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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: 10b4me When: Jan 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt a little cheated by the bolts. Easily half of them could have been removed and good gear could be placed.
If this route were in Eldo, there would be 4 total bolts and 3 bent over pitons.
I guess I can't bring my trad ethic on vacation with me.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3)
By: 10b4me When: Jan 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: ***The gully turns into a waterfall in the rain.***
Just did this route (1/31/05) with weather a forecast of 20% chance of showers. Ended up in torrential rain and hail.
Make sure to check the weather before planning to use Solar Slab Gully as a decent. If there is any chance of rain, skip it!
We ended up hunkering down for the night halfway through the decent. Another climbing team got caught in the weather and rolled through our camp in the night - they were suffering from hypothermia ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Illusion Crags : Arm Forces (5.9)
By: 10b4me When: Nov 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My guess is that the climb is named "arm forces" because of the arm bar needed to finish the off-widthy second roof. I was able to place a #4 below the roof and a #3 in the roof. I might have liked a #3.5 instead but the #3 held me when I fell just after pulling over the lip, so it certainly did its job.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: 10b4me When: Nov 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route - big day, not because of the climb itself but due to the approach and the descent. This may be it's only drawback- you are expending a lot of energy to climb only 4 or 5 good pitches. The single rope descent described in supertopo seemed flawless - we found an anchor just above the final slab portion of the descent which avoided a steep downclimb. I would guess that many find the crux pitches to be far more straight forward than the 2nd pitch (5.8) with its awkward section and the fi... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: 10b4me When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, but definitely soft for the grade. The climbing is just plain fun! Also recommend the dihedral to the right, it's not in the book but probably in the 5.10 range.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: 10b4me When: Oct 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I only had the original 1970's small little red guidebook that describes this route in detail for 6 pitches and then says something like "climb a bit more to the top and then walk-off down the ravine." I will say the first 4 pitches are spectacular - some of the best climbing I've done at Red Rocks. The next two pitches were so-so and the last "bit" of climbing to the top was actually two more full rope lengths of sketchy moderate face climbing with essentially no pro. We got t... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: 10b4me When: Oct 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does Anyone know the location of the route Rose Hips, the guide gives a description of the pitches but isn't very clear where it starts.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: 10b4me When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combine pitch 1 & 2 as described by Chris. The obvious hand crack to the L of the tree felt like 5.8. The crux dihedral pitch requires some stemming trickery and use of holds on the L wall - bring extra blue aliens and save a 2.5F for the last 20 feet. The next 2 pitches can also be combined in 1 long pitch - the slot has no similarity to the Harding Slot - its pretty tame now. The final crack takes alot of 3-3.5 F sizes and 2 or 3 #1 Camalots.
Excellent route. Could use a rap route ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: 10b4me When: Sep 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the upper pitches are worthwhile. I felt the route was sustained which made the walkoff long and painful(lots of hanging belays which smoked my legs:)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : Lemon Bomb (5.11d)
By: 10b4me When: Sep 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have heard of folks climbing the flare above Red Zinger, did you find any sign of passage above the roof?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: 10b4me When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Vegastradclimber about topping out on the route. Here's some beta if your interested.
Pitch 8 scramble up 4th class to find a bolted station below a steep wall.
Pitch 9: A great pitch! Climb up a vertical thin crack using many face holds (tons of bolts -many of which should be chopped as there are great placements most of the way) 5.9
Pitch10: Another nice pitch! Continue up a the obvious crack clipping a few bolts along the way. 5.9
Pitch 11: take the right crack (thinner on... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: 10b4me When: Sep 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do yourself a favor and climb the 4th pitch. It is one of the best crack/corner pitches I've done in Red Rocks and is much more sustained at about 5.10 than the lower pitches. When I climbed it we summited, but there were fixed bolts at the top of the 4th pitch. I still can't figure out how people stop on the top of the third pitch after looking at the beautiful corner above.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: 10b4me When: Aug 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this book, kudos Joanne! I climbed most of the routes that you outlined and completely agree and appreciate your summary! Keep up the awesome work!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Thong (V-easy R)
By: 10b4me When: Aug 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great Problem to muse. Takes a little time but is well worth it!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Buffalo Wall
By: 10b4me When: Jun 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can scramble up Two Fools Chute and aviod all class 5 and 4 climbing to the base of Buffalo Wall. This chute is well before where the trail descends into the wash.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: 10b4me When: Jun 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can actually desend climber's left and aviod a rap. Mainly class 2 with a little class 3 to keep things honest!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: 10b4me When: May 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this route North Facing?
What kind of sun exposure does it get at this time of the year?
Would it be ok to climb in mid to late May?
Thanks
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: 10b4me When: Apr 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a route! Doing it in a day is a must, George's site has the best topo currently available (thanks, George!). One tip for those planning the route (as heard from George): As you finish the catwalk, look to your right up a gully. The left hand wall of this gully is your pitch, not the corner in front of you!
All in all a great route- we topped at 5:20pm and made it to the fork of First Creek before dark, back to the car about an hour and a half later!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: 10b4me When: Apr 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The very last belay is indeed missing a bolt, so I just climbed past it and built a belay about 25-30 feet passed it. The descent is pretty straight forward once you remeber to go to Whiskey Peak by hiking across the saddle on the back of the Black Velvet Tower.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Mudterm (5.9)
By: 10b4me When: Apr 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blue Arrow indicates Mudterm, Green Arrow indicates rappel for the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Tonto (5.5)
By: 10b4me When: Apr 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rumor has it that someone yanked the rap station on top of Tonto- forcing a walk off. If I get out there sometime soon, I'll take some webbing and replace it, but if anyone beats me to it, we'd all appreciate it...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: 10b4me When: Mar 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found Ginger Cracks to be a thoroughly enjoyable route! The bolts don't detract from the route at all, considering the amount of natural gear and the quality of the rock.The newly bolted top pitch variation will no doubt generate some controversy, but we joked about it being the sport climb with the longest approach in RR (do the first 6 pitches of Ginger Cracks)! This route is a great day out, and comes highly recommended. The easy descent is a bonus.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: 10b4me When: Feb 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt has a "hanger" made of an old sawn-off soft iron ring piton with a hole drilled in the blade.
The other bolt has a BROKEN cold shut for a hanger.
Strange, because the bolts themselves seem new.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: 10b4me When: Nov 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We used a medium sized nut to protect the final pitch. Placed it only about 6 inches below the bolt but it could be placed before beginning to climb and it is mildly reasuring in that one is less likely to fall on the belayer. Not entirely necessary but a suggestion.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: 10b4me When: Nov 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route on 11/10 and didn't see another soul. I can't believe that people will b#$ch about this route. Same move over and over, ropes get stuck, extra bolts (here's an idea, don't clip em)other people on the route, too many trails to choose from and hanging belays to boot. Hush whiners, this climb is great, period. Can't really beat 9 pitches of well protected, exposed, super positive 5.8 climbing. (Except maybe next door on unimpeachable)Get there early and watch your ropes.
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