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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : 2 Minutes? That's IT? (5.6)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool Tony, good to know - I figured if it had been done & recorded by someone it would have been by you guys with F&R.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : 2 Minutes? That's IT? (5.6)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given the prominence of this crack, especially when viewing Green Mountain Pinnacle from the south, I feel like there's a good chance this line has been done before; then again, given its apparent OW nature, absence from both the old Rossiter and new Haas guides to the Flatirons, and crumbly-ness, I was inclined to think/hope I might be treading on new ground when I climbed this route today (and ogled it all summer).
If anyone knows a story behind this line that I'm not aware of, I'll... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent line. If you're a budding trad climber with a lot of sport climbing experience (up to the mid/hard 11s) and know how to use a cam you'll rock this thing - I'm currently 1 for 2 on 5.10c trad climbs and this was my first 11; it went surprisingly well, one fall about halfway up, well before the cruxes, when I wasn't paying enough attention to where my rope was at (doh!). That said, bring your footwork game and you'll find plenty of rests and good stances to plug in gear. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love (5.10b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Added some tat to the mess this afternoon. Currently the anchor (what's good) is a purple sling on a chockstone linked to the bolt with a blue sling. There are a couple biners up there that look like toys, so I put a quicklink on the bolt and rapped off that (backed up with the slung chockstone).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pin protecting the opening moves is pretty sketchy - looks to be an old knifeblade - I was able to move it around a bit this afternoon. It provides a little bit of confidence for the somewhat off-balance moves up to the ledge, but not a lot; best not blow the opening moves on this climb.
Also, the pocket near the 2nd bolt was wasp-free, today.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Deserted Cities of the Hear... (5.9)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 25-Sept-2009, the anchor is only a single bolt - no nut or sling, though I could see where a very small nut could back up the bolt. This route goes pretty easily without supplemental pro for the bolts, especially as much of the face climbing is very easy, and I didn't notice any places where the route would protect without a lot of fiddling around with pro.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : Batman (5.10b)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Dougald - this runout after the last bolt is pretty significant, and since it's a traverse, could result in a really unpleasant scrape across the face. Additionally, clipping the first bolt requires some solid 9/9+ moves that, if you were to blow them, would result in a really unpleasant fall.
Today, 25-Sept-09, my partner and I cut some bogus tat off the anchors and left a couple of carabiners that can be used to belay-from-above and then rappel - I wouldn't want to belay a TR from t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Lucky Charms aka Rip This J... (5.10d)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun climb. Well worth getting on if you're a confident face climber at the grade. I felt the crux moves were pretty thin, and, in my case, protected only by a #3 BD brass that I got about 12 or 13 feet above at one point. Very exciting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Leprechaun Promenade (5.10b R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has a second pitch that ascends the roof and face above the initial top-out ledge. clamber up beneath a big flake and roof, place some gear, and yard over - 9+/10a, very fun and very well-protected. The face above has a good bit of lichen, but the climbing is very easy, probably 5.8 on chicken heads. There is currently a three-sling anchor near the top of this second pitch that allows for a ~33m rappel back to the base of the wall. If you're spending some time on this little wall,... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : A Shadow Sickness (5.10)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up at the East Ridge today, my partner and I were unable to find anything resembling a rap anchor up at the top of A Shadow Sickness. We slung a "horn" with some 1" webbing (one rap ring) and rappelled off of that. A belay can be built off of cams and slung horns on the flakes at the top of the climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fluorescent Gray (5.11c R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Haas Flatirons guide notes that the name comes from one of the first ascensionists, Bret Ruckman, who was colorblind, describing the bright lichen on/around the route.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Malander's Passage (5.8+ R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very worthwhile line. My partner and I got on it looking for Stettner's having realized we went too far up the 4th class approach ledges, and really enjoyed the climbing. We climbed the first pitch from the upper, non-grassy ledge 200 feet up to a belay notch at the base of a left-facing corner - a great, long, sustained pitch of enjoyable finger crack and face climbing that, for the most part, protected very well. Pitch two, then, ascended 50 feet of splitter handcrack that, though... more >>
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Location: Derek Lawrence : "Big Bro's Watching" (AKA: ... : Photo
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's definitely a james-dean-smoking pic turned climbing photo.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Dusty in that I felt this route had multiple moves of 5.10a. the first pitch, particularly above the bolts, gets very strenuous and insecure, and there are points right below and just above Fang Ledge that are technical and challenging - the sort of moves that feel easier when seconding since you have the security of a toprope to let you commit to awkward/gymnastic body position.
This route could easily go in 3 pitches with a 70m rope. P1 to the belay shared with Osiris, a 70m... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Fantastic Voyage (5.11d)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whatever route this is, the second pitch definitely improves the overall route quality and, I think, is fairly graded at 11d. The crux is sort of short, but is pretty powerful and rather than doing the moves to be rewarded by a big rest, you have to climb an 11ish sequence to a nice hold, and then some 10 moves to a legit rest.
This route is more like 165 feet long. P1: ~90 ft, P2: 72ft.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Unknown West Crack (5.9)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route on 4-Sept, and it was dirty and not particularly enjoyable. By the time I made it to the top of the actual crack, I had absolutely no interest in traversing under the big roof, though the traverse did look pretty reasonable after a couple sorta-thin opening moves. I belayed my partner up to the alcove at the top of the crack off of medium cams, and we scrambled to the top of the wall. Walking climber's left will get you to the anchors of Fantastic Voyage. Climbing the face to... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : Walpurgisnacht (5.11-)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work on the bolt replacement - when I was on this route early in the summer of 2008 the bolts were definitely old. Long long runout to the top - not knowing anything about the wall I traversed right to anchors over Fall of the Wall.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : S-Crack (5.10a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.
Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge b... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : West Crack (V-easy)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This isn't really a 'corner crack' - it's actually a hand-sized crack that runs up the far right side of the west face of Nemesis Tower.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Shoyu State (5.11a)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A quick correction: climbed this route yesterday and it's got 6 bolts. I placed a couple medium -sized cams (#2 and #1.75 Friend ~ #1 & #0.75 Camalot) before the 1st bolt and a big-ish nut (#11 BD) up high and it was really sewn up. without the gear you'd be looking at a 35 feet of 5.7 to the first bolt and about 25 feet of 5.6 from the last bolt to the anchors.
Bring alpine-style draws for the 1st and 2nd bolts to reduce rope drag, and be sure to climb straight ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: DESCENT BETA: Alexander's Chimney can be rappeled with a single 70m rope in 4 raps. I posted this on the page for Kor's Door, but am duplicating it here in the event someone's looking for recent rap beta.
Rap 1: From just below Broadway (2 pin, 1 nut anchor with slings) rappel 100ish feet to a slung horn/nut anchor.
Rap 2: Another 100+ feet from the large horn down the face, past a station, and behind a large, slung chockstone to a ledge.
Rap 3: From a small slung chockstone/nut anchor at th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : East Face/Challenger (5.4 R)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun variation to the start of the route follows a wide-ish groove with a couple trees in it on the left side of the east face to start, and at about 90' makes a delicate move left on a couple pebbles to a great splitter finger crack that opens to hands and lasts about 25 feet. The crack is easy, maybe 5.4, but the couple moves into it are very thin, 5.7/5.8-? At the end of the crack, follow a rising horizontal break to the right side of the face and climb up the ridge as for the normal route... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Faith and Resurrection (5.10a PG13)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun line and makes for an excellent lesson in committing to your handjams. It would, depending on your take on the difficulty, make a great first 5.10 lead.
Belaying in the crack above the lip of the wall requires several (or two, again, depending on how you roll) pieces in the #3/#4 (new) Camalot range. I used a #3.5 and #4 Friend, along with a creatively placed big-ass stopper.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently there are three slings with rap rings around a block on the summit.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : Electric Fountain Crack (5.8)
By: Aaron Martinuzzi When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right, is that what Hank's actually referring to, though?
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