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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Tuxedo Junction (5.7)
By: munge When: 11 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd this today. Climbs better than it looks. I took a direct line on TR. The first move of which is loose, but from there the direct is on good rock. probably 5.9ish move? Descent is made from Mussy hooks or it's also possible to down climb a crack on the east face at very easy 5th class (also an easy way to set up a TR on this and "who says I'm not".
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Penguello (5.7)
By: munge When: 11 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid rock. The 5.7 stays on the features on the right, I think, or straight up?? Belayer can be in sun in the morning even though the route is north facing.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great info Nick, thanks.
On that note, does anyone have any opinion on how truck the bolts are on the 2nd pitch of No Country for Old Men? I think they are 5/16" pound ins with SMC hangers, circa 1989.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Pangborn (5.9)
By: Tom Fralich When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dave - AHG is significantly harder. I thought that Ranger Ron might even be harder than Pangborn, since there's more sustained climbing.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : Bony Fingers (5.11b R)
By: Nick Barczak When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leave the stick clip at home. It's not necessary to reach the good placement after the first three bolts: just link 2 nuts together for extra reach. See the photo above of girth-hitched nuts.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: Nick Barczak When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As stated above, definitely string pitches 2 and 3 together. It's not only more fun, but it skips an awkward belay. Also, the first pitch of the knob climbing has what looks like a 2-bolt belay after only about 50 feet (not indicated on the topo). Don't stop here, it's pointless. Also, thanks to anybody who was involved in bolt replacement on this route. The belay at the top of P1 currently sports a nice shiny bolt in place of the old junker; two good bolts now reside there.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: mark maynard When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: craig service and myself hand drilled a 4 bolt 5.8 up this wall in 89': called it wadcutter, the base was really shot up
on the back of this formation is a three bolt arete to face we never completed
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What do the kids say these days????? Suck it?
The route is not worth the hike. Crumbly rock, mediocre climbing and considering your feet could cut loose at any time you'll be paying attention to the fall factor.
Second pitch is kinda cool when you go from the lie back to the jamming and calling it any less than 10c would be a sandbag. The gear is good but difficult to get in and again, with the crumbly feet you'd better have your game on.
Lewis messed up the rap lengths as previously report... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was kinda hunky. The rock is not very good (grainy) and the location and moves are just not that memorable. Very average to poor outing. There are much better routes to do in the Portal. I would not do it again.
That being said:
First pitch does have only 3 bolts. You can sling a flake or two, one at the start, and one just below the last bolt. Anchor is at two Mussy Hooks on a good stance. There are a couple of ankle breaker boulder problems mid pitch, so don't fall.... more >>
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