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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : The Schoolyard : Improbable Prose (5.9) : Photo
By: Aaron S When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or awesomeness.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : The Schoolyard : Honcho Imposter (5.10)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like an awesome route. Can't wait to check it out.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Aaron S When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Late exit info printed on the topo is clutch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Aaron S When: Aug 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upper pitches area ton of fun. Rock quality is better than I expected. Handren guide gives good directions. I would recommend staying roped up for the final 250' of "4th class".
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Bird Crack (5.10d)
By: Aaron S When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I backed off this a while back because the fall looked kind of bad and the climbing not really worth it. Nice to see others agree with that sentiment.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Aaron S When: May 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can’t believe this climb doesn’t get more traffic given the short approach and rad climbing. Here are some comments after climbing this the other day.
--- The Handren guide lists the 4th pitch as 50’ 5.6. It’s more like 300’ of third class. When you get to the ledge atop p.3 un-rope and scramble up a gully to the right. This will lead you to a wide open brushy area where you can walk to the base of the splitter.
At the bottom of a small chimney you stem across for the scramble there is c... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c)
By: Aaron S When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack "
Wha???
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Aaron S When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description here is spot on. Despite reading it here I neglected to put a long runner on the last bolt of the pitch 4 traverse and paid the price. A shoulder length sling would have made a world of difference. I highly recommend running the last two pitches together as there is really no reason to stop on the mediocre ledge.
The descent sucks balls. Despite paying pretty close attention we missed the fork coming down the canyon and had to back track up to get over to the base. Lots of ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Geometric Progression (5.12b)
By: Aaron S When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a note written in chalk at the base of this route about one of the bolts being bad. I was told that the bolt walked halfway out just from rope movement. Hopefully someone with a bolt kit wants to do a little community service.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stone Wall : Stonehenge (5.11b)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting the second bolt requires either a difficult awkward clip from below or you can do a few more moves, into ground fall range, to a better stance. Up higher there is a bolt right over a decent sized edge that juts out. The fall above there wouldn't be far but your ankle might not appreciate meeting that ledge.
This is my least favorite route at Stone Wall.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Water Dog (5.11c)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 60' of this route climbs a fun 5.10 crack up to a mess of slings. The final 30 or so feet go up a steep chossy face that doesn't look the least bit appealing. This climb is probably done far too little due to the misleading rating and the fact that it climbs far better than it looks.
If you want another moderate crack after Mister Masters jump on this. The gear is pretty good; SR to a #2 camalot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not ... (5.8 PG13)
By: Aaron S When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some donk added a retro bolt about 12" below the first lead bolt. Sure was nice of someone to protect that gripping 5.2 move at the start.
Note: If you are going to place an insultingly useless retro lead bolt please have the courtesy to at least clean off the rock dust after drilling. Neglecting this step not only creates an unsightly stain on the rock but also draws attention to the shit job you just completed. Thanks.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: Aaron S When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every pitch is classic on this one!
And if you are as lazy as I am and hate carrying a second rope, the route can easily be rapped with a single 70m.
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Location: Josh Audrey : jyeah! : Photo
By: Aaron S When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boys club?
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Aaron S When: May 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding big gear on the headwall, I would reccomend a single set of camalots. They aren't necesary but you can get a few bomber placements which I was plenty happy to have.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Aaron S When: May 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this with a short first pitch with a nice ledge to the left and then a longer pitch to the top. I did not see any spot that would be remotely comfortable to belay from after that early ledge.
The first pitch felt like standard 10a to me but pulling out of the roof on the second was pretty tough.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sunday Afternoon Boulder : Victim of AIDS (5.12a C2)
By: Aaron S When: May 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: An interesting story on this one: when I was working this on tr a couple years ago a cool local came by and, while we were chatting, he told me about the origin of this climb. I’m forgetting his name but he’s the same guy that guy his leg stuck in Mother Superior for a really long time. So anyway, this used to be just a thin practice nailing route. As the crack got worn open a bit, some of the guys realized this might actually go free. At this point the route saw an up-tick in nailing practice. ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Sheep Trail (5.10 R)
By: Aaron S When: May 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line is not at all obvious from the ground but the climbing is awesome once you get on it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Out of Control area : Remote Control (5.9)
By: Aaron S When: May 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first half is a super classic hand crack/corner. The second half is, uh, not so classic.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Chingando (5.10a)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit". Yea... pay attention to that part.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Van Allen Belt (5.7 R)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I mean, it's no Cold September Corner, but the pro is pretty thin up top.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Skull Queen (5.8 C2)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The supertopo recommends bringing a large cam for the ow and last pitches but I would leave it at home. The ow pitch goes from a #4 camalot size to a full squeeze (too big for a cam) within a couple feet making it worthless. My buddy used it at the start of the last pitch but it didn’t look necessary. The good news is that the ow pitch is pretty easy climbing and is probably just as easy in boots as climbing shoes.
I think this route is underrated in terms of quality and just fun climb... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Whipper (5.10)
By: Aaron S When: Apr 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was surprisingly moderate given how steep and ominous looking it is. The moves through the roof are fun and unique. There are enough good face holds that it can still b climbed if you aren’t solid on hand jamming, although it helps.
One thing to watch out for, as I lowered from the top the rope pressed against a couple cams in the roof and shoved them pretty far back in there. I was able to retrieve them with a couple minutes of work but it’s something to watch out for. If my blu... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: Aaron S When: Dec 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heh, it's been a while since I climbed this one but I had almost the exact same experience as Andy on the last pitch. Bad rope drag, looking up at a featureless slab facing a bad fall, and wondering if I was on route. I ended up deciding to back track a bit and head around to the left, which ended up being casual.
First couple pitches are stellar.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Out of Control area : Out of Control (5.10c)
By: Aaron S When: Dec 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fwiw, the route is not 160'. I was able to rap it with a 70m with room to spare.
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