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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. That is exactly what I was hoping to hear. To clarify my previous post, I do not condone chopping bolts. I think it is equally destructive (as far as the rock is concerned) to remove a bolt as it is to place one. I was merely pointing out that Roger had a valid point in saying that the FA should have been contacted prior to the retrobolt.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For this specific climb, please do not remove the controversial bolt.
The first ascentionist (Tom MacFarlane) has provided his guidance. While he was not communicated with prior to the retro-bolting it is Tom's preference that no further destruction of the rock occur by removal of the additional bolt.
Feel free to skip the 3rd bolt, and/or place protection in the horizontal crack, if you want to climb Thorazine as it was originally established.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I agree with you J. Albers that Thorazine is a better route with the bolt in place, I think Roger brings up a valid point about contacting the FAs before the modifying their routes. I think it is disrespectful to retrobolt a route that has a recorded FA party (Tom and Brian) without first soliciting their permission. Please respect the vision of the FAs by not tampering with their hard work behind their backs.
To be clear - this is not a personally directed toward J. Albers. I'm sure you... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (07) No Exit (5.12a)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.
I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (16) Polly's Crack (5.8+)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (17) Thief in Time (5.12d)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could never for the life of me figure out where this route went. It's pretty hard, depending on where you go, but only for a move or two, and there's no well-defined line. Basically, a mediocre boulder problem separated by choss below and easy climbing above.
This is another early 90s route bolted by folks who *really* wanted to climb 5.13 but couldn't find anything hard enough in WR. They ended up bolting anything with hard moves they could find, quality be damned. I don't think I've every s... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (04.5) Unknown Bolted Face (5.11c)
By: Scott Beguin When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA was Mike Schillachi late 80's.
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