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Rock Climbing Photo: Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 22, 2016
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ACassebeer
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Point Rank: # 2,460
Total Points: 298
Last Year: 67
Last 30 Days: 16
44 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ACassebeer been climbing?










Contributions


All 661 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 98 | Posts 27 | Stars 380 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Road Crew (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Best hard route at Holcomb in my opinion. Really cool holds and pumpy!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : The Land That Time Forgot : Bighorn Buttress
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: I climbed the route farthest right this past spring. There was still dust from the drilling operation. It felt 5.11d to me and is quite fun for the area.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Bear Crag : The Tombstone : Reanimator (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Big moves between good holds and great climbing. Reminiscent of Chocolate to Morphine.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Bear Crag : Unenchanted Forest : Penetrator (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: This is probably one of the best sport routes on the eastside for its grade. Very sustained at the 11+ to 12- grade, good rock, great movement.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Bear Crag : Teflon Wall : Supersizer (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I found this route to be chossy and not worthy of classic status. Maybe it just doesn't get climbed enough. Either way, it's one of my least favorite routes at the crag.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Bear Crag : The Columns : Mercy Buckets (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Really fun climbing on mostly good holds.


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Sunset Alley : The Alley : It's a Good Life (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Really, really good climb. It is comparable in style and quality to the classic routes at the Grail.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Scott Cosgrove Memorial But... : The DX (5.13-)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: This is my favorite route at New Jack and better than The Travesty in my opinion. Also, I believe it's very doable for the grade. This area is significantly warmer and more sheltered than the other common crags. Best conditions are on cooler days in the afternoon (~2pm or later).


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : The Stain (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Watch out! One of the starting jugs is about to pull off this route.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : Death Wish (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: Although overshadowed by its neighbor Lethal Weapon, this route is really fun. A ~V3 boulder problem to a semi-rest to a ~V6 boulder problem. I found the route to be incredibly subtle. With good beta the grade came down to 5.12d, but it could be harder for shorter people or if you try to just power through the crux. Jack's simple description above unlocked this whole route for me.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Club Mex Wall : Fear of Flying (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at Potrero. It has a really nice flow to it with no throw-away climbing. The crux is also tricky to read!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Disconnected (5.12c/d)
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: The wall is a little dirty here, but this route is surprisingly fun. 2.5 stars. The only bad rock is at the anchors.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: The dihedral pitch anchors are single bolt, but they are new bolts at least. There's still a single 1/4" bolt right before the short 5.11 fingercrack that I think Nettle used to belay from at one point. I think that should be the correct place for an anchor since it cuts down on lame rope drag for the 5.11 part. However, I did not replace or remove it (it's next to a nice crack).


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Solar Burn (5.12)
By: ACassebeer When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: I agree that this variation is excellent. The cracks are all high quality. In fact, I think it's better and more interesting than the standard Solar Flare start. The unprotected traverse is pretty easy (5.9?), although it's exposed. Place a piece off the belay and move directly left almost immediately. P5 is intimidating-looking from below, but mostly it just requires some trickery to figure out the traverse.

We didn't find RP's useful. If you wanted to add extra pieces, make it in the fingers ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Black Angel (5.11a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: ACassebeer When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: If rappelling from the North summit, you can do so with one 70m rope safely. This requires some 5.1 down-climbing, similar to that on the backside of Cathedral. Dragging 2 ropes out there is not necessary.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway : Freakshow (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: I agree this is one of the better routes at New Jack, also probably my favorite 12a in the area. Good rock with a redpoint boulder problem near the end.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Entrance Area Crags : Roadside Crag : ... : Lost In The Middle (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: This is a worthy route. Good rock and great moves the whole way. The redpoint crux at the end is a heartbreaker!


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Twin Towers : Date With Destiny (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: I would love to hear some consensus from others on this route. I felt like the crux was a V7 boulder problem at minimum. This route feels much more difficult than other routes of similar grade at New Jack. Maybe something has broken or I just missed something.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Tsunami Wall : Aftershock (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is extremely good with nice rock, great flow, and a sustained level of climbing throughout. For the grade, it's an area classic in my book.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Me So Horny (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This is kind of like an easier version of Excelsior. It has excellent rock and I agree that it deserves way more traffic. It's height dependent and may be harder if you're short.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hard Copy (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This route may not have any single moves harder than 12a, but it is sustained the whole way. I would give it an onsight grade of solid 5.12. It has lots of interesting sequences and probably deserves more traffic than it gets.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Predator Wall : ... : The Predator (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: I think this is a great route for the area. The rock quality is very good off the ledge and the crux is pretty unique. There are rests available after each boulder problem, making it pretty reasonable for the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route felt hard for the grade, with one stopper boulder problem. I thought going left at the crux was the easiest path. The last bolt seemed like it was in an odd place and placing the draw from the stance was basically impossible.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I suggest pre-placing the second draw (not stick clipping) and most people will be able to reach it from the good holds. The top of the route is just strange. It would be a good idea to add one bolt to avoid decking when a hold breaks. Otherwise the route is quite good and worth climbing.


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