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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Aaron Miller
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Point Rank: # 531
Total Points: 1,272
Last Year: 339
Last 30 Days: 13
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 541 | Routes 80 | Areas 11 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 137 | Posts 2 | Stars 239 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Paradise City (5.10)
By: Aaron Miller When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This is a super fun route. It has great holds on good rock, but there is still some loose stuff to either side of the bolt line. If you travel off the line, just pay attention!

It will clean up with traffic and I expect, considering its grade and the fun style, this route will get lots of traffic.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: I think it would greatly help to find any of the crags in the Sandias if the aspect were listed. This one in particular. The face is due west, morning shade, afternoon sun.

Also, after leaving the trail junction saddle heading south towards the tramway summit, you are directly over Echo Cyn, of which the YFT is a west facing wall on a protruding ridge.

Great rock!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: While installing Under Powered I had the opportunity to finally clean off some of the bad rock on KSR. I dont htink the grade has changed at all, some former holds are gone, some new ones arrived. Hoping its a little safer now, not claiming its totally clean, just better. I do feel that its way more enjoyable without worrying if your hold will break your tooth.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : 3. Renaissance Sector : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: July, 2015 we cleaned most of the bad rock off this route. Also added a starting bolt so that you are not forced to place a cam in a slightly flexing finger crack. It cleaned up really nicely and climbs well.

This route is also the start to "Ring Around The Rosie".


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : 1. Renegade Sector : Standing on the Edge of Ext... (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Lower bolt added 05/2015. Also moved second bolt (formerly 1st bolt) so that you no longer need to climb off-route to clip it.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : 1. Renegade Sector : Crispy the Renegade (5.12a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: 1st bolt added 06/22/2015. No longer need stick clip.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : 3. Renaissance Sector : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Cleaned the living-crap out of this route. There were some glued-on holds and lots of loose stuff--all gone. The route climbs differently now and I dont think the grade changed too much. Its actually a very nice line, we fixed the first 3 crux clips with steel chain/biners and it flows well. You will want to start on Lower Rosie to link into the 5.13 climbing, keeps the rope nice and clean.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Kev Crack (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Kevin Obrien made the first attempt at this fun corner, thinking it was an established warmup route. Halfway up, the crusty and loose blocks (now mostly cleaned out) convinced him of otherwise, and he lowered off a cam that sat there the next two years. We finally went and gave this line the love it deserved. Turned out to be a fun route, will clean up nicely with a little traffic. Great addition to an already nice warmup sector on the Upper Wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this super fun route in March. The final anchor, atop pitch 6, is not safe. There is really only one bolt holding it together, and that bolt is not exactly new either.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Do these numbers refer to something? For instance, I got on route #8 in the topo, I thought was an 11+, and when I got to the roof block, there seemed to be 3 options but it wasn't obvious which was which. Heading right had lots of rope drag around a sharp corner and hollow blocks to pull on, up looked loose and scary, and left required me to downclimb, back-clean a draw, and then traverse left.
I guess I just not sure what route I actually got on.

I see that this photo was posted in ... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Buck Up (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 climbs better than it looks. Pitch 2 is amazing. Bring a set of C3s or similar, nuts work too. #3 cam not necessary, but can be used. The rock quality on this route is spectacular.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Dread Pirate Roberts (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Be ready to drop a 000-C3 cam or a #4 stopper into the crack just above the crux ledge. Alternately, you can pop a #1 C3 cam into the tips crack way out right. Either way, you will want some gear soon after mantling up out of the hard corner start.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: The St Peter's Dome Road is currently closed for the Winter, to reopen in March. This is because the USFS does not want folks driving on roads while snowpacked and potentially muddy which would cause damage. The normal closures for these roads are until April, however, the SPD road opens in March due to hunting season permits. So, this leads one to question whether they could open the road even earlier for other user groups, especially on years such as this where there is little to no snow on th... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The St Peter's Dome Road is currently closed for the Winter, to reopen in March. This is because the USFS does not want folks driving on roads while snowpacked and potentially muddy which would cause damage. The normal closures for these roads are until April, however, the SPD road opens in March due to hunting season permits. So, this leads one to question whether they could open the road even earlier for other user groups, especially on years such as this where there is little to no snow on... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Seventh Sun (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Big thanks to Logan Peterson for a great belay on my FA of this route. Trust me, this is an amazing line.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower Area : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Jason. Will finally went and got it. Sorry folks, the booty has been retrieved.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower Area : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: If someone retrieves my green camalot, I would be grateful. Tried to climb this in September with Will Canning and he had to bail after 30 feet due to some wasps threatening to kick his ass. So my green cam is still up there.

let me know

thanks


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : 1. Renegade Sector : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Its only 11c past the first set of anchors, stay left in the crack (gear needed), can be done with a single 70m in one pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Handyman (5.10)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Where else can you climb 80 feet of perfect hands through slightly overhanging splitter crack!!!

I would recommend traversing left all the way to the hands corner to start the climb. Bring some long draws to help you get there. The earlier finger start up the groove has some questionable rock. The route is awesome, worth the weird start!!!!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Frogger (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Bring a fist-full of purple camalots. Minimum of 3.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Good map Josh.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Boring Crack : Boring Crack (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic pitch. Not to be missed if climbing in this area.

I did this route with only 2 #3 camalots, and 1 #4, but you might was well take 3 of them. If you are linking the whole thing into 1 pitch, you probably want a 4th or 5th.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Migraine (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Agree with Josh. I thought this route was great, really fun and interesting climbing, but I wouldn't recommend anyone do this route until the anchor is replaced. Also, you might as well replace the old 1/4" bolt protecting the crux move, and probably should lower it 3 feet so you can actually clip it before you do the move. Wish I had my bolt kit with me, but alas I live too far away to expect to come back to this soon.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : Lap Dance (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a really fun and quality route. A few comments on the conditions of it.

At the top of pitch 1, there is a suitcase sized death block teetering just below the belay. I was not able to pull it out but it has about 4" of play if you pull on it. It will come down on its own if not removed intentionally. I pasted a few large "X" marks on it and hope these dont wash off. It will scare the bejesus out of anyone who accidentally tugs on it.

This route, just like all the others we climbe... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Dont start in teh Aviary corner, start about 20 feet right and head straight for the seam splitting the wall. At the top of the 2nd pitch, head right(west) around the corner to find the 3rd pitch dihedral, not a plumb line so you have to travel a bit.

Also, I linked the first two pitches with a 60m and belayed just left of the right facing corner, at a fixed pin with two good small cams. Probably best to finish through the easy corner and head for the big ledge if you have a 70m. Will be a ... more >>


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