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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Grotto and Base of the Grea... : Turkey Day Surprise (5.10b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a clean and worthwhile route. The anchor has two bolts and fixed slings/aluminum biners.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Grotto and Base of the Grea... : Scotch on the Rocks (5.8+)
By: ACassebeer When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got my rope stuck halfway up the pitch and had to re-climb it to retrieve; pull from the left. You can climb this route with a single 60m rope with about 8 ft of down-climbing.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Grotto and Base of the Grea... : Batteries not Included (5.12a/b)
By: ACassebeer When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was excited to check this crack out, but Gaar is correct. The length of the crack is completely overgrown with grass and plants. To climb this route someone will have to do some serious cleaning.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Inner Chi (5.11)
By: ACassebeer When: May 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As noted by Gargano above, this route has a one-bolt rap ring anchor. There are currently aluminum biners on the anchor bolt and last bolt, which people are lowering off of.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: All (12) belay stations on this route have slings and aluminum rap rings. This route really could use some steel quicklinks and all slings removed. This is a good reminder to always bring a few on big routes in Red Rocks.
Handren's pitch lengths are off a bit. With a 70m rope we linked, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 8/9, 10/11. There was rope to spare on all of these pitches.
-Aaron
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend using half ropes if you have them. The gear is solid, but spaced. Pitch 6 & 7 belays have rap slings, but no rap rings like the other lower belays. Of the two, Pitch 7 slings need the most attention... Or just bring some quick links with you (I should have).
Most importantly, I was consistently amazed and happy with how the first ascentionists followed their line. Gear shows up at the most random times in very sequential places. And the lack of bolts is a nice contrast to the other... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has recently lost a key hold. A diagonal rail that guarded the last hard move before the anchors came off in the past few weeks. The consensus for my friends and I is that the route is probably 12b. The newest guidebook suggests 12a. Only time will tell.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crucified Crag : Life Returns (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, this route is difficult for the grade. The crux is technical and hard to read. It felt harder to me than many of the other 5.11a's in the area. That being said, it is a really fun route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Tower Direct (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's difficult to compare this route to the Original Route on Rainbow Wall... it just has a totally different feel. True, the first approach pitch is low quality. However, the climbing on the route improves as you get higher. P3 is very good. P4 is a cool boulder problem traverse that is difficult to read for the grade. P5(the crux) is excellent and as clean as it gets in Red Rocks. There is about 10 feet of hard climbing and the rest of the pitch is really clean 5.11. The arete moves to the anc... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The spring at the base it still running as of 7/21/12, although pretty slowly.
Also, the fixed lines are in good shape and all in the right places, per Supertopo.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Stars and Stripes Forever (5.9)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is one bolt on the face as mentioned above. It is a 1/4" buttonhead and the runout is a solid 25' to the top with one "hard" move after it.
This route feels like an alpine climb. The line is not as clean as most of its neighbors, but it's a great warmup. If you're solid you can climb all the way to the summit in one pitch with a 70m rope.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is extraordinary! The rock quality, position, and climbing are all amazing.
P1: I used a #3 & #4 C4 and felt very comfortable that way.
P3: Use the Lost at Sea bolted anchor after the hand crack. Every stance above this either has questionable gear or is semi-hanging.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is as good as 5.7 gets.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Space Walk (5.11c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is hard for the grade, IMHO. The only real beta is to keep climbing and don't stall out placing gear. Definitely pumpy!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: ACassebeer When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend Rp's for the 1st pitch or at least BD nuts in the #3 & #4 sizes. Micro-cams only work higher up.
This route is awesome. The cruxes are short and it seems similar in difficulty to the Vampire for me. Even the 5.8 P3 is great. Get on it!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Cuss Terr's Last Stand (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with others. I think the last move makes the climb better. I think the point is to clip the anchor without grabbing the chains. Height is irrelevant. If you can't do this, work on your flexibility. It's not that hard, just my opinion.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Boldly Departed (5.11b)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will probably be harder for shorter people. I think a key hold has broken at the arete move which makes the climb a little more dynamic. Overall, the holds are a little awkward in spots, but still well worth doing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Southeast Buttress (5.6)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of July 3, 2011:
1. Route is clean, clear, and no water/snow on route.
2. Slabs and ledges on descent are clear and dry.
3. Once over the notch and coming back towards your packs, there is 100 yards of deep snow travel.
4. There is a lot of snow on the approach once you leave Budd Creek. Snow drifts are as deep as 4 ft in some places. It is almost impossible to find any trail once you leave the creek.
I recommend approaching in some half decent boots instead of just low-top approach shoes... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: ACassebeer When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed line is alive and well as of 5/7/11. The route is in great condition; No water on the approach slabs or on the route. Temps were perfect for us on route with it being 85-90 in the city. Pants and t-shirt weather.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Pro Choice (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is worth doing once. There is loose & hollow rock on the first 3 pitches. The final 11a pitch is a one move wonder, although the crux is fun on good rock.
I recommend also doing the Pro Life variation to the last pitch. It is much higher quality.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Regular Route (5.9)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps the biggest surpise to me on this route was that most of the gear was small, not hand-size like I assumed from the grade. Bring nuts and doubles of tcu's/master cams. I think I placed the #3 C4 once on the whole route. A little disappointed at the quality, but it is a beautiful line up a big piece of rock. West Crack is better.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Sheila (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three fixed cams as of 8-28-10.
1. One below the start of the crux lieback. (got stuck when my partner whipped off the crux, she didn't have a #6)
2. One up and to the left of the lieback. (It is possible to actually climb around the crux and do a variation up and left of the flake. I think this piece is from someone else also climbing this variation, 5.9???)
3. There's a fixed forged friend in the chimney if you look for it. You could actually avoid bringing the #4 at all ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Queen of the Heartbreaks (5.11c)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Shadow for putting up this amazing route. Overall, I was surprised at how moderate it was. There are some 5.11 moves, but most of the long face is closer to 5.10. This is a great line and a lot of fun. One of my favorites now in Pine Creek for its length and endless technical face.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Flame Thrower (5.11c)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very well-bolted. The face climbing below the roof is actually much better than it looks from the ground. The roof holds are big, don't be intimidated.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Supergrinder (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch needs some more climbing to clean up. An okay pitch.
P2 is much better, with a couple hard moves off the belay followed by more moderate face. Exposed and fun.
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