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Member Since: Sep 28, 2003
Last Visit: Sep 28, 2005
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Point Rank: # 1,464
Total Points: 133
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All (86) | Routes | Areas (1) | Photos (16) | Comments (38) | Posts | Stars (17) | Ratings (14)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: ????? When: Jan 11, 2006

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Comments: Some climbers wanting warn folks: there are 2 main flows from the bottom, they strongly recommend taking the right start and traverse to the left to the P1 belay or wait til next season. 13cm screws for the first 300 ft with 17 cm screws for belays. They say "sorry."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: ????? When: Nov 15, 2005

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Comments: From what I could tell they were older (original?) hangers and it didn't look like any of them had been chopped, but I wasn't inspecting them with that in mind.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: ????? When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: Short but fun...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: ????? When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: Fun jugs down low...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: ????? When: Nov 14, 2005

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Comments: Sweet route, temp-dependent


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: ????? When: Nov 11, 2005

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Comments: One of the best pitches...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: ????? When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: From a distance, AMU appears to be starting to touch down, though thin. Lots of wind whipping snow around.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: ????? When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: Also being serious, are you sure it wasn't a bull snake, they can live at higher elevations and try to mimic rattlesnakes...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: ????? When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Sweet Sweet Lovin' (V1)
By: ????? When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: You'll be trespassing to get to Campjack rock and most of the three large outcroppings are on private land (including that largest rock). Get the owner's permission and a written slip so the rancher/lessee won't call the sheriff. The owner is at 307.635.0710


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Mantle/Hump V3 (V3)
By: ????? When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: You'll be trespassing to get to Campjack rock and most of the three large outcroppings are on private land (including that largest rock). Get the owner's permission and a written slip so the rancher/lessee won't call the sheriff. The owner is at 307.635.0710


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Little America (V5)
By: ????? When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: You'll be trespassing to get to Campjack rock and most of the three large outcroppings are on private land (including that largest rock). Get the owner's permission and a written slip so the rancher/lessee won't call the sheriff. The owner is at 307.635.0710


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Jump Start V1 (V1)
By: ????? When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: You'll be trespassing. Get the owner's permission and a written slip so the rancher/lessee won't call the sheriff. The owner is at 307.635.0710


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks : Jet Stream (5.9)
By: ????? When: Oct 21, 2005

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Comments: Hate to tell you that this is private property and you are trespassing not only getting there but even while on the rock. The owner gives permission if you are nice and promise to pick up trash on the way in and out, but you should get a permission slip or the rancher/lessee will chase you off, or worse. Call the owner at 307.635.0710.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: ????? When: Jun 28, 2005

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Comments: Moral of the story: Faster is better, get up at noon, lounge poolside until it cools down, get out to crag once everyone is high on the wall, and then blast to top of whatever route you want to, catching up to the other parties as they start the downclimb...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Choss Temple Pilots (5.8)
By: ????? When: Jun 22, 2005

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Comments: The last comment is why the Sport Park is the best climbing in front range...bolted cracks...sick...z-clipping off of ledges...the sickest...the only part that they are leaving out is that route was originally rated 13a because some wanker really wanted to "climb 13" so they put their own up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: ????? When: Jun 7, 2005

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Comments: I think there are two ways to toss up to the jug...one uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug.

I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Vitamin-N (5.8+)
By: ????? When: Jun 5, 2005

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Comments: Good route, I agree on the fun bottom moves. Also, exited to the left near the top, which I am sure was harder if you took it straight on. Fun. Please be on the lookout for possible raptor nest above Lunchmoney. I witnessed a large hawk landing and taking off briefly from an area above the anchors for Lunchmoney 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: ????? When: Jan 26, 2005

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Comments: Does anyone know what the walk-off potential for this route is like if one goes EAST from the summit? Specifically, I like to link this up with the Yellow Spur sometime. Does that put you near the base of the Spur?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Highlander (5.10d)
By: ????? When: Jan 5, 2005

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Comments: A damn fun route with a fun crux between the the last bolt and the anchors.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Blackjack (5.10-)
By: ????? When: Sep 20, 2004

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Comments: Chillumstone is not between Dragon Point and North Chasm View Over look. It is between Devils Overlook and North Chasm View Over Look.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil...
By: ????? When: Sep 1, 2004

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Comments: I climb in the Tarryalls and Lost Creek areas a lot, and Pete is certainly right. There is an amazing amount of quality stone and a handful of geezers, old farts and even a few young farts occasionally cranking up them.

The area is wild, long approaches are typical, information is scant, fixed pro is rare.... and thats exactly what makes the place so special. Past climbers have made a special effort, I believe, to maintain the wild character of the Tarryalls and Lost Creek Wilderness.

It ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Dynamic Duel (5.13a)
By: ????? When: Aug 26, 2004

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Comments: Yeah, only if you redpoint up to the lip and limply brush it with your hand as you plummet back to earth...but I heard if you mantel the lip you are no longer classified as ultralyte


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil...
By: ????? When: Aug 24, 2004

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Comments: Rest assured my friends Lost Creek did not burn. We did a 23 mile loop on the south end and were blown away by the massive domes. Still searching for beta of the area but can't find anything. I am assuming its untouched by climbers but someone has to have scaled the incredible granite.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : La Plata : Ellingwood Ridge
By: ????? When: Aug 22, 2004

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Comments: START EARLY, I know this is common sense on the big mountains,but we started at about nine, made it to the start of the ridge and had to turn around due to the time of day. of course were no speed demons! we certainly learned our lesson.


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