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Member Since: Feb 2, 2009
Last Visit: 36 mins ago
Contact 20 kN

Point Rank: # 750
Total Points: 1,052
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 49
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2973 | Routes 61 | Areas 1 | Photos 79 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 2680 | Stars 97 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Rock Strength : Examples of General Rock St...
By: 20 kN When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: The Rock Type Compressive Strength Range is off. For example, sandstone can be far softer than the quoted minimal value of 2,900 PSI. In reality, soft sandstone can be as low as 500 PSI or even lower for low-quality sandstone.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Maybe I was having a poor day (probably since I got up at 4 AM), but this route felt extremely hard for 11c. Maybe no single move is harder than .11c, but the route felt quite rather sustained at 5.11. Then again it does have a lot of wide crack on it, and I suck at wide crack, so.... Anyway, it is a great route and totally worth doing.

We took the 5.10"R" middle flake on P2. Mind the feet are a bit slippery. You can protect the entire flake with cams, but the flake seems if it's just suspended... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Fool's Gold (5.12+)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Overall, aside from the first two pitches, I found the climbing to travel over rather chossy rock. Specifically, the 5.0, 5.10b and 5.11b pitches are a bit on the chossy side. Worst of all, there is a massive ledge at the base of the .12+ pitch, and it is completely covered in bird shit, which of course got all over me, my shoes, my rope, draws, etc.

I think the route has potential, but it needs a lot of trundling, cleaning, and deep scrubbing before it could legitimately receive three stars. T... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a/b)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Beta for the multipitch version:

The 3rd pitch, called 5.5 X in the guidebook, is probably more like R-rated. It's about 80% fourth class and then some easy 5th at the top. There is one bolt on this pitch, but it's inconveniently located about 20' below the actual crux. The "crux" section of the 5.5 is very easy obviously, but it was completely, utterly covered in lichen when I tried it.

Anyway, pretty much everything above P1 is mostly unclimbed. It's glaringly obvious almost no one climbs th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11a/b)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: There are a few loose blocks on this route. They might never come off, or they might come off tomorrow, who knows? Just something to keep in the back of your mind when yarding on the blocks from directly under them. A number of holds had chalked Xs on them, indicating they were loose (and indeed they were).

We rapped with a single 60.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: 20 kN When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: Note that you cannot rap this route with a single 70m. You either need two 50s or one 80m.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Front Side aka El Toro : ... : Land of the Free (5.12b PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Often ignored, but one of the best climbs in EPC! The exposure is incredible and the climbing is fun. Bolt spacing is fairly legit. I think the 5.10 pitches only had about four bolts on them, and the 5.11 pitches were often spaced 10-15' between bolts. The only time I remember the spacing coming closer than 10' was during the crux of the 5.11+ and 5.12 pitch. Falls are clean though. A single rack to about a #1 Camalot will help here and there.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: No mid June is not too early. It might be rather hot then actually.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: A number of bolts need to be tightened. Nearly all of the bolts are 3/8" wedge bolts with nuts. So if you plan to climb this, try to bring a wrench and tighten up some of the nuts.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Silverback (5.12+)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Loose rock warning: On pitch five (according to Supertopo book), the pitch with the giant 5.10 flake, when my partner reached the base of the flake he stood on a block which fragmented into a number of double-baseball-sized blocks that flew down at me, missing me by a foot or two. It also dislodged a desert of sand which rained down on me and the rest of the route for about 60 seconds straight. Further, rock fell down on me on two other pitches as well.

Just be aware that this route does have s... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12+)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Since the original post is a bit unclear (gear list says single 70m), you CANNOT rap this route with a single 70m. We tried and came up 10' too short, even while simulrapping. A single 80m would probably be just barely long enough if simulrapping, or two 50m ropes would be fine too. I am not sure why the OP said to bring a single 70m because you dont need anything more than a 60m to lead any of the pitches and a 70m wont get you to the bottom.

As far as shade goes, since someone else asked, the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: West face, AKA Darude Sandstorm, is like a beach—literally. I am pretty sure this route has more sand on it than the entire Sahara Desert has in it. The route starts out in some really dirty, sandy, overly soft rock and then continues into a #4 wide fists. Clip the 1st belay, which of course is some old drilled angles, and then pull the chimney move. My partner couldent squeeze through with his helmet on, so he left it in the chimney. By the time we got down his helmet was filled with a p... more >>


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Cactus Garden (5.9- PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: All the bolts that were originally placed are still there. Developers added an additional bolt at the crux this year as well.


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall
By: 20 kN When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: The area has been reopened.


As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened. All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:

hiclimb.org/join.php

Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on t... more >>


Location: Hawaii
By: 20 kN When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: There is some climbing on Maui. Check the Maui section of MP for more info.


Location: Hawaii
By: 20 kN When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: There is no development there mostly due to a lack of rock. If you are a serious climber, the Big Island is not the place for you.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: what happened?


Location: Moonlight Buttress : Photo
By: 20 kN When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Careful ascending a fixed line with the rope running over sharp sandstone there. because there is some distance between the anchor and the end of the cliff (15' it looks like) the rope will stretch and bob around while the climber is ascending it. The sandstone will cut through the rope and it could kill your partner. you have to be super aware of that stuff. Some people put duck tape on the rope and rock where it's unavoidable, and the leader should be standing right next to the rope ensuring i... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Mount Garfield : Infinite Bliss (5.10c R)
By: 20 kN When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: GPS coordinates for the "parking lot."

N47.54604
W121.52151
Elevation: 1174'


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11b)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING:

I climbed this line today and noticed a serious safety issue with the fixed quickdraws. All of the fixed draws have aluminum biners and all of the biners have warn groves in the basket. The penetration range is from 25-40%. Keep in mind that the sharp edges produced in these biners can cut your rope in half if you fall and get a hard catch. Even if you do not get a hard catch, you can still get a core shot from warn biners. It has happened in a number of different areas, most notably t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11b)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: WARNING:

All of the fixed draws have aluminum biners and all of the biners have warn groves in the basket. The grove penetration ranges from 25% to 40%. Keep in mind that the sharp edges produced by the groves in these biners can cut your rope in half if you fall and get a hard catch. Even if you do not get a hard catch, you can still get a core shot from warn biners. It has happened in a number of different areas; most notably the RRG. Do not underestimate the danger presented by exc... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Officer Friendly (5.11b/c)
By: 20 kN When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: CAUTION:

The second and third bolts on this route are in need of replacement. One of them is severely bent and both of them have been drawn out of the rock excessively. Keep in mind that if you fall on one of these bolts and they fail, you are going to take a free fall onto the slab. So just keep that in mind when climbing the route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: 20 kN When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: And the combination pulley itself should be backed up with a quickdraw.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Guide/Instructor TippingGeneral Climbing20 kN4 days ago
re: How do you interpret safety ratings?Trad Climbing20 kN6 days ago
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