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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Aerostar (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the Tarmac Wall, Just right of Flight Simulator.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (09) Bedeviled (5.11c/d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this climb soon after it was put up last year(I am guessing, since there was still some drill dust below the bolts) and the route follows a really nice line (good vision) but it still needed some cleaning. I imagine you guys have been back to clean it up some? I would like to get on it again.
thanks for contributing.
-aaron
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Morongo Man Cliffs : Morongo Man (5.11c) : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, that's me! Who took this photo? Do you have more? Thanks for posting.
-a
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Native Rituals (5.13b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: we re-equipped this anchor with some fancy steel hardware. Should last forever.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Clovis Hunter (5.12a/b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Adding to the refreshing excitement of this climb, the dihedral section directly following the first bulgy crux was cleaned (read...removed) on 4-5-09 to reveal a stunning section of slightly trickier face climbing and stemming. This makes the crux a bit more sustained and technical as well as cleaner and more aesthetic than it was (and it was pretty stellar to begin with) but no more than a letter grade difficult. Should justify the 12b rating and a proposed 5th star of quality.
Enjoy.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Left End : (02) Airway Arete (5.11c/d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of the more crimpier routes at Diablo, but excellent position and fun climbing.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : (18) Airbus (5.11 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moving from the nice bolted belay, one steps down a touch to reach the crack so a fall wouldn't be too bad as long as your #6 went in soon. I alos bring an old #5 and ditch it in the back to keep the rope at bay early on.
definitely harder for the barrel chested folk, I would agree.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : (14) You're Scaring the Hor... (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would Ditto Lee's comments, the bolting is just fine and the higher belay is cush.
good route
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slab on first pitch was hard. Did steep chickenhead variation that heads right halfway up pitch 5. There were 3 bolts, no harder than 5.10. Belay at top from large sharp chickenheads. Fun.
Im glad to hear that those buttonheads are solid out here. There are a few places where you depend on them for bodily safety.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Crisis Center : Sheep Thrills (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty serious line. Moves after second bolt are hard and you could take a monster whip.
Quality route!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the first belay anchors, I climbed up to the dihedral (no pro here, be careful!) and then got some good gear in the crack. AFter looking up the wavy corner, I decided the bolted face over the bulge to the right looked more interesting so chose that instead(this bolt line is shown heading off of the start of pitch 2 on the toofast topo). Easy 5.10 to the ledge where the belay that most people skip for "Ides" is to the left. Traversed right to belay bolts under trees and headed up some unk... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Intelligent Design (5.11c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch one is called "Hominid" and does not technically share anchors with "Intelligent design". An alternate approach to the bleay for "ID" is to climb the burly "Natural Selection". The "ID" pitch is the second pitch that ascends the prominent pillar feature.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (02.2) Suntoucher (5.11b/c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that maybe the third pitch could use some redirecting out of the bad rock. Looks like great climbing to the right!
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (06.1) Hell Boy (5.8+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason-
Thanks for contributing to the great climbing on the Winter Wall. I am psyched to see other people motivated to expand our local climbing.
This route has realy good potential to be a classic but it still needs a lot of cleaning. I would be happy to go out with you any time to work on it. There are even a few things that may have come loose on Naked Lunch that I could tend to. I just dont want anyone to get hurt. I think the potential for accidents on these lines especially -being a... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (L. Side) : Ojo (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the boulder problems, though, are each 3 to 4 bolts long, so there is some pretty good quality sustained climbing to be had. The route is 90 to 95 feet, so dont try it with a 50m rope.
We put this route up in '04 too.
-Aaron Miller
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (L. Side) : Unknown (Crack right of Ojo... (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dont know if I had the FA or not, but I assume from the amount of dirt and junk I pulled out of the wide roof section that I probably did. We put up thte anchors in '04. Yarded on that huge flake with a bar so I think it will be there for a while, though it is spooky!!
-Aaron
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Clovis Hunter (5.12a/b)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt has been temporarily replaced and tested to be sound. We are currently researching why the bolt is missing and how. We may choose to move the bolt again to a less vertical (roof type) position as the hard Diablo basalt does not favor these vertical bolt placements due to the lack of rock deformation from the mechanical expansion pressures of the bolt itself.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : Ghost Ranch : Mount Ethan Putterman : Regular Route (5.9 A3 R)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that caprock is supposed to be a gypsum layer, Todilto formation.
No wonder it is so soft, eh?
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (09) Blind Faith (5.11a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again, I am sorry for moving bolts on a sport route but with the high frequency of rockfall on this wall its better to be safe than sorry.
Fun route, by the way (to whomever put this line up)
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (02) Chopping Block (5.11a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott-
I apologize for altering the route without contacting you, I dont think we've ever met and I sure didn't know who had FA'd this line. I am also sorry that you were affected by the fire and I understand that other things are more important than finishing a route.
I would be more than pleased to have you restore this climb to its original condition but please also consider that it is now climbed frequently by many where it was pretty much covered in dust and cobwebs prior to its retro/co... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Native Rituals (5.13b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably a letter grade or two easier than Mastodont. Really fun movement and good climbing.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (04) Good (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: this climb shares nothing with "Evil", has own anchor summer '07
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (03) Evil (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: - Its the fourth route from the entrance
- I put last bolt and separate anchors in Summer '07
- Dont blow fourth clip or will hit the ledge, could use retro bolting here. Maybe get to in summer '08.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : (15) Drunk Rednecks with Go... (5.8+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Use this route to access Airbus by traversing left and up 20 feet from the anchors.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : (16.1) A Day with Dr. Diabl... (5.10c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to right of route #15 on photo.
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