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Crushing the Bulge


Member Since: Nov 30, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Aaron Shields


Point Rank: # 999
Total Points: 606
Last Year: 182
Last 30 Days: 75
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aaron Shields been climbing?










Contributions


All 271 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 89 | Page Improvments | Comments 26 | Posts 1 | Stars 104 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Cove : Repeat Offender (5.11a)
By: Aaron Shields When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: Agree with the above. The traverse at the end doesn't add much and makes cleaning pretty tough. Great protection throughout, though and a really fun route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Aaron Shields When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Ah, point taken. Please enjoy this updated, less cloudy pic with rocks in it. My "bro's best profile" will live on in my other photos :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+) : Photo
By: Aaron Shields When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: The clouds were so dense at the top of p1 that visibility was less than 10ft, and muffled most of the sound. It effectively isolated us within that visibility envelope - it was like the rest of the world didn't exist. Very cool, and definitely eerie.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Remote Control (5.11a)
By: Aaron Shields When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Classic AF climbing - big reaches to hero jugs in fun, pocketed limestone. My favorite move was a bomber two-handed pinch after following the lower flake. Pretty soft for the grade, it felt like a hard 5.10 to me.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Physical Therapy (5.9)
By: Aaron Shields When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Quite the variety of moves for a 5.9. Great warm-up route. Staying left toward the arete is a better line IMO.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Riptide (5.11a)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Fun, sustained climbing that meanders pleasantly between the bolts. Steeper than it looks--milk the rests!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Treehugger (5.10b)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: As long as your footwork is good at the crux, the route is a solid 5.10b. Milk the rest just over the third bolt and you're golden.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Stoic Calculus (5.8)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: A glue-in ring has been recently added, so it's not 20 feet to the first bolt anymore. Thank you to whomever took the time and expense to put it in.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Beer Can Alley : O'Doul's (5.10c/d)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: This rock is a cool departure from the regular pocketed AF limestone. The rating for this route depends on which direction you go at the roof. I took it straight on, following the bolt line. It was an exciting, reachy pull on 3/4 pad crimps and itty bitty micro-edges, and it was a solid 5.10d for those few moves. You can also go right on bigger holds and stay within reach of the bolts, making it about 5.10b.

The single bolt above the chains appears to be aesthetic, and doesn't lead to anyth... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Unknown 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, but agree that it's not tougher than 5.10c/d. Psychologically, this climb is tough because of the loose stuff. Most of the upper roof is due to come down any time now; it felt pretty loose, and I wasn't thrilled about using it. If you climb this, put your belayer at the bottom, under the 5.4 scramble so they have more protection and some time to react. When it does come off, maybe it will be 5.11a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: A hold broke off this morning that was the size of a dinner plate just below the bulge. Didn't seem to change the climb that much, though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Bulge (5.11b)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: There's no reason to try and stem off the wall if you use the gritty slopers and holds on the blunt arete (left) and the horns on the sharper arete (right). That makes for a great, powerful sequence and is way easier than hanging off the right side.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Steel Monkey (5.10d)
By: Aaron Shields When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Deadpointed the reachy move under #3, then dynoed up the face. Highly recommended. Agree that the chains are wearing pretty thin - I had one quick link, so I added it. Will bring up another Friday if nobody beats me to it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Stoic Calculus (5.8)
By: Aaron Shields When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Perin - it's a high first bolt, but not difficult climbing. Not everything should be bolted like a gym route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Emotional Geometry (5.10a)
By: Aaron Shields When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: May 2013 - pretty clean now, though the crack is still painfully rough. Good thing it's a short crack! Awesome natural continuation of stoic calculus, and not bad if your crack technique is good


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress : Lord of the Slings (5.9+)
By: Aaron Shields When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: This was my first multi pitch climb (I think). Loved it! Interestingly enough, the crazy runout between bolts on p1 didn't make me as nervous as the little scree spine you cross to get to p2. We split P1 and belayed from the ledge, which made the rope drag more manageable.
I would NOT recommend doing the last two together without slings: I felt like I was pulling up my second, the rope drag was so bad. Great climbing, though. When we were getting ready to rap down, the flake I was standing ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Drunken Midget (5.10a)
By: Aaron Shields When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Technical, balancey start, then a big move and a satisfying roof pull. Would have loved to mantle at the chains and keep going. Easy .10a once you've figured out the opening sequence, .8-ish after the roof. Still quite a bit of snow here as of 3/27.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street : Loose Shingles (5.10b)
By: Aaron Shields When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Bolts are well-placed. The crux is pulling the first roof on crimpy, sharp little devil grips that like to camouflage themselves. Recommend warming up on 8 Ball Corner Pocket and having a good look at the roof on the way down. The second roof is pretty reachy for my shorter friends, but the holds are excellent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : The Pillar Of Cache : Good Freakin' Gads (5.10a)
By: Aaron Shields When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Found some nice jugs perfect for pulling the roof. get your balance, reach for them, and crank away. Needs a little housekeeping, but the rock is grippy and fantastic.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : Impossible Dream (5.10d)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: This route made me wish my fingers were smaller. The thin stuff at the crux bled me while I tried to get more finger in the crack. You just have to deal with the tiny holds, trust your pro (or TR) and make the move. I would call this a 5.9+ climb with a 5.11 crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : George : Curious George (5.8)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: Flashed this thrilling route toward the end of our day. I'm blaming the shaking on fatigue, but it might have had something to do with the incredible exposure of this long climb. Agree with Perin, it's a 90-footer. We used the chains about a third of the way up to teach some multi-pitch techniques.


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : Town Area : Butcher Knife : Unknown (5.7 PG13)
By: Aaron Shields When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: A good beginner's toprope situated east of the more prominent Butcher Knife and Greyface routes. Protection is two bolts on top. Rated PG-13, because the easiest way to set up the toprope is to climb up the dihedral to the right (see beta photo), which is easy but still unprotected. There may be a trail up either side, but we were short on daylight, so I climbed the dihedral to set up the TR for some beginner climbers.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Apostasy (5.10a)
By: Aaron Shields When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: The crux on this one was a thinker for me. After I finally made it, I was pretty pumped and very grateful for the huecos above. There's also a fun little horizontal fist jam near the top. Great route! For extra fun, try traversing right and downclimbing Sands of Blood instead of lowering.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sands of Blood (5.9)
By: Aaron Shields When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Totally agree with the sun comment. We were there in late morning, and it about blinded the belayer. That aside, this was a great warm-up climb, with more huecos than I knew what to do with. Would also be a good first lead due to the easy climbing and well-placed bolting.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9-)
By: Aaron Shields When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Too bad this is such a short route, it's a pretty fun one. An easy start to a sandy mantle, then a couple balancy moves and an awkward reach to the final jug(s). We moved into the crack when it started warming up, and this was a fun way to spend another 30 minutes at Chuckawalla.


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