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Member Since: Mar 13, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 10,409
Total Points: 34
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has ABG been climbing?


All 246 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 55 | Stars 120 | Ratings 53

Contributed Comments


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Henar Lite (5.10c)
By: ABG When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Not a new breed of crying... the new breed is people wanting to make routes more accessible to the masses with zero barrier to entry. Everything is not supposed to be easy and tamed down so that everyone can do it. Climbing is a process that we all go through and there should be routes that inspire people to get better. Your argument insinuates that all routes should have a middle anchor above the easier climbing; is this a new standard that we should put in place on every climb? Did y... more >>

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Yuji Feet (5.11c)
By: ABG When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Fa Boone Speed... Boone watched yuji climbing in Smith and bolted this route naming it after him.

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: ABG When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Nathan,

You have the route right. we replaced the first manky bolt and the pin with just one bolt. Either way the route required a stick clip so we figured it made more sense just to move the bolt up a bit and get rid of the junk pin. The route going out right is Aries. Its seth's route.

Location: NC : Cooks Wall : Cookbook area : Theater Of Pain (5.13b)
By: ABG When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: SOFT. Probably no move harder than v4 or v5.

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Born to Crimp (5.10-)
By: ABG When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Haven't been up there recently but are these new bolts within arm's length of Crackin' Up?

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Henar Lite (5.10c)
By: ABG When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: The middle anchors are an abomination to rock climbing and should be removed. The chains dangling all over the place were bad enough but this is a new breed of retro bolting that has been cropping up at Pilot.

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Blind Prophet (5.12b/c PG13)
By: ABG When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws.

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Enduro Man Rides Again (5.11d)
By: ABG When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Definitely another north end classic. Certainly under appreciated. While not as sustained as filet it does contain a more defined and perhaps more difficult crux and the same great gear trickery.

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Lowe Route (5.8) : ... : Photo
By: ABG When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Block the the climbers left is on was no longer there as of 7/30/13

Location: NC : Photo
By: ABG When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Looks like 2 forged friends to me.

Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Full Tilt Boogie (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: ABG When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: I thought those legs looked familiar. The legs pale in comparison to the chest though...

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Mr. Henar (5.12a/b PG13)
By: ABG When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: Should be get done more often. Clean falls on bomber bolts. Nothing else on this route needs to be changed.

Comment edited on 10/22/13:
This route has changed quite a bit in the last year. Bolts were removed but holes not filled in, one bolt was repositioned, and anchors were installed in the middle of the route. Still one of the better at Pilot but an interesting set of events.

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1)
By: ABG When: Jun 26, 2011

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Comments: Great route. Finished it in early june and it was already getting too hot to be up there. The nailing pitch will probably go clean on micros and small cams but bring a few pitons just in case. The lieback crack was amazing.

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Helix (5.12b)
By: ABG When: Jul 20, 2010

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Comments: Not chossy or dirty in the least. Great route.

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