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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Aaron Miller


Point Rank: # 612
Total Points: 1,030
Last Year: 166
Last 30 Days: 20
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aaron Miller been climbing?










Contributions


All 465 | Routes 65 | Areas 9 | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 2 | Stars 213 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renegade Sector : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Its only 11C past the first set of anchors, can be done with a single 70m in one pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Handyman (5.10)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Where else can you climb 80 feet of perfect hands through slightly overhanging splitter crack!!!

I would recommend traversing left all the way to the hands corner to start the climb. Bring some long draws to help you get there. The earlier finger start up the groove has some questionable rock. The route is awesome, worth the weird start!!!!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Frogger (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 11, 2014

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Comments: Bring a fist-full of purple camalots. Minimum of 3.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Good map Josh.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Boring Crack : Boring Crack (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic pitch. Not to be missed if climbing in this area.

I did this route with only 2 #3 camalots, and 1 #4, but you might was well take 3 of them. If you are linking the whole thing into 1 pitch, you probably want a 4th or 5th.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Migraine (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Agree with Josh. I thought this route was great, really fun and interesting climbing, but I wouldn't recommend anyone do this route until the anchor is replaced. Also, you might as well replace the old 1/4" bolt protecting the crux move, and probably should lower it 3 feet so you can actually clip it before you do the move. Wish I had my bolt kit with me, but alas I live too far away to expect to come back to this soon.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : Lap Dance (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a really fun and quality route. A few comments on the conditions of it.

At the top of pitch 1, there is a suitcase sized death block teetering just below the belay. I was not able to pull it out but it has about 4" of play if you pull on it. It will come down on its own if not removed intentionally. I pasted a few large "X" marks on it and hope these dont wash off. It will scare the bejesus out of anyone who accidentally tugs on it.

This route, just like all the others we climbe... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Dont start in teh Aviary corner, start about 20 feet right and head straight for the seam splitting the wall. At the top of the 2nd pitch, head right(west) around the corner to find the 3rd pitch dihedral, not a plumb line so you have to travel a bit.

Also, I linked the first two pitches with a 60m and belayed just left of the right facing corner, at a fixed pin with two good small cams. Probably best to finish through the easy corner and head for the big ledge if you have a 70m. Will be a ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Jason, Did Thorsten get you to throw his name in the hat?
He knows I'm vulnerable to a solid referendum.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Howzat for improved?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : ... : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: I don't understand what a "Classic Rope and Rock Photo" is. You posted several of them, just wondering.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: Superb route up a very scenic peak.

Several pitches can be linked. Linked 2 and 3 together, finishing the traverse left to the nice belay below the triple crack corner pitch.
I also climbed pitch 5 and 6 together by going straight up the plumb line of cracks instead of traversing right. Not sure why the topo says "no" as if you will end up in Oz, it links right into the nice belay below the crux pitch. It may look like there are loose blocks on this pitch but they seemed very solid to me, took... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Live Sector : Urban Legend (5.13-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Great climbing to a technical and powerful finish.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Oh good christ! I guess I have to go take a new picture and redo this thing. The power of criticism is too much to bear.

Perhaps I am just posting crappy photos so that you will have to buy my $50 guidebook someday to Diablo. It will be a nice staple-bound guide on newsprint with maybe one color photo in the centerfold of some bikini-clad local.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Sister of Mercy (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was easier and much better than Dazed A.C. The movement was much more aesthetic and not nearly as cryptic or power-crimpy.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: In my opinion, this route needs bolt hangers that do not flex when you clip them and a separate anchor. It's impossible to clean, and the second is looking at a really crappy swing/fall on cleaning. In addition, don't blow the 3rd clip on lead or you will get smashed into the dihedral. There seems to be a permanent leaver biner on this third bolt.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Capulin Classic (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Bring a red C3 for the tips.
A 70m rope just barely doesn't make it from the top anchors to the lower anchor. You need to either swing hard right to Vicar anchors or bring a 2nd rope.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Tribal Moves (aka Sacred St... (5.12d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This direct start adds a little pump, but no real change in the grade. It also allows someone to climb Native Rituals at the same time.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower : Petrichor Crack (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Beautiful line.

Leave the #5 but take the extra .5, a good trade in my opinion. The top out move takes a 0.3 Camalot in a good horizontal seam if you really need it, but this is 5.7 terrain.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : What's It To You (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: I thought it was heady clipping that bolt! But the crack takes good gear, unlike Sphincter, and climbs really nicely for 25 feet or so.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatte... (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: cheap buttonhead bolts....yuck. Dont fall on them.

Also, the belay is way far back and the second, if not solid at the 5.10 grade, can take a huge dangerous swing coming up to the belay unless you place a good directional. Not really worth the effort for this one, IMHO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Martin Quits (5.10c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Ben (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Animal Magnetism (5.11a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This route is in need of some serious attention. The third, and final bolt before a 30 foot runout on easy slab is a mostly pulled out buttonhead bolt. The fixed pin is mostly hammered in but it protects the crux move (not super easy) and a failing pin here would be a 30+ foot groundfall. Last time I checked fixed pins were not intended to take repeated lead falls, especially when its not in all the way to the hilt.

The rock is super kitty-litter crumbly on this route probably because nobod... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Glasnost Crack (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: This is a really fun upper tier pitch. We accessed it by climbing Moondog, clipping a draw on the anchor, and traversing right about 30 feet to the base of the crack and belay off a good yellow camalot and standing on fairly flat ground. If you leave this cam at the base for the belay, be sure to bring 2-3 more for the pitch.


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