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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: DTP,
Cool video, and nice send.
On your second to last move, you put your right hand in the undercling scoop and then go for the jug.
I put my left hand into the same undercling and then go all the way to the top.
Lee,
Didn't think that at all; I was just offering up a different view.
Cheers,
Brett
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brett, You're right it is about finding the line or weakness, I only asked because I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing the crux, not that it really matters. I was just looking for something hard at El Rito, and was curious how other people did the top section. In this case if you follow the arete all the way up it puts you pretty far right of the anchors.
Video Beta: You'll notice that I definitly use the arete then move back onto the face.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Gnar Wall & Route Canal : Crest Chewel (5.9+)
By: manuel rangel When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone fixed the bolt last mentioned cause I didn't see that. I thought the start was the crux and quite runout for a nine leader. Maybe I just didn't find the right holds, as usual. After that, nothing but big holds, just hard to see at first cause of the shade.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Gnar Wall & Route Canal : Blackballed (5.10c)
By: manuel rangel When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area
By: manuel rangel When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice area and well worth a visit. The routes were fun and graded close enough to true for me. Very user friendly. The rock reminded me of a couple cobblestone areas in Spain.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brett, I don't think anyone is suggesting that you can or can't use the arete. As far as I'm concerned I'm just relating my experience on the route. I would agree that if you can reach the bolt line, or even move off of it and back onto it then you should feel free to use it, climbing is about enjoying yourself and freedom.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: BrettPierce When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like to think that climbing is about being smart and figuring out the line of weakness, not necessarily the line everyone else has done.
Staying directly on the arete, without stemming over, stays completely on the bolt line and is an easier version of the route. Why bother contriving this route when there is a more efficient way of doing it?
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Electric Pet Gri-Gri (5.11d)
By: Wa3lt When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason Chen and I had the FA of this. We spent a long time trying to clean the middle/upper section, but it's just not very good rock. I would probably avoid this one, as the quality of the moves doesn't make up for the scary rock.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Walt's Wall Waltz (5.7 PG13)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm. I thought the top part was harder than 5.8. Oh well, guess it wouldn't hurt a strong 5.8 leader to get on the sharp end... In any case, it's a great warm-up, and a beautiful place to start your day.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Cobble Wobble (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cobble up top to the left of the anchors is loose(!). This is the hold I use for clipping, and from the amount of chalk on it, seems like everybody else does, too. I pulled hard on it and couldn't get it to pry loose, but if you shake it, it definitely rattles. I drew an "X" on it with chalk, but this will wash off in the next rain/snow storm. Beware!
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : (05) Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: WiledHorse When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah. i also think there should be another bolt above the second. the holds that look like jugs are really not. i tested the fall a couple of times before getting to the 3rd bolt, and came close to decking. the moves getting to the 3rd are really not that hard, but hard enough that its not worth the risk of decking. if i am up there again and i remember to bring my drill, i will poke one in if no one minds. sounds like the FA, Jean, (above) wouldnt mind.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall
By: WiledHorse When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: these routes kick ass. fantastic and unique area. rito is a hiden gem!
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : (07) Stoker (5.12b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! I wasn't on it before the hold(s) in question broke, but I think I found the de-jugged spot Lee mentioned, near the last bolt... now there's just a crappy, slopey pinch. I thought it was the redpoint crux. You'll need good footwork and endurance to get you through with enough reserve for the final bit of steep climbing to the anchors.
I wouldn't be overly concerned about choss on this route, despite the history of broken holds. The holds along the bolt line (and I think all of the c... more >>
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : ... : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Depends on the butt. In this case, yes, it's an oxymoron (no offence to the leader in this pic!)
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that an oxymoron?
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : (03) Full Sail (5.10+)
By: chosspector When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description should read: Slightly left for 10a, direct for 10+.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : ... : Photo
By: chosspector When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great buttshot...
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : Brazos Cliffs
By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was tempted to just say, yes.
Since both approaches to the Wedge involve crossing private land and both have sets of watchful land owners, and since it's fairly wild country in here, publishing specific directions is problematic
Both approaches are pretty obvious.
We didn't have any trick beta. Nor do I think you could even come up with any. You hump in there, you climb, the descent is via the East side of the Wedge, it's a total walk down.
I have no idea of how to describe the approaches. ... more >>
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : (11) Packrat Dihedral (5.6)
By: Bryan T When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a Pink, Red, and Black Tri-Cam on the second pitch as well.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : Brazos Cliffs
By: Haj When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know how to get to The Wedge?
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