Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:
Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff
We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please ca... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:
Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff
We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please ca... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:
Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff
We searched for quite a while down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please c... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: aaron voreis When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Um.... Harder than Astrodog for sure. Especially considering the complex route finding.
This route is really, really good.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd just like to add that even though this route has possibly the worst approach in the canyon, it is WAY worth doing. If the approach was better, more folks did the route, and a bolt was added on the sketch-arete pitch this thing would be just as good as the scenic cruise (NOT), but with a much better position in the canyon.
FYI we brought the #5 and #6 big cams and used them a bunch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOST CLIMBING SHOE!
One small Sportiva Mythos W's. Lost 8/08. Call Robin @ 970.596.3191. Thanks
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Location: CO : Gunnison
By: aaron voreis When: Apr 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...
Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Kathy's Corner (5.10a R)
By: aaron voreis When: Sep 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do not hesitate to lead this route. It definately does not warrant an R rating as the face climbing section can be sewn up with good tcus and med-small nuts.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Second Buttress : Journey through Gwondonalan... (5.10-)
By: aaron voreis When: Sep 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both belays have bolted anchors which are used for the airy (1 60m barely makes it) rappel off of this fantastic route. The second 5.8 pitch is as good as any pitch I have ever done.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: the poison ivy on the south rim is minimal and easy to avoid. the pricker bushes however, are much more prickly than the ones on the north rim.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Movable Stoned Voyage (5.10)
By: aaron voreis When: Apr 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a must do despite a few hundred feet of junk in the middle. An excellent tour de North Chasm View... Supa!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be very aware of the avalanche conditions in Silverton and all other areas of colorado. You may not get this lucky
accident report:
http://geosurvey.state.co.us/Avalanche/Default.aspx?tabid=44
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : First Gully (WI3)
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be very aware of the avalanche conditions in Silverton and all other areas of colorado. You may not get this lucky
accident report:
http://geosurvey.state.co.us/Avalanche/Default.aspx?tabid=44
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please be VERY VERY aware of the avalanche conditions while climbing in Silverton and all of the ice areas in Colorado. Do not take the chance. An experienced climbing partner of mine did last week and paid the price with multiple broken bones and luckily not his life.
http://www.geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanche/
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: accident report:
http://geosurvey.state.co.us/Avalanche/Default.aspx?tabid=44
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Qualgeist (5.12b R)
By: aaron voreis When: Oct 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route! there is no need for a big cam. 1 #3 Camalot and 1 #4 Friend is more than plenty. cheers, aaron
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: aaron voreis When: Sep 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: all free, all good.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Sasafrass (5.10a)
By: aaron voreis When: Sep 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is much more enjoyable to finish the route to the left and belay from 3 coldshuts instead of bailing into the chimney on the right.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Corky's Rumpet (5.11-)
By: aaron voreis When: Aug 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a direct start to Corky's. Follow the bolts to the crack at solid 5.11 Bring cam's tiny to a #3 Camalot + stoppers. Cheers!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : Baby Face / Middle Wall : Question of Balance (5.11)
By: aaron voreis When: Mar 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Along with double cams from #0.1 Camalot (black Alien) to #0.4 (yellow Camalot), a red Alien and a few small to med nuts you will find a #4 Friend or #3.5 Camalot to be surprisingly useful.
cheers, aaron
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Sundial Dihedral (5.11b C1)
By: aaron voreis When: Mar 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent route indeed. Varied climbing with an excellend ratio of easier to darn tough. I recommend bringing a few extra slings and doing the first 3 pitches as one monstrous 198ft lead. Way fun..
one medium smallish hex is useful in a few spots.
A special note on the 5th pitch. Be careful and prepared to run it out a bit around the big block. This piano sized chunk is now flexing with merely a hand jam behind it.
namaste,aaron
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: aaron voreis When: Feb 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick route, Phil!
FYI...there is a now a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of this climb. One 60m will get you down. There is now only 1 fixed pin on the route. Cheers!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Ground Control to Major Tom (5.8 R)
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: The chilliumstone gully is mis-marked in the BC guide book. It is actually one gully west of the one marked.
enjoy!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Blackjack (5.10-)
By: aaron voreis When: Dec 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI the Chilliumstone Gully is mis-marked in the BC Guidebook. It is actually the next gully to the west from the one marked. Also, don't take the grade III of this route for granted. The bushwack out at the end is brutal and a bit dangerous especially if wet. I would recommend climbing the extra pitches instead of the gully.
Cams below a 0.4 (yellow Alien) are not needed. Bring a few small/medium hexes and and extra, hand-sized piece.
enjoy!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: aaron voreis When: Nov 17, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo! FYI A bomber number 3 or 4 HB offset nut can be placed before leaving the ground on the first pitch. I thought the first pitch was more difficult than the Tagger 10c pitch.
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