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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact ac

Point Rank: # 2,008
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has ac been climbing?


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham R... (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Jul 20, 2004

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Comments: The route is named "Return to Sender" in Pegg's guide.

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Lick My Love Pump aka Love ... (5.10b)
By: ac When: Jul 16, 2004

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Comments: Just simple lines intertwining, you know, very much like... I'm really influenced by Mozart and Bach, and it's sort of in between those, really. It's like a Mach piece, really. -Nigel

Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: ac When: Jul 14, 2004

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Comments: John, were the rap bolts on Holdout chopped or just had the hangers removed? Someone else posted a comment in June that someone stole all the hangers on the rap Holdout anchors. It would be good to know if we're dealing with some cheap prick stealing hangers or a deranged moron who's chopping bolts.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jul 10, 2004

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Comments: ...or you can lead it in one pitch with a 60-meter rope with no simulclimbing.

Great route!

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: ac When: Jul 7, 2004

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Comments: WARNING - there are at least 2 bears roaming the campgrounds at Rifle. The park people have done very little to post any signs warning campers of this. I have heard of tents getting slashed open for the last 2 weekends. Use all neccessary precautions.

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : Final Finger (5.9+)
By: ac When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: Jimn, do you realize you rated the quality of this route a "bomb" which means 0 stars, putrid, ugly rock, etc? But your written description of the route says "excellent". You may be accidentally using the "bomb" when you didn't intend to.

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Land of the Overhangs : Flake lunge (V3)
By: ac When: Jul 1, 2004

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Comments: FA: John Bachar

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: ac When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: The free camping at the "dirt pile" appears to be no more. There are new No Trespassing signs there. This was a popular spot for climbers looking for a free spot to camp but now they'll need to look for other spots.

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: ac When: Jun 25, 2004

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Comments: Anonymous Coward, you obviously don't climb at Horsetooth very much. There are almost as many variations and squeeze jobs at Rotary Park as there are at Morrison. OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but not much.

Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Newlin Creek : Parking Lot Rock : Nincombook (5.10a)
By: ac When: Jun 23, 2004

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Comments: Crusher, you might want to reread your comment and see if it applies to your own post.

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2004

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Comments: OK, so if the Palace is closed to further development...that means a bolting/trail building ban. That's not the same as a closure to climbing. Or did I misinterpret your post. Any idea who should be contacted at the Forest Service to discuss this?

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 22, 2004

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Comments: Regarding the Palace closure - can you be a little more specific about your information??

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: Are you sure the Palace area is closed? How did you find out? Are there signs posted, or did a ranger stop you from climbing one day? I know there was some flack in the last year about unauthourized trail construction. But I heard that was all cleared up.

What's the official word?

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Sea of Joy (5.13a A0)
By: ac When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Tim, just curious, how is someone without a guidebook going to know how to get to this climb? Nothing in your description gives those details. I pity the fool that tries to find any route based solely on descriptions here, with the exception of new routes going up in Boulder Canyon like Plotinus Wall where the people posting have been thorough in their descriptions.

Please save your wit for rec.weanie.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: ac When: Jun 7, 2004

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Comments: Ernie and Larry, thanks for the additional historical perspective. By the time Rocky Heights was published, Rosy's reputation was far tamer than that. I don't know if there were different pins by that time, but I know that Rosy was often one of the first multi-pitch 5.10's that climbers would go after while progressing through the number grades (it was my 2nd 5.10). I guess climbers had more blind faith in those pins back then. Circa 1980, Rosy was certainly not a climb where you felt that a... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: ac When: May 26, 2004

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Comments: Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away?

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.3)
By: ac When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: Hmmm.... Can anyone actually tell the difference between a 5.2 and a 5.4? I'm not much of a climber - 5.8 usually feels pretty stiff for me; 5.10 is out of the question - but I've never been able to tell the difference. I like Gerry Roach's scale: 5.0-2; 5.3-4; 5.5; etc. Let's face it: even if you are climbing in approach shoes or hiking boots, there are simply not five gradations of difficulty between 4th class and 5.5.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Monkey Traverse
By: ac When: May 24, 2004

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Comments: The boulder below the finish was moved sometime last fall. The first time I noticed "the move" was immediately after last years Flagstaff trail work and cleanup weekend. I sincerley hoped this was just coincidence.

I posted this disheartening change to the message board and the overwhelming response would fall in the categories of either "I don't care its just Flagstaff", "its better with the rock moved", or "boulders move... the rains probably did it".


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : 420s : SW Face of The Warmup Bould... (V3-4)
By: ac When: May 18, 2004

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Comments: Nope Andy and I'm not sure why you would think so. Just left of the downclimb for this boulder, begin from a sit-start on low holds above a tree stump. Get your feet up and do an improbable mantel that will help you snatch the next left hand hold. Easy to finish from there.

Have fun.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: ac When: May 17, 2004

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Comments: An excellent route, but probably not the route for an aspiring 5.10 leader -- one needs to either be able to "hang out" mid crux and place pro or confidently run it out until the climbing eases off...

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bourgeois Belay Slave aka B... (5.10b)
By: ac When: May 14, 2004

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Comments: Anonymous Coward from is user "Sirius".....

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon
By: ac When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: Palace beta: crossing the Poudre in the Spring can be nearly impossible in the Spring. Check the water levels before you drive up there by checking the following website:

A flow of 50-100 CFS is probably crossable but don't even think about it when it's at 1000 CFS! Also note that water levels can rise real quick. In May 2004 the water went from 70 CFS to 700 CFS in under 48 hours.

I believe this graph would also... more >>

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: ac When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Quote from AC, IP #

"Matt.Lighten up. I think AC was just giving his constructive criticism. Humble yourself, and take it for what its worth. Sounds like the route has not been climbed much, and so to agree with Paul's comment: just wait and see what other's inputs are. You might want to leave room for other climber's opinions that might not be able to climb as "hard" as you. The chalk and butts you mentioned is uncalled for, but easily cleaned up, I would imagine.

AC, sto... more >>

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: Looks like a lot of people are awfully concerned by the imaginary difference between new and old sport climbs. I think this is bullsh!t, but that's beside the point. Perhaps Fred, Hank, and the ACs should ask themselves why this bothers them so much. Is it ego? Does the fact that people are climbing these supposedly soft-13a's and saying, "I climbed a 13a," make you feel like your climbing resume/prowesses are being threatened? Does that make all your 13a/b sends feel a little less impressi... more >>

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: ac When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: It seems as if rational thought processes are getting a toehold. Anyway, the best way to rid ourselves of grade inflation is to define the Front Range or CO standards. A lot of people will say this is a stupid exercise in worthless grademongering, but at least hear me out before you do so.

As you are all too aware, half the problem with grades is the importance the media and our egos place on them. Up-and-comers are constantly trying to climb bigger numbers while some old timers are in denial a... more >>

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