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Member Since: Aug 14, 2002
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact ac


Point Rank: # 1,623
Total Points: 383
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ac been climbing?










Contributions


All 318 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 218 | Posts | Stars 56 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)
By: ac When: Jan 7, 2006

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Comments: If anyone knows the real name of this climb, let's correct it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)
By: ac When: Jan 6, 2006

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Comments: Shouldn't this be "Loch Vale Monster'?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Flashback To Acid Beach (5.10c)
By: ac When: Dec 23, 2005

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Comments: Why do you say that this is [due] to toproping? Lowering off after leading is the likely culprit. For future equippers, steel rings are the only way to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: ac When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: I am guessing the State of CO doesn't support the highwire antics. Maybe you should ask a ranger for their position on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: ac When: Nov 22, 2005

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Comments: I was up there this morning and, to me, it looks like Power Bulge was never chopped. That is, unless someone had a stash of vintage hangers and ring bolts that they used to "restore" this route. In that same area, Street Hassle, Back in Slacks, and Drugs, however, all have brand new hardware.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: ac When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: Regarding the 3rd pitch, I'm 5' 11" and thought the initial moves were probably 9+ or 10a. Short, but not a pitch to take lightly given the ankle-busting potential.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: ac When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: FWIW, this may have a height dependent crux, as I did not think this was a hard-12c. I got this second try and have never sent Rifle 12c in fewer than 3 tries (Vasodilator took me about 10)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock
By: ac When: Nov 8, 2005

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Comments: How's that differ from say the Boulderado, Practice Rock, Brick Wall, Bowling Alley? Lunch time on weekdays offers a quick break from work and isn't too noisy.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: Or, to answer Jim Redo's (non-rhetorical) question more simply:

Yes, Jim, you are correct.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Nov 4, 2005

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Comments: No, color me a troll. What would the rating be after modernization?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (which actually ... (5.7 WI3)
By: ac When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Sounds like someone just took an Avy course.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: ac When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: George, it's not even November yet. The sooner you start TR'ing the pillars, the sooner they will fall apart, especially on "warm" days. Do the rest of the climbing community a favor and wait a few more weeks and let everything fill in a bit.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Unknown (5.6)
By: ac When: Oct 29, 2005

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Comments: I free soloed this ~5-6 yrs ago and saw chalk on it then. I agree that with a little more cleaning it would make a good beginner lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances?

If you haven't, one word: pirahnas.

It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included. But try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ac When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : A Virgin No More (5.13a)
By: ac When: Oct 20, 2005

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Comments: Mike, don't be so hard on yourself. Beware of Trolls.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Spire : Center Slab (5.8+)
By: ac When: Oct 19, 2005

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Comments: As of 10/18 the first three bolts are missing their hangers. Easy climbing past bolt 1, there is good gear up to the first piton, but it does not just fall into the placements. There was a placement near each piton, in case you don't want to trust them.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Whirlpool Rock : Flexible Flyer (5.10c)
By: ac When: Oct 11, 2005

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Comments: This route is incredible!! I totally loved it. Careful with the gear at the 2nd roof: good horizontal slot up and left to begin (yellow Alien?), and then a hard-to-see #10-11 stopper placed sideways & shallow from the stem above. Make sure of these pieces, falling onto the slab would really hurt. I don't think you can get a gold camalot in anywhere though.

Flying Dutchman (11c) is just as good, and pretty darn challenging. Cool bouldery start (jump!) out left of FF w/ interesting gear pl... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: ac When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: Andy,

Nice video, one comment, be sure to "protect the traverse" of your 2nd. I am not trying to be a buzzkill, but Julie would have hit the ledge at about 50% when the she climbs into the sun, if she had popped off. Better safe than sorry especially in that location.

Oh, just watched the end, be ready to dump your pack on a stream crossing. I usually wear the pack with only one arm.

Nice editing and sound too.

AC


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : 420s : Tsunami (V7-8)
By: ac When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: FYI: this problem starts matched on a sloping edge at about 6ft up, a few feet left of the arete. first move is a mini-bump into a very thin/sharp left hand crimp. Then, move to the good pinch on the arete. [This pinch hold flexes significantly. If climbing alone, pad for a sudden backflap if it breaks]. From the pinch do some stuff to gain the good edge at the lip of the arete.

You can do a traverse into this problem starting matched on a rail at about 4ft off the ground, 10ft left of the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: ac When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: ac When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: Nice work, PB! "Retro-trad" is a classy evolution of the game, countering the forces of gridbolting & general dumbing-down unfortunately so prevalent these days. Kudos to Bob D. and others who still believe in the value of 'mixed' bolts & gear pitches. Placing gear is fun, and high-stakes physics problems with weakening forearms are still at the core of our freaky, wonderful sport...I think.

Have a burning urge to only establish 3 per bodylength bolt ladders? Do us all a favor, and please stay ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Long Draw area : Great White Wall (5.10)
By: ac When: Sep 24, 2005

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Comments: Crux pitch is pretty hard for 10, and a little runout too.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Aretes : Russian Arete (5.9+)
By: ac When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: This route is so good! 5 steep pitches, and a bunch of beautiful 3rd-classing right on the crest. Spectacular!


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