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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Aaron Miller
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Point Rank: # 545
Total Points: 1,296
Last Year: 278
Last 30 Days: 2
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 570 | Routes 85 | Areas 9 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 150 | Posts 2 | Stars 251 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall
By: Aaron Miller When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments:
  • *******************************************************************************
There have been several accidents on this wall in its history of rock climbing. One very recently that resulted in the loss of life. The Winter Wall is not an average sport crag, the routes are long and often require more than one rope to descend.

Please be careful and take your time with your rockcraft. Always test your setup and use redundancy before committing to whatever system you are using. See [[George's... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Appendicitis (5.9+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: It is best to do this route in 2 pitches as the bolting is not in a plumb line. Instead of belaying from the mid anchors, it is much better to climb a little higher to a huge comfortable ledge where you can clip a bolt and place a bomber gold camalot as an anchor. This ledge is too high to rappel from with a single rope so use the nice bolted midway anchor to lower from on your way down.

As a side note, there was a fatal accident on this route resulting from a rigging mistake while descending ... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : AdiĆ³s Alemanes (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: The #6 doesn't give you much, I placed it about a foot above the #5 and then had to climb past it anyhow.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Pyramid of South Rabbit Ear : King Slut (5.11b/c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Heads up, the first pitch has lots of cacti on it, and I engaged with a rattler at the start of the second pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Pintrest (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Find the start of this line at a nice corner with a crumbly looking start heading up into hand crack. Its around the corner from the Monkey-Spank/Squoze area, easy to spot. The rock may look soft here, but its way better than that and gets quickly into bullet hard stone with spectacular movement. Highly recommended.

Make 2 raps down the west face of this wall on good bolted anchors. Also, another amazing pocket above knifeblade takes a .5 or .4 camalot. Look for it!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Perk Up (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: This route shares anchor with Silver City. 2 raps to ground or, with 70m, a single rap gets you to 10 feet from ground with some downclimbing. I recommend 2 raps through midway anchor on slabs.

The start of this route has two options. You can start in a techy corner, small but good gear with a bolt 20 feet up (5.11), or ten feet right of this there is a 5.8 variation up dirty blocks to the slab anchor. From here, there is a committing mantle onto the slab. Also, the last move of this pitch ... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Silver City (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Good route. New anchor at belay ledge shared by this and Perk-Up. Two raps required to get down, or single 70m gets you to within 10 feet of ground with some scrambling. Recommend 2 raps.

Standard rack to #4 is good beta, but make sure its a new #4 or old #3.5, the old purple #4 is a bit too big to protect the roof move. Also, at the start of the climb from the slab anchor, I went right for a few moves before moving left, the rock was better (even considering the sc... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Miner's Crag
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: This is an interesting crag, lots of cool and varied routes. The rock is flaky in spots but generally good. Would clean up well with more traffic, but dont expect that any time soon.

Just so everyone knows, 2015 has been a fairly wet year with some big rain events. We climbed about 5 routes here in October and they were all covered in a fine silt from probably a big pour-over or two. We had to brush holds as we climbed as they were slick as snot. Once brushed and blown free of dust, they w... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face : Let The Daylight In (5.12a/b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: I think I climbed this route, but cant really tell from the description here. The book does not have all these routes either. Can anyone help out with beta here?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face : Speed of Sound (5.11b/c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Im assuming this is the route with the cracked arete? Fun climbing.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: It would be super helpful if there were route names on this photo. Its hard to parse these from the descriptions alone.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 6. Wayne Manor : The Penguin (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: This is almost an amazingly awesome route, as the corner climbing at the start (bolted crack with mostly face-climbing moves) is super fun. The climbing on the upper section is a little contrived as its really close to the 11a just left of it (you can reach all the holds if desired) and its hard to see the little micro pocket you need to reach for to make the move over the bulge-arete. With that said, it was fun, safe, and worth doing. Shares Anchor with Cat-Woman.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Wild and Scenic : The Red Tail Wall : New Mexican Riviera (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: This pitch has 5 or 6 bolts on it, so you only need a single rack, but make sure you bring down to a green C3 or Blue Alien size, or some nuts of various sizes. Surprisingly good and interesting finish. This route is the right of the two routes at the lowest part of this wall and starts off with several bolts as well.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Wild and Scenic : The Red Tail Wall : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The text is unreadable on this photo. Can we get a better version?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Paradise City (5.10)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: This is a super fun route. It has great holds on good rock, but there is still some loose stuff to either side of the bolt line. If you travel off the line, just pay attention!

It will clean up with traffic and I expect, considering its grade and the fun style, this route will get lots of traffic.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: I think it would greatly help to find any of the crags in the Sandias if the aspect were listed. This one in particular. The face is due west, morning shade, afternoon sun.

Also, after leaving the trail junction saddle heading south towards the tramway summit, you are directly over Echo Cyn, of which the YFT is a west facing wall on a protruding ridge.

Great rock!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: While installing Under Powered I had the opportunity to finally clean off some of the bad rock on KSR. I dont htink the grade has changed at all, some former holds are gone, some new ones arrived. Hoping its a little safer now, not claiming its totally clean, just better. I do feel that its way more enjoyable without worrying if your hold will break your tooth.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: July, 2015 we cleaned most of the bad rock off this route. Also added a starting bolt so that you are not forced to place a cam in a slightly flexing finger crack. It cleaned up really nicely and climbs well.

This route is also the start to "Ring Around The Rosie".


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Standing on the Edge of Ext... (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Lower bolt added 05/2015. Also moved second bolt (formerly 1st bolt) so that you no longer need to climb off-route to clip it.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Crispy the Renegade (5.12a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: 1st bolt added 06/22/2015. No longer need stick clip.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: Cleaned the living-crap out of this route. There were some glued-on holds and lots of loose stuff--all gone. The route climbs differently now and I dont think the grade changed too much. Its actually a very nice line, we fixed the first 3 crux clips with steel chain/biners and it flows well. You will want to start on Lower Rosie to link into the 5.13 climbing, keeps the rope nice and clean.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Kev Crack (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Kevin Obrien made the first attempt at this fun corner, thinking it was an established warmup route. Halfway up, the crusty and loose blocks (now mostly cleaned out) convinced him of otherwise, and he lowered off a cam that sat there the next two years. We finally went and gave this line the love it deserved. Turned out to be a fun route, will clean up nicely with a little traffic. Great addition to an already nice warmup sector on the Upper Wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this super fun route in March. The final anchor, atop pitch 6, is not safe. There is really only one bolt holding it together, and that bolt is not exactly new either.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Do these numbers refer to something? For instance, I got on route #8 in the topo, I thought was an 11+, and when I got to the roof block, there seemed to be 3 options but it wasn't obvious which was which. Heading right had lots of rope drag around a sharp corner and hollow blocks to pull on, up looked loose and scary, and left required me to downclimb, back-clean a draw, and then traverse left.
I guess I just not sure what route I actually got on.

I see that this photo was posted in ... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Buck Up (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 climbs better than it looks. Pitch 2 is amazing. Bring a set of C3s or similar, nuts work too. #3 cam not necessary, but can be used. The rock quality on this route is spectacular.


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