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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Rabbit Ear
By: Aaron Hobson When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: On my most recent ascent, I retrieved the Summit Register and have copied it into an electronic record located at my BLOG . I placed a new blank note-book at the Summit Cairn an I intend to print out the compiled history and place a copy back on the summit. I'd like to archive the originals in Las Cruces somewhere, possibly NMSU. If anyone knows about where to archive these locally, let me know.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Rabbit Ear : Boyer's Chute (5.4)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this route immensely. The narrow confines made it feel like ascending up a canyon, and then you pop out on top of a small summit, superb.
Many rappel stations are found along the route at various locations. Above the crux 5.4 chimney is a two-bolt rappel in bad shape. Both bolts are old 1/4", and one of them is broken off. Fortunately a boulder just above them can be slung for that rappel. The lower 5th class crux (described as the third pitch above) is not well protected on the right... more >>
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Grey Wall? : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No dis-resepect was meant by us, and if you want to chop the bolt/anchors go right ahead. We were simply tempted onto the 2nd pitch by the lone bolt placed past the anchors, and then as we got further up the face decided that a bolt was needed rather than run-out on potentially loose rock.
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Grey Wall? : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob Almond and I finished to the top with Trad. Gear was adequate but tends to meander left into natural weaknesses on the face. We placed one bolt about 30 ft from the top in a chossy area (on lead no less), and a two-bolt rappel station at the top. Unfortunately, a single rope rappel from the top doesn't reach the anchors at the top of the first pitch. Do you know if the FAs intentions were to bolt the rest of the way to the top? A mid-way rappel station/anchor is something we think is needed.
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C
By: Aaron Hobson When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's really good to see this area being posted. I've made a few trips up here this year and plan on many more as it's a reasonable drive from Las Cruces. I managed to get my little 2wd Geo tracker up to the parking area, although it was a bit iffy. This will be a good winter climbing area.
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Location: NM : Percha Creek, Hillsboro : Nutcracker (5.10a PG13)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tall thin tree is no longer there, making the identification of this route less straightforward. It's still pretty easy to recognize, with the thin crack start that has two finger pods at about 20ft.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Rough and Ready Hills
By: Aaron Hobson When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After living in Las Cruces for 3 years, I finally broke down and posted some route information for our local sport crag. I know this crag gets frequented by the NMSU crowd and I think I was waiting for someone else to introduce the area to MP.com. New routes are being added out here which aren't in any of the published guides and it would be great to get some of that information on this site.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Sunny Side : Sun-Rot Dihedral (5.10)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A second bolt was added at the top of the first pitch next to the old 1/4", making it a descent rappel point.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Sunny Side : The Bulge (5.7)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried pulling out the first rusty bolt but didn't get it all the way. I put in a new bolt next to it, so hopefully no-one clips the old one which is sticking out 3/4" and loose. I'll finish it off soon...
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : East Slabs : The Great Bowl/Ingraham Dih... (5.8 R)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the top of Ingraham dihedral has two bolts. If you exit from the belay to the right, another 1/4" bolt is about 20 ft off the belay.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Shady Side : Nothing to prove (5.5)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled out two hanger-less 1/4" bolts last weekend. One on each side of the summit ridge. It didn't make sense to me to put new bolts on both sides, so instead I put one new bolt at a higher placement which can be used for either side. This along with the piton should provide an adequate top-rope anchor. For descending, you may still be required to leave a sling/biner but the walk-off descent is pretty straightforward.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Shady Side : Swainson (5.9+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both of the 1/4" bolts were replaced last weekend.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Shady Side : Peregrine (5.11)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is in a small alcove. The sloping ramp just to the left of the route is an easy climb (~5.2) and gains a small ledge which is used by the OMTRS as one end of a Tyrolean.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Shady Side : Swainson (5.9+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Almost three years after I first climbed this route, I was back there today with the OMTRS. A couple people jumped on our top-rope and the consensus was that the crux is the lower section. There are some balancy moves on top of the first bulge/hold which spit most people off. Also of note was that we were able to back-up the bolts using pink and brown tricams about 20 ft further back from the bolts.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca : The Garden : ... : 5. Peeping Tom (V5+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started this at a right-hand sloper and a low left hand in a corner hold. Two quick bumps of the right hand and I was on easier holds and cruised the rest of the problem. It definitely didn't feel V5 (I don't know if I've climbed that grade) so I'm guessing that this isn't where one starts? However, based upon the description, it made sense to start here.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca : The Garden : ... : 1. Spy vs. Spy (V3)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have a hard time using the holds around to the left, especially the narrow rail. I ended up doing an awkward mantle on the starting holds but then couldn't move from it. A fun problem and definitely the most interesting on this boulder.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca : East End : ... : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It took me a good while to get to these holds, which were the last chalked up holds on the route this day. Above are tiny crimpers for 2-3 more moves before the top. I was happy just to work out the bottom section.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca : East End : ... : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moves above this one looked easier, but not on great holds. Theres a good size rock in the landing zone which scared me off giving the top a try.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed the "real" last pitch. There are three old pitons in the grass filled crack leading up to the Sotol Yucca. A 1/4" bolt is hidden behind the Yucca. Climbing past the yucca without grabbing onto it looks very difficult. I recommend long pants and shirt, and simply heaving yourself up onto the plant. Probably not too good for the plant, but unless this area becomes high-traffic, I don't imagine much damage occurring. The finger crack above the Sotol is quality.
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Location: cuclimbing : climbing : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mind if I move (or you can, my admin tool doesn't seem to want to let me move a photo from your personal album) this photo to the Southern Comfort Section?
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Southern Comfort Wall
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought I had Charlie's latest topo for Southern Comfort but apparently I don't. Elervum's Cove is the west of the main wall, where the shady oak trees are right? I've jumped on one of those routes, the one in the center of the wall that starts slabby on thin gear, and passes two bolts at a crux that is very slabby. After the crux I stayed left to reach the anchors (bolts and chains, about 30 m to ground) instead of heading right where I recall two bolts climbed over more slabbiness.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Southern Comfort Wall : DWI (5.10-)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt this route to be a fairly bold lead past the last bolt. This may be because I trended right after that bolt and didn't find any pro (well, a marginal nut in a tiny slot) for 20 ft of face climbing. Next time I'll head more to the left, although I don't recall seeing anything more promising over there.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Peak that strikes me most as being Yosemite-like is Sugarloaf. Not being a Yosemite climber, I'm probably not the best to judge, but it doesn't seem to me that Sugarloaf is much like Half-Dome.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: Aaron Hobson When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those are definitely the Rabbit Ears. Let us know how that arete is.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Little Squaretop : South Ridge (Little Squaret... (5.8)
By: Aaron Hobson When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd be curious if any Organ Mountain climbers know if this route has been climbed before. Unlike many of the routes I have done in the Organs, there was no evidence of climbers having been up this ridge. But it is an obvious line and it's hard to imagine that it hadn't been explored by someone. Ingraham's guide simply states "a number of routes up the South Eastern end of the massif can be found" but it appears to me that he is talking about 4rth class routes to the summit.
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