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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (03) Toy Gun Show (5.5)
By: Jason Halladay When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I added another bolt today between what was the 2nd and 3rd bolts which should make line safer for those leading at their limit on this line.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater
By: Steve DiMarino When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a couple project routes going in here at the amphitheater. If you don't see bolts on the bottom half of a climb please don't even think about climbing it with cams or whatever may occur to you. The entire outer layer of this rock is extremely loose and hasn't been properly cleaned yet. You will certainly die if you attempt something stupid like climbing 40 feet to the first bolt. Please enjoy the completed routes instead, there are some good ones here.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (11a) Blue Shadows (5.8)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route on great rock. A must do if you are looking for something a little easier at Upper East Fork.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (16) Cookie Monster (5.8)
By: Beefy When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb wanders a lot, but has solid holds if you are willing to move around. Goes waaaay to the left above the first bolt, but comes back for a crux at the second bolt. Look for the holds, they are there!
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (14) Godzilla meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no need to dyno on this route, and you might want to sitdown and smell the flowers in the middle. Fun but easier movement above the crux section.
10 bolts total with one chain draw.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (11a) Monster Slayer (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is regretably tweaky on small pockets (at least for me, I'm not Mono) to a great rest. A strenuous traverse leads left to the obvious hold to clip the chain draw from. A great 4 move boulder problem (somewhere in the v6-7 range) gets one to a jug above. The climbing above is significantly easier.
If it was just the BP crux it would probably be 3-4 stars but the start detracts from the overall quality for me.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (06) True Grit (5.11d)
By: MattL When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yup, I agree - felt harder than 11d on the onsight attempt.
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