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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Judge (5.12-)
By: Scott Bennett When: 17 minutes ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Very enjoyable for a route with about 30' of "business". With all the rests, small gear, and tricky face climbing, it feels more like climbing in Eldo than the Creek. Thanks for putting this one up!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Mugu Rock
By: Mulligan When: 1 hour ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice roadside diversion boulder with about a dozen cracks to choose from from 5.8 to 5.11. There are several bolts on top for anchors and an easy descent. The only downside to this boulder is the slick paint it is covered in that makes the jams and footholds somewhat insecure.
This boulder is right off the PCH (Hwy 1), and is easily visible as you drive by. From the north it is shortly after you pass Point Mugu NAS on the ocean (right) side of the road.
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Photo
By: Chris Craft When: 1 hour ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ow my brain.
Nah but seriously this is pretty awesome- it's good to see continued development.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Debbie Does CPR (5.11a)
By: BALDY When: 1 hour ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It might be a "one move wonder"....but it's a hell of a fun move.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : New Tomorrow (5.12a)
By: Chris Craft When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I remember taking two things away from this route:
The bottom seemed suuuper hard for the 12a rating. felt more like V6 to me. The rock was sweet though.
The top was teetering choss.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 75 Cairns Wall : Unknown (5.11)
By: Dustin B When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Think this one is called 'Dangling Chad', we found a broken plaque near the base and thats what it looked like, and also a name in the 1st. Bloom guide.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : William's Canyon : Caveman Wall
By: andrew smith When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a good place to climb.At all!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13)
By: EJM When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: good route, legit 13b
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge : 14. Sandstone Violence (V8)
By: Langlois When: 2 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Dobbe sent today! Also he repeated battle of the bulge, highly excecuted and strong men. Remo made a great repeat of SV on his first go. Good day
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.
This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the bolters have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (left of ewephoria) (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: JSH When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for helping to clear that up, Dana. The lined photo in the back of the 1991 guide also shows it going right. I'm going to amass all of the above comments and rewrite the route description.
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Location: MN : Lake County Road 6 Area (No... : Sawmill Creek Dome : Picnic Rock : The Turnstile Project (V11-12)
By: Chris Craft When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure if Jim cleaned it or not but I do know that Brian Camp came excruciatingly close to doing this on his first day. Suprised all you strong MN kids don't work on this more.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Photo
By: Eli Steiger When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Gunnison valley's true hard men!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Pee on Dee (5.8)
By: Eric Schmeer When: 4 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct start recommended. Pushes it up to 10. Then hit the roof direct as well.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Juji Fruit : Juji Fruit (5.12-)
By: adampeters When: 4 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Short. Good. Probably 12a if you have to place the fixed nut that is there now, but otherwise may be 11+, having a real hard time trying to grade this...
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: 5 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually Seth, the original name was War of the Walls given by Jay Smith. You can find it's last correct printing in the Harlin guide. Only later in subsequent guides (namely the Cottrell guide) was it mis-pronounced and well received as "Wall of the Worlds". That's strait from Jay Smiths mouth.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Highway to Hell (WI4+)
By: Jaaron Mankins When: 5 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the V-threads, they were everywhere! Great route in great shape. We always call this Route 66, but maybe H2H is a better alternative. Two 60m ropes make rapping each long pitch a breeze.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Champ's Route (5.7)
By: Jason Schmidt When: 6 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding, it is really pretty fun. Except the top, climbed it this fall, I to decided to head right, might have made it look like the way to go by clearing vegetation. Upon reflection and looking at a guide book, the route is meant to head left after the roof, so as fun as the jugs going straight up are, trend left. Done correctly it might be fun the whole time.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: 7 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow is your leg deeply behind the rope. Hope you didn't fall.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Beyond The Crucified
By: Smanson When: 7 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: In Troy Mayr's Southern California Sport Climbing Guide (3rd Edition), this easting facing crag is named "The Beyond Crag"
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Boy Scout Wall : Blitzo's Pile (5.5)
By: Smanson When: 7 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this route "BitchN' Moan" (5.7) or "Truculence" (5.6) from Troy Mayr's Southern California Sport Climbing Guide (3rd Edition)?
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Little Corner (5.6)
By: Peter Pitocchi When: 7 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it works well as three pitches
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Little Corner (5.6) : Photo
By: Peter Pitocchi When: 8 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: 3rd pitch Little Corner
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Little Corner (5.6) : Photo
By: Peter Pitocchi When: 8 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch Little Corner
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