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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Fingertrip Variation (5.8+ PG13)
By: Greg G When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: whats the big deal with bringing 2 ropes? my theory is if the leader has to haul a rope up then it shouldnt be a big deal if the follower does. 2 raps are better than 3. 1 from the top of pebbles and dwf to beckeys top bolts then to the ground from there. no big deal.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Date with Fate (5.9)
By: Greg G When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i got a bomber #1 camalot on the ledge about 15' right of the treed ledge and ran out the easy 5.6 ground to the first micro in the flake. All in all a worthy pitch. Now I have to get on pebbles.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Christopher of the Everglad... (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: true. It would be easy to ASCA all of these anchors from that middle tier. Chris told me he drilled the entire thing on lead with a hand drill. Makes for some interesting clipping. This whole area is really fun and although this is supposed to be one of the 'easier' lines, the quality can't be denied. I found it plenty hard.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Christopher of the Everglad... (5.11b)
By: Ras Fett When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors could use some chains. There are 2 or 3 routes that share this anchor and the webbing has seen better days. Next time I will bring some chain if someone hasnt done it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang Left (5.11a)
By: Higinio Gonzalez When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things donīt quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
By: Brian in SLC When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.
Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: Davide De Masi When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is totally TRable from the top of half a finger. It's a really good, strenous route. I liked it a lot. Still don't have the balls to lead it though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Prune Face Slab : Straight On For You (5.9+ R)
By: Moonfri When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took a weird variation off right then tried to come back left and got stuck on a 20 foot runout in no man's land. My only options were to take the fall w/o tring to make the 4th clip or to fall trying. In my top three most freaked out climbing experiences I've ever had. I ended up pulling through and keeping my cool but seriously....scary and as a result so so soooo freakin fun. Great route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: steve santora When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rapping off east with a single seventy meter--- 3 raps is perfect. then a slog down the debris.....
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, a single set from BD .5 to 3 and a 5 or old 4.5 is all you need. Don't haul doubles up there, there are no good stances to place in the undercling/lieback sections. It's a place and punch it for a while type of line.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: steve santora When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, finally got up there. We did 6 or 7 pitches of Tingeys Terror and finish just left of the rap bolts for the flakes....We top roped the flakes which pumped Mike and I pretty good. Crux seemed to be the start of the second part. then liebacked the flake. Awesome Smiles all around/ It looks to eat 1's 2's 3's and 4's; for pro...bring a few of each can't wait to get back there. steve
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Half-A-Finger (5.9+)
By: Alec When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really isn't sustained or strenuous at all. There are excellent stances for placing bomber pro before each crux. Ten is dead on -- great for a 5.10 sport climber learning to place gear.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: Carl Rene Pelletier When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a pair of climbing shoes at the base of Callitwhatyouplease today....Saturday,October 10th....around 3:30 pm or so. Feel free to email me if you are missing them.....
carl.r.pelletier@gmail.com
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Heaven's Gate Area
By: STH When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I happend to think they were GREAT routes. In fact, I think the author of these future classics should get a medal.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Heaven's Gate Area
By: Greg G When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like there are multiple bolt lines above the last pitch of school room. I climbed what looked to be the longest of the slab lines and could see 3 seperate anchor systems for god knows what from the slab i was on. Non of these climbs seem to be any harder than 5.6 and that would be for one move only.
From what I saw there are:
3 bolt lines all right next to each other and all super easy (why are they even there?)
3 bolted anchors, one at the top of the long slab, one down and to the r... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Craig Martin When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daniel,
It sounds like you where definitely off route. There is no fixed anchor on the 1st pitch of Mind Blow, unless that has changed, so I don't know where you where. Schoolroom is a wandering route and if it was your first time up there, it would not be hard to get off route. If your route finding skills are crap as you suggest, you might want to consider carrying a topo for longer routes that you are unfamiliar with. Glad it turned out alright.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: daniel c When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the sun setting, my partner and I decided to bail at what I think was the anchor for Mind Blow. If this is the case, I wonder about the finger crack of P3... ie, is it really a beautiful 5.6 finger crack or a 5.8+ R finger flare? Perhaps erosion has finally taken its toll on this route? Yes, this is my first time climbing in Utah so not sure if its just me and my crap route finding skills but I was hard pressed to find a 5.6 finger crack. I felt comfortable with the general grading sche... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: daniel c When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 - Straightforward if you are comfortable jamming. I saw a strong sport climber take a fall on this section due to lack of jamming skills
P2 - Easy low angle crack to a steeper, left pushing hand crack, flaring in sections making jamming impossible. Agree with Taylor - key for me was to smear left foot (yikes! exposure!), jam right foot, walk up hands, repeat. Don't clip that manky old fixed cam!
Great route. Have fun with it!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang Left (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.
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