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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: abc When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like taking draws off of projects is becoming the norm here. I had my draws taken off of Carnage this weekend.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Gilman Canyon : Gilman Canyon Crags
By: abc When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the rating of the steep route with the fixed-chain draws? and the route to the right of it?
They both look like nice routes.
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Location: WA : Spokane Area : Minnehaha : The Dihedral (5.9+) : Photo
By: abc When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my all-time favorite climbs.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Da Fly (5.13a)
By: abc When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled off the big clipping hold over the bulge. Now you have to clip off of the sloper undercling or the sideways dyno hold, and then go from there all the way up to the two finger pockets. It feels quite a bit harder to me.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Purple and Green (5.10d)
By: abc When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 3 or 4 bolt extension to this that goes at 12a and is called Blue and Black.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tired Arms Recovery Program... (5.9+)
By: abc When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice, moderate addition that is bolted well.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: abc When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, it is close to but separate.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Just Another 5.14 (aka "Cou... (5.11b)
By: abc When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moniker in the new guide is "Another 5.14". A good juggy route that has cleaned up pretty well.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: abc When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jacob, both are true. You can pick up a permit at the visitor center and the chalk at Mt. Chalet.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: abc When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 and P2 can be combined without rope drag being a concern.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : South Pipe Route (5.7+)
By: abc When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, a 70m will just get you down, but make sure to tie a note at the end of the rope since not all 70m ropes are actually 70m.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: abc When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch would be 11c if it were a sport route.
We took the wrong gully into oak creek and ended up doing six or so rappels. We obviously were not the first people to take this gully since we were rapping off of old cams for several of the raps.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Travis is Sole King (5.10a)
By: abc When: Feb 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the ground, this doesn't look like much, but it sure is some fun climbing.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Two Hearts (5.11b/c)
By: abc When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA -- Mark Van Horn and Ed Schmidt.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : The Full Male Deal (5.10c)
By: abc When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been meaning to go back and add a bolt, so if you were to blow it at the crux you wouldn't deck on the slab below. If someone gets to it before me, you are more than welcome to add one and only one bolt where it is needed.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Solar Flare (5.10+)
By: abc When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook rating of 11c/d refers to the climb to climber's right, which is certainly that grade. This climb can often be distinguished from the constant supply of leaver biners on the last bolt.
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Location: ID : Photo
By: abc When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chimney Rock is an excellent granite spire in North Idaho between Priest Lake and Sandpoint. The rock has three to four pitch routes on close to Yosemite quality splitters.
It has a bit of an approach, which keeps away a bit of the rift-raft.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hesitation Blues (5.11b)
By: abc When: May 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: abc When: May 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing the first roof is 11a, but not harder.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Left Torpedo Tube (5.10+)
By: abc When: May 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would bring two #5 and #6 Camalots.
I was able to face climb this to a great degree and avoid most of the true off-width moves.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: abc When: May 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One 60M rope will probably leave you short on the first rap from the top since we needed a little rope stretch with a 70M to make it. The rest of the raps should be fine.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : The Full Male Deal (5.10c)
By: abc When: Apr 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally called this the "Full Meal Deal" to honor Ike, but somehow the name was lost in translation when I gave Stew Green the details of it for his Rock and Ice article.
I like Stew's name for it better than the original.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: abc When: Apr 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last pitch is not worth climbing unless you really want to warm back up in the sun. Pulling the ropes from this first rappel was quite difficult. We rapped off the tree to the right of the gully with all of the slings. Maybe you could find a better option that would make pulling the ropes reasonable.
With two 70M ropes you can get down in 4.5 more raps.
1. From the cave at the top of the Red Dihedral to the ledge at the bottom of the Dihedral
2.To the big ledge finish of pitch 6
3.To... more >>
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pleasure Dome : No Where to Hide (5.11a)
By: abc When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a great route anywhere.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pleasure Dome
By: abc When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great little area to spend the day. For BV, the rock quality is quite nice, and the setting is very peaceful.
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