Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 12, 2014
Contact ACassebeer


Point Rank: # 2,538
Total Points: 214
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 2
26 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ACassebeer been climbing?










Contributions


All 483 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 22 | Stars 291 | Ratings 73
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Bubbs Creek Wall : What's Up Bubb? (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing on the first 8 pitches is quite good, with interesting features and a variety of skills required to redpoint. P3, P7, & P8 are all standout pitches. The climbing above P8 degrades a bit and becomes more adventure climbing to the top. This could be a great partial day adventure by rapping after Pitch 8, or go to the top for the full adventure! Luke's pitch ratings are fair, and in no way sandbagged (IMHO). In summer, we found the climbing to be a little hot on the first 3 pitches. Af... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Schaeffer's Delight (5.7) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, the ledge seemed obvious enough for us so we stopped there. And yes, there were multiple slings there to anchor into.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Pink Wall
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: +1 for using the "new" rap line that begins at the P10 belay. The only tricky part is that the first rap is 30 ft down and 50 ft to climber's left. You can just barely see it on the arÍte when you're at the P10 bolted anchor. From there the raps are straight down. We found it easy in daylight, but it may not be trivial in the dark.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Arch Rocks : Ride The Wild (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good burly route, with lots of variety. It's not quite as good or as clean as Lethal Weapon... but feels more sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.12a R)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, this route climbs better than it looks from the ground. The first moves, although scary looking, aren't really that hard when you commit to them. I would say 10a/b. The first pitch has great movement and consistently unique climbing for Red Rocks. Stellar pitch on maybe the best wall in Red Rocks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Edge Dressing (5.10b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was harder or equal in difficulty to "The Next Century" which is 10d. It has a pretty thin crux at the top. Also, the #4 was unnecessary, there's a lot of other smaller gear that can be used on Pitch 3. Great pitch with awesome rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A 70m rope will not get you down this route, ours didn't reach close enough to clip the anchor. An 80m will make it though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : High Expectations (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The two 1/4" protection bolts on Pitch 4 were replaced on Aug 31, 2014. They are now 3" long x 3/8" diameter, SS. We used the original holes.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No problem Vlad! It was worth the effort.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Approach: avoid the snow and scramble up the broken ledges on the right hand side. I don't know why anyone would risk going up that snowfield with the other option available.

I highly recommend using a 30m rope. The 30m will keep the drag low, get you through the crux pitch, set you up for an easy belay, and allow you to rap to a nice ledge on the descent with 20' of 5.0 downclimbing to Contact Pass. A rope any longer will just give you more trouble than it's worth.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : G.E.D. (Git 'er Done) (5.11+)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the route was safe without bringing any gear. This route has great rock (especially the headwall) and a strenuous crux at the top. Great addition to Pine Creek!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Approach: I like walking down around the Necromancer and back up to the base. Casual, 20-25 minutes.

Descent: Climb to the top of the Warlock (or solo) for 2 more pitches. Easily do 3 raps down Ghostbumps with a 70m (60m may be close). Nice new hardware on the Ghostbumps anchors.

Pitch 4: Lockout your left elbow for the mantel move and press it out. Pretend you're bouldering. It's much harder otherwise.
Pitches 7 & 8: As strange as it seems, stemming makes it go down way easier... even if it ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, wow, wow. This route is amazing. This is as good as anything in the Valley and other highly trafficked areas. P3 looks impossible to protect from below, but it's shockingly safe... Save a blue and yellow Metolius size, the holds (and gear) will appear.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Black Rabbit (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is another one of those Needles routes that gets no traffic and is overshadowed by all the classics nearby. This route would be considered excellent pretty much anywhere. I found gear as big as a #2 BD C4, but the gear is mostly thin. From the start it looks like there's no gear, but it's all there. I cleaned the crack out with my nut tool on rappel for the next climbers that try it. Get on it!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Cosmonaut (V6)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've heard rumors that a hold has broken, making this problem harder. Not sure, but it felt harder than most other V6's in the area.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flux Capacitor (5.12c)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is underrated. If you don't think Black Hole is pumpy, climb this.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Pumping Groundwater (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is probably 11+ if you're tall and can climb technical face well. But for shorter folks I think it's solid 5.12, if not harder. I think Sex (5.11d) and up-canyon is harder (at least for me).


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : Lethal Weapon (5.12c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is one of the best at New Jack and would stand up against many others at SoCal crags as well. A strenuous sequence of moves with no real rest. I found the 4th clip inefficient (almost impossible) to clip and was forced to climb past it, clipping from the jug. Great flow on this one.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Crossfire (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is excellent for New Jack City. A route that I did not fully appreciate until I could climb it smoothly.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I highly recommend linking P1 & P2. Based on where the P1 belay is, linking actually seems safer for the leader. The hardest moves were definitely past the 1st bolt on P2. The awesome features on this route seem to set it apart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a harder version of Fiddler on the Roof. The hardest part is that the first move off the ground is 5.11 and it doesn't let up until after the crux on Pitch 1, so no warm-up. There is no move harder than 5.11c on the route. IMO the crux pitch of Levitation 29 is harder than any pitch on this. Every hard move has good protection close by, although it is not as well bolted as a Urioste route. It is a great climb and should not be missed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Jet Stream (5.12+)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route is the real deal: serious, committing, and difficult for the grade. IMO, Texas Tower Direct is much easier and better protected. If I climbed it again I might bring BallNutz. There are lengthy sections that will not take bigger than a #4 BD nut. So no micro-cam will work and because the route has not been beat-out by pitons, you are left with a crack that doesn't really take RP's all that well either. The first 20 ft of Pitch 4 is just plain scary and I personally wish there wer... more >>


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>