Latest Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Ride the Lightning (5.11)
By: Alec When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, much harder start to the Virus. Climbs slightly overhanging rock up four bolts with edges, crimps and some sweet ringlocks. Don't even bother with the first bolt.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ooooooooooooh, the "no wonder you hated it, you're not strong enough to climb there". Silly you, I broke holds and took the ride with them, doesn't have much to do with the climbing.
Sorry if you veiwed the post as elitist drivel. It was not meant to come across as that.
What I was getting at is that Devils Castle is no place to mess up and to have fallen off a bunch of times up there is obviously not a good thing. You are very lucky and I'm happy that you fell close(I'm guessing)to the bolts ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route keeps 2 stars for length, position, exposure and the fact that you can get cold in the middle of the summer. The 4 mp.com stars are misleading, it's a Ruckman's 1 star, or a rock canyon 1.6 stars. It's OK when compared with other Castle's routes and as Brian mentions if you look at it within all of LCC it gets a couple of bombs.
Let's agree to disagree for now, I'll go back up there to do Evil Eye and maybe amend my post.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well 2 stars = "a good route" so yes, that's being generous. I'm glad to get the input because I did feel a bit leery about giving the route 4 stars. James gave Black Streak 4 stars, so I tried it with Gothic! ... One could in fact argue that the Castle, with all of it's looseness shouldn't get any stars... after all, you're climbing on Satan's turf.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You have taken whippers up there?!, its a good job Brian gives soft grades or you really might get in to some serious trouble.
Like James said, you have been a very lucky(or unlucky)boy.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two stars for a route you don't even like seems generous + a dozen times beaned, you're a lot more of a rock magnet than most, I suspect. Serious # of hits, glad you've survived.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Zac Robinson When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: really?
I have only done the Black Streak and Gothic Pillar, but I thought that Gothic Pillar was amazingly better than I expected. Less Shitty ledge traverses and a few pitches of actual good solid climbing. I was stoked on it. Acually ran into BSmott on the summit and tried to lie to him about the quality, but couldn't pull it off.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Boissal When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, I think the route is not as good as some of the others you've put on the Castle. Based on the star rating I was hoping to be in for another Shadow of the Blade style route... It was different. Still enjoyable in a perverse kind of way though.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Devils Castle is adventure climbing and you could get the chop up there.
You should expect "Loose sandy jugs, detached blocks, ledge fall potential" etc. To moan about the stars, grades and rock on any of those routes is stupid.
For what its worth I would give the route 3.2 stars because just like the beer I like to have or do one once in awhile.
Keep up the good work Brian.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes that don't get climbed very often tend to build up choss. Guess I'd better lessen my star rating giving all of the whining going on here.
|
Results To Frame 
RSS Feed
