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Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact 303scott

Point Rank: # 2,770
Total Points: 251
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has 303scott been climbing?










Contributions


All 329 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 96 | Stars 72 | Ratings 52
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Slab Variation (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: Nice slab climb - definitely gets you prepped for slab climbing other routes nearby. Harder than the slab on Topaz.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : The Citadel (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: While the lower section is a bit in your face, I think the technical crux is at and above the last bolt going to the anchors. Really nice route with a little bit of spice to it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Even with the new bolt, I think this merits a more serious rating than the PG in Levin's new book. If you belay from the large ledge about 50 feet below, I suspect you would hit the intermediate ledge if you blew the crux. If you belay directly below the crux dihedral, you would have a better chance of avoiding the ledge, but it would still be a long, awkward fall. The crux is 8-10 feet above the bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Right Crack or Last Crack (... (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun route and worth doing if you are in the area. Unfortunately, ends in a dirty thin corner that detracts from the climb overall. NO ANCHOR even though the book indicates one - downclimb low 5th class to the west (or downlead). There are two cold shuts about 30 feet west of the route, but easier to just downclimb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner ... (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: This route has nice position on the cliff and very good climbing. one #4 is ok, two would be better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: As with others, I am a bit confused on which side of the block one climbs for this route. I took the right side of the block (not shown in Tony's photos) which was pretty much perfect hands on very steep rock. Sew it up with 1 each orange and red Metolius, 2 yellow C4s, and 1 blue C4 for the 20 feet of easy climbing after the roof to the anchors (optional). Fun, short climb.

The anchor is a 5 inch slung "tree," with a highly questionable root system, backed up to a bush. Not the worst I have se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : The Ground Doesn't Lie (5.10c/d)
By: 303scott When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: FYI, the third bolt is loose (not just a spinning hanger, the bolt itself is loose in the hole).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Some additional route finding beta in case you, like us, forgot any sort of topo or route map and only have the MP printout. Also, we felt the ratings were a bit sandbagged and have listed them like we would call them.

P1. 5.7-.8. You are looking for a right-facing corner with a big “ear” to the right about 25 feet up. Climb around the ear to the right to the top of it, and then head up and left on a thin seam. You are aiming for a good ledge near a “tooth” about 180 feet up and below a h... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Contra (5.11b)
By: 303scott When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: If Strohs and Venture Capital are 11a, this is easily 11b. The rock is fairly friable so maybe some holds have broken off? Two distinct .11 cruxes I thought.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: If you want to lug a #6 camalot up it protects the first pitch OW quite nicely. Definitely not necessary, but I was glad to have it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The route doesn't get sun until late morning this time of year (like 1030-11). First pitch is a stout warm-up with a tricky upper crux - could be top-rope protected if you bring a #4 Camalot. Highly recommend breaking up pitch 2 into two shorter pitches - our rope got hung up in the loose blocks, and I had to rap a fixed line to free it - would have been avoided if we moved the belay to the p-2 belay for Verging on Perversion.

Finally, there are new bolted rap stations that a single 70m... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Trial (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Looks like the anchors were moved higher. From where we belayed, it was a full 120 foot pitch. With the higher anchor location you end with about 15 feet of thin/sandy laybacking- remember to bring orange and yellow mastercams for the top or be prepared to run it out a bit. This climb felt like solid 10+ to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: 303scott When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Dan, thanks for the route description, it was spot on (as usual). Fun romp up Helen's Dome and a great intro to the area. Gradewise I would suggest something around 5.5 or 5.6. That is based on doing Spree and Gettin the Groove after FF, both of which were significantly harder. So if those are .8 and .7 respectively, I would say FF is more like 5.6.

One hanger missing on the 4th pitch as of yesterday, but the terrain is easy. There may be one missing on the last pitch, but you are litera... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Hey Monty, glad you liked the route and thanks for posting that sweet pic! Regarding the C0 versus A0 rating, I know next to nothing about aid. However, my understanding of clean aid is that if a party can ascend the route without a hammer it is clean aid (even if bolts are present). Of course, that could be completely wrong, and I will be happy to change it if that's the case!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Mike! I believe you can rap with a 70m to the anchors at the top of p1 of the route (p2 of Rainbow Highway) based on another party telling me my ends reached - I have not done it. However, you can't get to the ground (although you could probably build an intermediate anchor and clean it on the way up). I have rapped to the bottom of the crux pitch (pitch 3) on a single 70m. A few of the raps are pretty close, so watch ends. It is in prime shape right now, so let us know what you think... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: As a follow up, I have not given this route any stars. Much like a proud new father, I would likely find it beautiful no matter what: 5 stars on a 4-star scale. Thus, we will wait to see what the community thinks. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Joe! As you know it was a bit of work. Here's the history: This route first caught my eye on September 16, 2012. Rainbow Highway had just been completed, and the reviews from friends were that it was spectacular. My cousin and I rappelled in on that day, and, on the rappel from the top of the 4th pitch, I noticed what appeared to be a very dirty, splitter, finger crack in slightly less than vertical rock on a perfectly clean face. It was love at first sight…. The entire route was... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans
By: 303scott When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: As of last weekend, Denver Mountain Parks has started charging $5 to park at Summit Lake. Don't know if you can avoid the fees by parking out on the road. It doesn't appear that there is any type of annual pass.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Montana Gangster (5.11)
By: 303scott When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Really great route. The direct start is to .10c what the Southwest Corner of the Saber is to .10a. Yes, there are no moves harder than .10c, but I counted 2-3 .10c cruxes, the gear is quite finicky, and there are no real rests once the difficulties start. In other words, it is fantastic.

We got lost on pitch 2. MP says to follow the obvious line up the prow, and Gillett says "step right" to the West side. After looking at the West side (dead vertical and huge exposure), there was no way I... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Alpine Lite Cliffs : Main Wall : The German and the Scot (5.10a)
By: 303scott When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: The climbing on this route is quite good, but the approach knocks it down a bit. We soloed a bunch of low fifth class x rated (sometimes wet) slabs to get to it. I would definitely recommend going down to the lower lake and starting from there, as opposed to traversing in from the west. Stays in the shade until about 2PM this time of year.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Approach beta: climb the gully on the east side of the formation all the way to the top (basically until you can't climb any higher without roping up). When you look up, you will be directly under the large triangular roof that Drew McLean refers to. There is a 4th class ledge that reaches the ground there that is very hard to see from below. Take the ledge up and left for about 50 meters (with sparse but reasonable pro), and belay at the first spot where you can build a reasonable anchor. ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cheeseburger In Paradise (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Ivan. I thought this was the Raven and fairly graded at 5.9+. A bit tricky at the shallow corner, but not harder than 9+.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Vari... (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: I think this photo is of Linkage,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Country (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: I felt this was significantly harder than Linkage (a few routes right), which was a fairly standard .10.


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