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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: Apr 8, 2014
Contact Aaron Miller


Point Rank: # 657
Total Points: 899
Last Year: 334
Last 30 Days: 1
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Aaron Miller been climbing?










Contributions


All (402) | Routes (59) | Areas (6) | Photos (23) | Comments (104) | Posts (1) | Stars (184) | Ratings (25)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Capulin Classic (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Bring a red C3 for the tips.
A 70m rope just barely doesn't make it from the top anchors to the lower anchor. You need to either swing hard right to Vicar anchors or bring a 2nd rope.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Tribal Moves (aka Sacred St... (5.12d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: This direct start adds a little pump, but no real change in the grade. It also allows someone to climb Native Rituals at the same time.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower : Petrichor Crack (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Beautiful line.

Leave the #5 but take the extra .5, a good trade in my opinion. The top out move takes a 0.3 Camalot in a good horizontal seam if you really need it, but this is 5.7 terrain.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : What's It To You (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: I thought it was heady clipping that bolt! But the crack takes good gear, unlike Sphincter, and climbs really nicely for 25 feet or so.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatte... (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: cheap buttonhead bolts....yuck. Dont fall on them.

Also, the belay is way far back and the second, if not solid at the 5.10 grade, can take a huge dangerous swing coming up to the belay unless you place a good directional. Not really worth the effort for this one, IMHO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Martin Quits (5.10c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Ben (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Animal Magnetism (5.11a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This route is in need of some serious attention. The third, and final bolt before a 30 foot runout on easy slab is a mostly pulled out buttonhead bolt. The fixed pin is mostly hammered in but it protects the crux move (not super easy) and a failing pin here would be a 30+ foot groundfall. Last time I checked fixed pins were not intended to take repeated lead falls, especially when its not in all the way to the hilt.

The rock is super kitty-litter crumbly on this route probably because nobod... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Glasnost Crack (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: This is a really fun upper tier pitch. We accessed it by climbing Moondog, clipping a draw on the anchor, and traversing right about 30 feet to the base of the crack and belay off a good yellow camalot and standing on fairly flat ground. If you leave this cam at the base for the belay, be sure to bring 2-3 more for the pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: This route was done in one long pitch on the FA, however, due to rope drag issues and a possible ledge fall, a mid anchor was placed off the large ledge about 90 feet up.
The first pitch is 5.11 and starts with some big moves through several good .5 camalot placements to an easier slab that brings you to a roof block. Above you get some wild and technical movement where you have to fiddle a few small pieces in. Amazing rock and fantastic climbing.
The second pitch is steep and powerful 11c t... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Tip of the Toe (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Just right of Burning Man. Awesome line!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Futuristic (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Hardest route sent so far. There are plenty of harder lines to be had.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Physical (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Second pitch is fantastic climbing!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Burning Man (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Super amazing route!
Perfect gear beta, cause its a long pitch:

Camalots (3) .5 to 2; (2) .3 and 3; (1) yellow C3, .4
slings/draws-4


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Futuristic (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Josh got the FFA on this one. Proud!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : The Holy Grail (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Bring a 4-foot sling for the transition, makes the rope run nice to the anchors. If you have a second clean the route (reasonable option), they will need to blast through to the first roof piece to avoid a pendulum. Or give em another #4 to hang on if needed.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Juliet (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: A green C3 can be placed high in the block before you move through it. Its bomber!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Stone Temple Pilot (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: The hanger was replaced on the bolt 10-20-13.
Somehow the nut had spun off the bolt, I replaced it and tightened it down good. The bolt was in perfect condition.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: The road to Diablo is currently signed as CLOSED due to the severe washouts on the road from heavy monsoonal rains. With that said, we drove around the sign without any problem and one could access the main parking area on perfectly good roads. Just past this point, they have a lot of reconstruction to do so it is a little messy (read: soft sand). Again, with that said, a 4WD could easily get past this point to climb at the Shack. Otherwise you could walk from the main Diablo parking area. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Super good climbing. Sustained, great movement, often heady, sometimes quite runout. Some rock on upper pitches is questionable but through pitch 4 is solid. Most of bolts are rusted through after pitch 2, but you are still happy to clip each one. Classic!
Lots of hanging belays, If the 5th belay had been 10 feet lower it could have provided a nice comfy scoop to stand in????


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route!
Did this route over 20 years ago with buddy John Rhyer as an aid climb before there were many modern bolts. It was a great experience and some great memories. Funny thing, the parts I remember were not the beautiful pitches but the trying to haul/schlepp the bags through the ledgy pitches. It was great to be able to revisit this route after so long but on very different terms.
The bolt on the second pitch is not gone. Doesn't look like they were ever touched, they are in perf... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : ... : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Some of these routes just plain-ole need maintenance. Since the FA party wont be around to do this into perpetuity then they need to respect that others will.

George is right, if there is a loose block on any route in Diablo, it needs to be pulled. It needs to be done intentionally because its day of unintentional extraction will endanger someones body. That may change the nature of the route, and it may cause need for moving a bolt here and there. We have to trust that the generations to ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Legend of the Fall ("LRP" ... (5.12a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Jean De Lataillade pulled off a large block on one of the early ascents of this route from the upper easy section just below the anchor. Took a 30'+ whipper! The block had been overlooked by the FA party and a couple ascents thereafter. It was just sitting there waiting for the unsuspecting micro-tug.

Be careful! When in doubt, at any crag, use a GriGri(or SUM) and a helmet and belay close to the wall.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Look Reach Pull (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Jean De Lataillade pulled off a large block on one of the early ascents of this route from the upper easy section just below the anchor. Took a 30'+ whipper! The block had been overlooked by the FA party and a couple ascents thereafter. It was just sitting there waiting for the unsuspecting micro-tug.

Be careful! When in doubt, at any crag, use a GriGri(or SUM) and a helmet and belay close to the wall.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : 40-Love (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Ed Strang tagged the first free ascent as part of his (Yawn) warmup. Onsight FFA. I think I'll go dust off my golf clubs.


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