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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13) By: mobley When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, thanks for the info. I consider a route that gets TRed 99 times + for every one lead a TR though. Maybe I need to go back and look a little closer for good gear, I do know if you blew it before the first piece went in you may end up at the bottom of a very steep rocky hill after pounding into a ledge.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13) By: Brian When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just like most things climbing related in CT there seems to be a controversy. In this case a disagreement on how this climb is spelled: Dol Guldur - Dol Guldor. So it gets two entries? Seeing as though Ken Nichols first did it shouldn't his spelling (Dol Guldur) be the route name?
Mobley, This climb is not just a TR. It has been led trad many many times.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall : Zambezi Hatchet Head (5.8) By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top notch 5.8 with consistent technical moves for the first 3/4 of its length.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wiessner Slab (5.3) By: Pal Pocsi When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the line on the left does protect well but I did have trouble placing gear just before the top of the climb. Also, it was a little tough building an anchor at the top. I used some marginal cracks near the left corner and backed up with a bush/small tree. I didn't use the rappel anchor as it's way off to the right side and I didn't want to create a lot of rope drag or possible swing for the second.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock By: coolaid When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi,
Any thoughts on how quickly the Main Cliff dries? We are looking at going a day after a rain storm. We would be looking to lead the climbs and not really into wet crack. =)
Thanks for any thoughts. Brooke
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wet Wall (5.6) By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route as described here, but I think from the Falcon guidebook that the description given is for the Wet Wall - Knights Move linkup. Our book described the end to Wet Wall as finishing on the face right of the corner. Still a good climb with plenty of pro.
Placing gear at the start is not hard, but a fall there might still result in a sprained ankle.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wiessner Slab (5.3) By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack on the left side of the slab protects well.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : Main Cliff : Wishbone (5.7) By: pacoarg9 When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun lead...good pro from comfortable positions
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