Groundwater (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: This route is probably 11+ if you're tall and can climb technical face well. But for shorter folks I think it's solid 5.12, if not harder. I think Sex (5.11d) and up-canyon is harder (at least for me).


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : Lethal Weapon (5.12c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is one of the best at New Jack and would stand up against many others at SoCal crags as well. A strenuous sequence of moves with no real rest. I found the 4th clip inefficient (almost impossible) to clip and was forced to climb past it, clipping from the jug. Great flow on this one.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Crossfire (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: This route is excellent for New Jack City. A route that I did not fully appreciate until I could climb it smoothly.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I highly recommend linking P1 & P2. Based on where the P1 belay is, linking actually seems safer for the leader. The hardest moves were definitely past the 1st bolt on P2. The awesome features on this route seem to set it apart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This route is a harder version of Fiddler on the Roof. The hardest part is that the first move off the ground is 5.11 and it doesn't let up until after the crux on Pitch 1, so no warm-up. There is no move harder than 5.11c on the route. IMO the crux pitch of Levitation 29 is harder than any pitch on this. Every hard move has good protection close by, although it is not as well bolted as a Urioste route. It is a great climb and should not be missed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This route is the real deal: serious, committing, and difficult for the grade. IMO, Texas Tower Direct is much easier and better protected. If I climbed it again I might bring BallNutz. There are lengthy sections that will not take bigger than a #4 BD nut. So no micro-cam will work and because the route has not been beat-out by pitons, you are left with a crack that doesn't really take RP's all that well either. The first 20 ft of Pitch 4 is just plain scary and I personally wish there wer... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : The Emperor aka Pea Soup (5.11+)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: A good thread on Supertopo with more information, see the comments section: Supertopo Thread


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch rappel (fixed nut and slung tree) can be avoided by rapping directly right 30 ft to the next route's anchor on a ledge. Two new bolts with rap rings.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : The Entity (5.10d R)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: P1 - The first bolt is an antique (1/4" rusty button head). You should be a solid 5.10 leader if leading this pitch. The 5.10d crux appears 150' in, but is pretty short.

I thought P1 & P2 were pretty classic. We got off route on P3 and the climbing was pretty forgettable. The pictures above have great beta. Not quite as nice of a line as Spook Book, but definitely worth doing. The bolt on P1 needs replacing.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: P1 - The move to the first bolt is only ~5.9. It is mentally challenging, but not hard. The 5.10a section is after clipping the first bolt. Bolts are modern.

P2 - The definitive crux. Bring RP's or expect to run it out. Recommend linking Pitches 2 & 3.

We brought doubles to #2 Camalot with triples in the finger sizes, offset alloy and brass nuts, regular set of nuts.

This route lives up to its classic status. It is very safe (with the right gear), other than the move to the first bol... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: It was nice to have triples in finger size cams, although not totally necessary. Whereas Atlantis is bouldery and commiting, this route is sustained 5.10+ and keeps you engaged the whole way. There's only 15 feet of 5.11 climbing on the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: A link to our Trip Report:

Trip Report: Armatron, 5.9, Red Rocks


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Patricia Lake Grack (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't recommend this route. There are many other warmups to climber's right that are not as loose.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Freedom Fighter (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I was having an off day, but this route seemed difficult for the grade. The gear is good, but the jams are very insecure through the crux.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Raven (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch can easily be top-roped with a single 60m rope (3 bolts, and two chains at the anchor). I protected the route with a single rack from #00 Metolius to 0.5 Camalot, with a single set of regular and offset nuts. The gear looks sparse and tricky from below, but it appears at regular intervals and is solid. Often overlooked, this route is well worth climbing.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : Kilt Wall : Plaid to the Bone (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I did not enjoy this route at all and don't recommend it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Driller Instinct (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: A single 70m rope will not get you safely off this route. It requires some shenanigans clipping in at the first bolt and down climbing. An 80m rope would be better for top-roping.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Main Island : ... : Woodywhacker (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: This route has really fun and diverse moves, but the rock quality is lacking. Be careful of some friable holds up high.


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