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Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry Photo: Louie A...


Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,496
Total Points: 220
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 5
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ACassebeer been climbing?










Contributions


All 516 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts 24 | Stars 311 | Ratings 78
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Death Before Decaf (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route felt hard for the grade, with one stopper boulder problem. I thought going left at the crux was the easiest path. The last bolt seemed like it was in an odd place and placing the draw from the stance was basically impossible.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I suggest pre-placing the second draw (not stick clipping) and most people will be able to reach it from the good holds. The top of the route is just strange. It would be a good idea to add one bolt to avoid decking when a hold breaks. Otherwise the route is quite good and worth climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Wedgie (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is 12b in Handren's guide and soft compared to other similar routes nearby. I thought it was a very good route though and deserved more credit than the guidebook gave it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Crossfire Crag : Double Kneebar Ranch (5.12b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Regardless of the grade, I found this route to be excellent for the area. I think it's probably slightly easier than Lethal Weapon (or equal), and harder than Red Devil for sure. I would also say it's easier than Ride the Wild, which would put it at a solid 5.12c.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Red Devil (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: I find the crux to be pretty difficult if you're tall. Although I do agree it's easier than Double Kneebar Ranch, so the grade of 12b seems correct for the area.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : Forbidden Fruit (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: I second Colin's comment. I climbed this recently after some rain and the entire route was covered in a layer of dirt. When clean it's a great route, but my experience was pretty awful.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Bubbs Creek Wall : What's Up Bubb? (5.12a)
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: The climbing on the first 8 pitches is quite good, with interesting features and a variety of skills required to redpoint. P3, P7, & P8 are all standout pitches. The climbing above P8 degrades a bit and becomes more adventure climbing to the top. This could be a great partial day adventure by rapping after Pitch 8, or go to the top for the full adventure! Luke's pitch ratings are fair, and in no way sandbagged (IMHO). In summer, we found the climbing to be a little hot on the first 3 pitches. Af... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Schaeffer's Delight (5.7) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: Chris, the ledge seemed obvious enough for us so we stopped there. And yes, there were multiple slings there to anchor into.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Pink Wall
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs
By: ACassebeer When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: I lost a brown hooded fleece jacket on Feb 16, 2014 at Echo. I left it at the base of Meager and Weak, Pink Wall. If someone finds it I would love to get it back. Thanks, Aaron.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: +1 for using the "new" rap line that begins at the P10 belay. The only tricky part is that the first rap is 30 ft down and 50 ft to climber's left. You can just barely see it on the arÍte when you're at the P10 bolted anchor. From there the raps are straight down. We found it easy in daylight, but it may not be trivial in the dark.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Arch Rocks : Ride The Wild (5.12d)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a good burly route, with lots of variety. It's not quite as good or as clean as Lethal Weapon... but feels more sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.12a R)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Wow, this route climbs better than it looks from the ground. The first moves, although scary looking, aren't really that hard when you commit to them. I would say 10a/b. The first pitch has great movement and consistently unique climbing for Red Rocks. Stellar pitch on maybe the best wall in Red Rocks.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Edge Dressing (5.10b/c)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was harder or equal in difficulty to "The Next Century" which is 10d. It has a pretty thin crux at the top. Also, the #4 was unnecessary, there's a lot of other smaller gear that can be used on Pitch 3. Great pitch with awesome rock.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: ACassebeer When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: A 70m rope will not get you down this route, ours didn't reach close enough to clip the anchor. An 80m will make it though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : High Expectations (5.10d)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d)
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: The two 1/4" protection bolts on Pitch 4 were replaced on Aug 31, 2014. They are now 3" long x 3/8" diameter, SS. We used the original holes.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Tradewinds (5.11d) : Photo
By: ACassebeer When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: No problem Vlad! It was worth the effort.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Approach: avoid the snow and scramble up the broken ledges on the right hand side. I don't know why anyone would risk going up that snowfield with the other option available.

I highly recommend using a 30m rope. The 30m will keep the drag low, get you through the crux pitch, set you up for an easy belay, and allow you to rap to a nice ledge on the descent with 20' of 5.0 downclimbing to Contact Pass. A rope any longer will just give you more trouble than it's worth.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : G.E.D. (Git 'er Done) (5.11+)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: I thought the route was safe without bringing any gear. This route has great rock (especially the headwall) and a strenuous crux at the top. Great addition to Pine Creek!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: ACassebeer When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Approach: I like walking down around the Necromancer and back up to the base. Casual, 20-25 minutes.

Descent: Climb to the top of the Warlock (or solo) for 2 more pitches. Easily do 3 raps down Ghostbumps with a 70m (60m may be close). Nice new hardware on the Ghostbumps anchors.

Pitch 4: Lockout your left elbow for the mantel move and press it out. Pretend you're bouldering. It's much harder otherwise.
Pitches 7 & 8: As strange as it seems, stemming makes it go down way easier... even if it ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Wow, wow, wow. This route is amazing. This is as good as anything in the Valley and other highly trafficked areas. P3 looks impossible to protect from below, but it's shockingly safe... Save a blue and yellow Metolius size, the holds (and gear) will appear.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Black Rabbit (5.10a)
By: ACassebeer When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is another one of those Needles routes that gets no traffic and is overshadowed by all the classics nearby. This route would be considered excellent pretty much anywhere. I found gear as big as a #2 BD C4, but the gear is mostly thin. From the start it looks like there's no gear, but it's all there. I cleaned the crack out with my nut tool on rappel for the next climbers that try it. Get on it!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Cosmonaut (V6)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: I've heard rumors that a hold has broken, making this problem harder. Not sure, but it felt harder than most other V6's in the area.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Flux Capacitor (5.12c)
By: ACassebeer When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: This route is underrated. If you don't think Black Hole is pumpy, climb this.


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