Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Aaron Miller


Point Rank: # 664
Total Points: 933
Last Year: 191
Last 30 Days: 1
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Aaron Miller been climbing?










Contributions


All 431 | Routes 62 | Areas 6 | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 113 | Posts 1 | Stars 198 | Ratings 29
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Dont start in teh Aviary corner, start about 20 feet right and head straight for the seam splitting the wall. At the top of the 2nd pitch, head right(west) around the corner to find the 3rd pitch dihedral, not a plumb line so you have to travel a bit.

Also, I linked the first two pitches with a 60m and belayed just left of the right facing corner, at a fixed pin with two good small cams. Probably best to finish through the easy corner and head for the big ledge if you have a 70m. Will be a ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Jason, Did Thorsten get you to throw his name in the hat?
He knows I'm vulnerable to a solid referendum.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Howzat for improved?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : City Girl (5.9) : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't understand what a "Classic Rope and Rock Photo" is. You posted several of them, just wondering.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak : Direct North Buttress (5.10b PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Superb route up a very scenic peak.

Several pitches can be linked. Linked 2 and 3 together, finishing the traverse left to the nice belay below the triple crack corner pitch.
I also climbed pitch 5 and 6 together by going straight up the plumb line of cracks instead of traversing right. Not sure why the topo says "no" as if you will end up in Oz, it links right into the nice belay below the crux pitch. It may look like there are loose blocks on this pitch but they seemed very solid to me, took... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Urban Legend (5.13-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jun 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great climbing to a technical and powerful finish.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: May 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Oh good christ! I guess I have to go take a new picture and redo this thing. The power of criticism is too much to bear.

Perhaps I am just posting crappy photos so that you will have to buy my $50 guidebook someday to Diablo. It will be a nice staple-bound guide on newsprint with maybe one color photo in the centerfold of some bikini-clad local.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Sister of Mercy (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was easier and much better than Dazed A.C. The movement was much more aesthetic and not nearly as cryptic or power-crimpy.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 PG13)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In my opinion, this route needs bolt hangers that do not flex when you clip them and a separate anchor. It's impossible to clean, and the second is looking at a really crappy swing/fall on cleaning. In addition, don't blow the 3rd clip on lead or you will get smashed into the dihedral. There seems to be a permanent leaver biner on this third bolt.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Capulin Classic (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bring a red C3 for the tips.
A 70m rope just barely doesn't make it from the top anchors to the lower anchor. You need to either swing hard right to Vicar anchors or bring a 2nd rope.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Tribal Moves (aka Sacred St... (5.12d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Mar 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This direct start adds a little pump, but no real change in the grade. It also allows someone to climb Native Rituals at the same time.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower : Petrichor Crack (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful line.

Leave the #5 but take the extra .5, a good trade in my opinion. The top out move takes a 0.3 Camalot in a good horizontal seam if you really need it, but this is 5.7 terrain.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : What's It To You (5.10d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thought it was heady clipping that bolt! But the crack takes good gear, unlike Sphincter, and climbs really nicely for 25 feet or so.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatte... (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: cheap buttonhead bolts....yuck. Dont fall on them.

Also, the belay is way far back and the second, if not solid at the 5.10 grade, can take a huge dangerous swing coming up to the belay unless you place a good directional. Not really worth the effort for this one, IMHO.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Martin Quits (5.10c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Ben (5.10b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Animal Magnetism (5.11a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route is in need of some serious attention. The third, and final bolt before a 30 foot runout on easy slab is a mostly pulled out buttonhead bolt. The fixed pin is mostly hammered in but it protects the crux move (not super easy) and a failing pin here would be a 30+ foot groundfall. Last time I checked fixed pins were not intended to take repeated lead falls, especially when its not in all the way to the hilt.

The rock is super kitty-litter crumbly on this route probably because nobod... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Glasnost Crack (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really fun upper tier pitch. We accessed it by climbing Moondog, clipping a draw on the anchor, and traversing right about 30 feet to the base of the crack and belay off a good yellow camalot and standing on fairly flat ground. If you leave this cam at the base for the belay, be sure to bring 2-3 more for the pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route was done in one long pitch on the FA, however, due to rope drag issues and a possible ledge fall, a mid anchor was placed off the large ledge about 90 feet up.
The first pitch is 5.11 and starts with some big moves through several good .5 camalot placements to an easier slab that brings you to a roof block. Above you get some wild and technical movement where you have to fiddle a few small pieces in. Amazing rock and fantastic climbing.
The second pitch is steep and powerful 11c t... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Tip of the Toe (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just right of Burning Man. Awesome line!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Futuristic (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hardest route sent so far. There are plenty of harder lines to be had.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Physical (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch is fantastic climbing!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Burning Man (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Super amazing route!
Perfect gear beta, cause its a long pitch:

Camalots (3) .5 to 2; (2) .3 and 3; (1) yellow C3, .4
slings/draws-4


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Futuristic (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Josh got the FFA on this one. Proud!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : The Holy Grail (5.11+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bring a 4-foot sling for the transition, makes the rope run nice to the anchors. If you have a second clean the route (reasonable option), they will need to blast through to the first roof piece to avoid a pendulum. Or give em another #4 to hang on if needed.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>