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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va...
By: Justin Locke When: 17 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Seeing that 90 % of the entries here are from Ben, and very old at that, I wonder just how much traffic this particular site gets.
Anywhoo, if anyone is interested a small troop of us drove from Taos this weekend to find all climbs on the east side of Wolf Creek either non-existent or thin and rotten. We need a lot more moisture and cold temps in the area for anything of substance to come in solid.
Our plan B was to stop at Blue Plate Special and that was a pleasant surprise since it was in mos... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Scott Matz When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Was on route the 25th, ice was in but thin at times. a little runout right now on the 3rd pitch, P1, and 2 looked good. P4 was thin in the chimney. The snow fields were consolidated, but noticed big snow cyrstalls for base layer. Watch for avalanche conditions.
P.S. if anyone finds an O.R. mitten, hit me up.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Stoneman (WI5 PG13)
By: Tom Dickey When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Stoneman is in excellent shape-- there are 3 separate lines to do at the moment-- all good, and different in difficulties. We hit the same ice dam at the very top of the easy ice-- beware. bring shorties for a lot of the route. Highly recommended.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Matthew Hansen When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Notchtop via the North Face route on November 29, 2009. The trail to Lake Helene is pack down and solid. The snowfield below the route is solid, feet didn't penetrate through the snow and crampons were necessary. Pitch 1 is covered by the snowfield, so you can just walk to the fixed anchor for Pitch 2. Pitch 2 is quite thin but climbable and was the crux of the route. Pitches 3 and 4 are in great shape, thick and solid. Used screws for all protection, brought rock gear but never us... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : Upper Falls (WI2)
By: Wes B. When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Upper Flow Conditions 11/29/09. Not worth the hike. . . yet.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity
By: Rodney Ley When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Visited Loch Vale ice flows on Saturday, November 28. Not in on right side or Mixed Feelings (almost nothing touching the ground--if you climb it please be gentle). Mo Flo Than Go was in about 50% of max, a little water here and there, okay spot for two teams who cooperate (thanks guys from Golden). Needs a little more freezing and fattening.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: SAL When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route today and when I got to the first anchor saw that one of the new bolts was loose. The hanger was stripped off and the nut was loose. It had a stopper slung behind it. The bolt itself is really loose. So the anchor consists of a blue runner girth hitched through a near by drilled angle. The loose bolt with the stopper on it. and one shiny new good looking bolt. I left a biner on the runner/stopper rather then threading the rope through cable and webbing. anywho.... Just thought I... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Eldora : Hessie : Hessie Chimney (WI4 M5)
By: Brian Tessier When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I was able to drive all the way to the pullout below the route this morning and was surprised to find nothing.
Looks to be plenty of snow above but no ice.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Jon Griffin When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions as of Nov. 27th for Total abandon is pretty slim for the first pitch. Its like hardened snow with very little ice that is poorly bonded to the rock. I placed one screw on the first pitch, the rest rock gear. The second pitch had abundant ice as well as solid bonded ice in the chimney. The crux is thin as usual and had a nice deflated basketball size blob of ice on the wall for feet and is pretty manageable. The fixed nut is still there. We did it in 2 pitches with a 70m, placed 1 scre... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Horsetail Falls (WI4-5)
By: Julian Smith When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Horsetail Falls looks like it is in great shape now; solid ice from top to bottom. I looked at it from the highway, so seeing the bottom was kind of tough. However, there is not a speck of snow on it and it looks awesome!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Highway to Hell (WI4+)
By: Julian Smith When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Kudos to Robert Lee from Albuquerque for making all of the great anchors to get back down off of the route. The route is currently in great shape!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : The Road (WI3 M4)
By: Leo Paik When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice find, Ben and Eric! Thanks! 11/22/9 the conditions are bit different. Not much melting it looks like up there, it's cold, brrr. P1 & P3 as depicted above are basically buried in snow. With loose rock, snow over ice, we belayed the whole bugger, 7 pitches. P5 felt like the crux. Also, not sure how it was supposed to exit, but we followed footprints to the left and finished on a chimney 5.6 or M4. Also, the approach felt like 5 miles, the descent felt like 7.5 miles, count on an aerobic... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge
By: Phil Magistro When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a hike up there today to climb and check things out. We posted a short trip report with Glacier Gorge ice conditions photos here.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Pete J. Lardy When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route is still in as of Nov. 10. Next time I would end the first pitch at the three pins 30'-40' below the 2nd pitch crux. This makes for a better anchor and belay location. Good ice pro (screws) at the crux, limited elsewhere.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: John Maguire When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The torso sized block is still there and still ready to go. It's especially dangerous because the rope runs right on top of it when you clip the bolts before and after. I ended up bailing on the route at the thought of not wanting to kill my belayer. I would have been more than happy to try to clean it, but there were several parties climbing on the area directly underneath the route and it was far too risky. As it stands, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying anyone up or climbing this route mys... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: Scott Matz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions on Alexander's is thin yet. We only used 3 ice screws at the most. There was patches of soft snow in all pitches. Ice is forming quite well, but more rock than ice.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Kevin Wieczorek When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Nov 7th 2009 the fixed gear could use a little maintenance. Four bolts had loose hangers (spinners). The bolt on the crux of pitch one, the first bolt above the anchors for pitch one, and the two bolts exiting the dihedral. I didn’t have a wrench (maybe I should start bringing one), so I left them how I found them.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Sherman Climb (WI4)
By: clay meier When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a friend head down there today. Judging from pictures the third pitch is in but still a little dicey (November 1, 09).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Sherman Climb (WI4)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the first two pitches yesterday. Not much ice. The third pitch pillar needs about a month.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: PRRose When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : First Blood (5.8)
By: E Johnson When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6th bolt jiggles in the rock and the hanger flutters in the breeze (as of yesterday).
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Otto's Ladder (5.7 PG13)
By: mxq When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just checked out the pipe route.... Wonder what individual decided that it would be cool to leave blue webbing and thread the rappel rope directly through it.... Noticable burn marks on the webbing.... How much does a rap ring cost? Replaced top sling with orangish webbing and a rap ring....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a pair of prescription glasses during the approach to Conads. Left them at the TH under the sign.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon
By: Dougald MacDonald When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Total Abandon is in good shape and likely to get better over the next few days with warmer temps. Great route. Only two really good pitches, but those two are excellent. See http://themountainworld.blogspot.com for photos from October 15.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: OZONE When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice forming but nothing protectable yet.
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